capnjack Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 ok i got an S series with a cracked neck if anyone has repaired one before.............. look at this photo and tell me if you think its repairable..... www.hxc.com/evelynn/5d_1.jpg ill appreciate comments! capnjack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STAHLER Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 There is a tutorial on this type of repair in the main site. There looks to be a peace missing on the pic just above the screws, have you still got the peace ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Just curious, any idea how that happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capnjack Posted February 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 i bought for cheap off ebay like that.... and no i dont have that peice. which sucks. what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 The missing piece can be filled, I would use a wood epoxy filler though to be safe like the "Good for Wood" made by Loctite, the rest can be repaired, just a matter of taking your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 If its the one I was watching it was a fairly nasty crack. Good buy all things considered. looks like you could almost replace the whole headstock if your ambitious. I think that neck would take a lot to make permanently stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 For all the work involved in re setting the fingerboard I'd recut the scarf joint and make a new headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 Don't take this 100% seriously, because pictures can be deceiving. But I might take those floyd nut screws out, and if the t-rod nut access is at the headstock, I would take the nut off, wax the threads well, screw it back on the t-rod all the way, maybe force the crack open a bit more, work some wood glue or epoxy well into the crack, clamp the crack closed with whatever goofy set-up I would have already prepared for. Then after it's dry, I might use a big forstner bit to drill out the missing area, and make a tight fitting maple plug to fit in the hole. But it seems there's some truss-rod metal right there at the missing area ? Forstner bit wouldn't be so good then. I might try to rout a perfect round hole with the dremel router. Just some ideas, cuz not all headstock area cracks are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 First I'd superglue the crack and get it solid. Then I'd make sure the fretboard wasn't lifting. If it was I'd secure that too. Then I'd route a channel similar or equal to the size of that bubinga strip from the end of the strip at the scarf joint to around the E tuner, and fill that with a strip. You could match the bubinga or use maple. The channel would be uniform depth, flush with that rod anchor. I'd use bubinga if it were me, and I'd run the channel to about the 2nd fret so it made it look like the bubinga strip just went along into the headstock. Plus I'd like the channel/fill strip to cross the scarf joint line, to reinforce it, rather than end right on it. If you did it right you could really hide the evidence of any work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 From what I've seen 90% of the time you can actually see the truss rod from the countersunk floyd nut screw cavity's even on an perfectly good neck when it comes to Ibanez's. Thats always been a weak point about them on the wizard style design and profiles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saber Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 From what I've seen 90% of the time you can actually see the truss rod from the countersunk floyd nut screw cavity's even on an perfectly good neck when it comes to Ibanez's. Thats always been a weak point about them on the wizard style design and profiles. That is the case with the S370 neck I got on EBAY that I did the scalloping and mirror inlays on, but it wasn't the case on my original 540S neck where the truss rod seemed to be more precisely centered between the two screw holes. Maybe it's one of the differences between the quality of japanese and korean Ibanez's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 That is the case with the S370 neck I got on EBAY that I did the scalloping and mirror inlays on, but it wasn't the case on my original 540S neck where the truss rod seemed to be more precisely centered between the two screw holes. Maybe it's one of the differences between the quality of japanese and korean Ibanez's. Exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saber Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 That is the case with the S370 neck I got on EBAY that I did the scalloping and mirror inlays on, but it wasn't the case on my original 540S neck where the truss rod seemed to be more precisely centered between the two screw holes. Maybe it's one of the differences between the quality of japanese and korean Ibanez's. Exactly Are the rolling eyes about Ibanez or is there something wrong about my post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.