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Blonde Marauder


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14 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Yep, hand routers are in a wibbly-wobbly world of their own sometimes.

Sometimes they are indeed, it is our duty to fight the wibble and the wobble, 

 

14 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Using a jar is a clever idea should you ever have to leave a half full glass for other tasks. Screw the lid on, put it into the refridgerator and enjoy when you're free to continue that tastiful task.

They are handy that way, and I like the nice patterns on the glass, I'll post one of my jars with a handle this time.

So I ordered new short router bits and hitting the buy button instantly jogged my memory of where I put my old ones. This one apparently is a dado clean out bit, I don't know how it cleans out dados but it is great for routing 6 mm mdfIMG_7146.thumb.JPG.5c3f366bfef6dd07c2a9f14967e9dbeb.JPG

 

So I routed the baseplate of the paddle head neck template

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Beautiful weather in the land of Oz today

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I cut two 6 mm dowels to 21 mm long, 

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I put some double sided tap on the neck bottom and stuck it down then some on the top.

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I put the dowels into the template holes and then put the template on the neck, the dowels went into the channel and aligned it as I stuck the template down.

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Then I set up a balance beam to the same height as the top of the template, This means the router is fully supported and can't wobble back and forward. Then the sides got routed.

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Then the heel, nearly finished.

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On 7/6/2021 at 9:41 AM, ScottR said:

Mason jars and beer rock!

SR

I've known the second one was awesome for a long time but only recently thought that about the first. A few years back a friend gave me a pack of 6 of those mason jar glasses, at the time I thought, jam jars with handles, whatever, and put them in a cupboard and forgot about them. About a year later a couple of friends came out of my kitchen with their beers in those mason jars, and I thought that the jars with handles took on a whole new appeal with beer in them, and that mason jars and beer do indeed rock!

 

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My new router bits (yellow and blue) arrived, a set like this is good for taking off small amounts of wood at a time and avoiding tearing great chunks out of your project. I have noticed some posts concerned with safety and I hope for people new to routing I am showing you safe ways of sculpting with the whirling blades.

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I router planed the fretboard down to 8 mm thick and sanded the new plane on a sandpaper strip on glass, glass is dead flat and a great way to get your fretboard accurately flat. The next step is to get one side and the end of the fretboard straight and perpendicular so it lines up in the fret slot cutting jig. I routed against two perpendicular edges, The headstock end only has a tiny bit needing to come off.

 

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As usual I have a balance beam to stop router wobble, and I took off 1.5 mm each pass. A one mm thick plastic chopping board makes a good shim in an installation like this.

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Here's the headstock template fixed to a paddle, Just look at that dirty big chunk carved out of the Gibson neck around the truss rod bolt, Gibson headstocks are so weak, they snap if you sneeze on them too hard.

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before that gets used for shaping I drew the outline on the headstock, again dowels aligned the bottom of it with the channel

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This current neck is being made with what was left over after making this neck

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And the planes to attach the wings were not symetrical so everything could fit

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Good thing that just like the pointy headstock, it's getting a veneer over it, nude headstock scarfs are not that pretty at the best of times.

I trimmed the headstock up a bit with a saw and a rasp

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Listening to Thrill by Band-Maid, Kanami Tono is a great guitarist, I think this is one of the best drop D riff songs and if you can play this song with its very interesting timing, just like Malcolm Young, you have a good right hand

 

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Drilled in the machine head tunnels today, I could not overcome my fusspot gene that does not like splinter exit wounds even though I know they are going to be covered by the tuners. The bushings are 8 mm. I drilled 1.5 mm holes through the template and out the back of the headstock, The point in the brad point drill bit is going to follow those from each side.

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Drilling about 9 mm into the top.

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Then I flipped the head over stuck the brad point into the 1.5 mm exit hole and drilled in untill I felt it just meet, Little doughnuts fell out of the holes.

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Next step is to rout that stuff that does not look like a flying V headstock away.

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My paranoia goes one further than that. I drill my tuner holes through with the minor diameter of the post, then use the opposing pinhole left by the brad/spur to locate a larger bit for the bushing. That is absolutely only something you can attempt with a pillar drill and a clamped workpiece of course.

 

41 minutes ago, Muzz said:

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Damnit, even pareidolia is racist these days.
"Enough is enough! I have had it with these monkey fighting racists on this Monday to Friday plane!!!!"

 

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22 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Damnit, even pareidolia ...........

 

 

How dare you assume that mimetolith's species 🤣 it is very obviously a New Holland wide mouth frog Ranoidea novaehollandiae

 

Tapped in dowels to fix the template to the headstock, also chucked in 4 tabs of DS tape

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This installation had a few components

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The paddle got supported by a chock clamped on, I really enjoy routing I find it so calming

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Nearly finished

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And that is all the routing done for this project

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22 hours ago, Prostheta said:

I love your mental setup. However mad it gets, if it works, it's stable, it's safe and it's reliable. It's gold.

I had exactly the same thought, but after a bit of a delay. As I was setting it up I was looking down on it, and from that viewpoint it looked quite neat and tidy, it was only when I stood back and looked at it from the side I thought, woah, that is mental 😃 

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I will sand out the little ridge where the two templates met

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The colour of the wood in this shot is a trick of the light, but I really like it

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Cheers Scott, I got the table from a local importer who got it from Bali, I am not sure what kind of wood it is, it might be Monkeypod or Indonesian Teak. Amazingly it has a fifth leg, right in the middle, I have never seen that before. It replaced this table which has been moved to the basement,

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I saved the top from an antique table that only had two legs, each with long base at 90 degrees to the leg, and the top was broken along one of the joins. I rejoined the top stripped all the dark brown finish off of it and and made a new base for it out of Tasmanian oak.

I am looking forward to using my home made fret slotting jig again soon,

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If you are interested in manual photography this site is a great tutorial https://www.photographytalk.com/beginner-photography-tips/the-exposure-triangle-explained

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On 7/22/2021 at 6:47 AM, Muzz said:

If you are interested in manual photography this site is a great tutorial https://www.photographytalk.com/beginner-photography-tips/the-exposure-triangle-explained

I actually took photography in college, back in the dark ages. I learned all kinds of dark room tricks......which are completely obsolete now. The new method is much less messy and smelly.

SR

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17 hours ago, ScottR said:

I actually took photography in college, back in the dark ages. I learned all kinds of dark room tricks......which are completely obsolete now. The new method is much less messy and smelly.

SR

Wasn't it fun though putting the print in the tray and seeing the photo appear by magic, it could get messy I agree, that developing fluid never came out of any clothes it touched. There still is something about analog photos that I love.

I played this guitar for a while today, the photo was taken 5 years ago.

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I also got a bit of work done on the fretboard, I marked out the centre line and 12 fret posi.

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Cut a few windows in the fretboard map, aligned it and stuck it down.

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The first cut.

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I stuffed up the 6th fret, that will need to be filled with a veneer strip and recut.

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Everything else was OK.

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6 hours ago, Muzz said:

Wasn't it fun though putting the print in the tray and seeing the photo appear by magic, it could get messy I agree, that developing fluid never came out of any clothes it touched. There still is something about analog photos that I love.

Totally.

The darkroom was a blast. Just like building guitars, there is a lot of charm and satisfaction in doing it by hand.

SR

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18 hours ago, Prostheta said:

It's not the biggest problem to fix. Could be worse, right?

It certainly could be worse, It's about a 1 on the boo-boo to fubar scale, Lesson learnt - don't try and cut slots in fading daylight. I have seen some people fill a slot with with super glue and wood dust,

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I think that gluing in actual wood is a better technique. I went to Bunnings today and bought this to try out,

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If it looks OK on the rock maple I'll finish the neck with it. I also treated myself to a new try-square

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I'll use that to draw the fret slot in the right place.

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Next time you're in the store, buy a carbide-tipped metal scribe. These are ubiquitous China-import crap, but they do a great job of scribing lines tightly against the blade of your square. A bit of chalk dust increases visibility. I don't know this company, however the scribes I have are the same as this from here:

https://www.aussiesapphire.com.au/tungsten-carbide-tip-steel-scribe-with-pocket-clip

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On 7/29/2021 at 8:45 PM, Prostheta said:

Next time you're in the store, buy a carbide-tipped metal scribe. These are ubiquitous China-import crap, but they do a great job of scribing lines tightly against the blade of your square. A bit of chalk dust increases visibility. I don't know this company, however the scribes I have are the same as this from here:

https://www.aussiesapphire.com.au/tungsten-carbide-tip-steel-scribe-with-pocket-clip

That's gone onto my shopping list, the grip on it looks better than on my awl. The crook slot has been filled and leveled, it will get recut sometime on the weekend.

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This is the body about 9 years ago at the lovely Bayview Hotel, Gladesville, at this angle you can't see the old open book headstock neck.

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And this is what it looked like before I decided to deconstruct it and play guitar Mr Potato Head by replacing the neck

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