mistermikev Posted June 3, 2021 Report Share Posted June 3, 2021 so... just finishing up my final run for my tele. going very well. i had originally planned an electro socket for the jack, but early on I realized that wasn't going to work. my first run - body is only 1.125" thick at edge.. this worked but wouldn't fit a push/pull in the ctrl cav... just not enough room so my second run I expanded that out to 1.325. electro sockets are just shy of 1" around at the widest... .87" thick at depth. doesn't leave a lot of wood on top/bottom esp when you consider the 1/2" roundover at the back! so... could do a football jack... that would be the easiest solution. I've seen these acoustic guitar jacks that are like the barrel jacks, but have coarse threads that look like they would hold in wood. that's an option. I'm kind of leaning this way because they are fairly discrete afa look. would be easy to recess... and there is approx 3/4 of wood so countersunk it'd prob have ~5/8" to grab. normal barrel jack won't work as there is no way to get the nut on (would be inside the f hole cavity. thought about trying to fit a strat jack plate on the back side... the positioning of it might be ltd as there is a lot going on inside the body... probably not worth the effort. if I was going this route I should have gone there in the design. penny for your thoughts? which one do you think would 'look' the best? anyone use one of these coarse threaded jacks? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 4, 2021 Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 Interesting idea, hadn't considered it myself. It'd have a pretty tidy and unique look, certainly not something I've seen elsewhere. 'Chasing' the thread into the timber might pose some challenges if you're using the jack itself to do it. You'd also need to decide how best to handle the wiring on the jack before you install it. Assuming you pre-solder the wires to it before installation (no access through the f-holes?) the wiring is going to naturally twist up as you screw the jack into the body. Perhaps pre-anti-twist the wiring before insertion to allow it to naturally untwist back to equilibrium as it's screwed in? Are they meant to have a nut on the back as well, or are they designed to directly thread the timber like an oversized wood screw? What about a small rectangular mounting plate with a standard open socket, like PRS or Gibson? The plate itself could really be any shape you like, including the football profile you mention. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 39 minutes ago, curtisa said: Interesting idea, hadn't considered it myself. It'd have a pretty tidy and unique look, certainly not something I've seen elsewhere. 'Chasing' the thread into the timber might pose some challenges if you're using the jack itself to do it. You'd also need to decide how best to handle the wiring on the jack before you install it. Assuming you pre-solder the wires to it before installation (no access through the f-holes?) the wiring is going to naturally twist up as you screw the jack into the body. Perhaps pre-anti-twist the wiring before insertion to allow it to naturally untwist back to equilibrium as it's screwed in? Are they meant to have a nut on the back as well, or are they designed to directly thread the timber like an oversized wood screw? What about a small rectangular mounting plate with a standard open socket, like PRS or Gibson? The plate itself could really be any shape you like, including the football profile you mention. thank you sir... very much appreciate the feedback. so... have considered the wiring. Originally I planned an electro socket where I'd drill the outside holes and then use a long bit to break through the inner chamber wall. I planned to pre-wire the output using 2 conductor push back wire plus a seperate ground, and then stiffen it with shrink tube. my path is illustrated below - note that the third ouline in is actual guitar.has approx 3/4" of inside material to go through, then a ~2" gap to the inner ctrl cavity wall. good call on the pre-twist. good idea. worste case I could get a tweasers through the f hole but I think if I just put enough length on the wire, hold the guitar upside down, thread wire, grab it from the control cav side, then thread in the jack I should be ok. the bigger concern, is the threading. I don't know if my tap set would have anything for such coarse thread. I would have real concerns about splitting the wood right there w/o the proper sized hole. I'm thinking I can make the hole the size of the jack + half the thread, wax the threads, thread it, unscrew it out, then put ca glue on edge to fill in the thread gap and thread back in. wax should allow it to be removed later. the football or square plate is def an less risky option. then again I'd want it countersunk and doing that at this point... would likely involve chisels or a jig... so more work... and I'm not sure it would look as nice as the threaded jack. further, if I traverse these uncharted waters - I could see using it a lot more. I don't like having to put a nut on the other side of a jack like that. have to factor in a flat spot on the inside... just seems more complicated than it should be. just thinking out loud here. thank you for stirring the pot! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 for the record... found the tap size and ordered one, and ordered the jacks too. i have zero tap experience so q: when they say 9/16-12 tap... do you cut a 9/16" hole first and then tap? or do you have to cut a hole smaller than 9/16 to tap? anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 4, 2021 Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 2 hours ago, mistermikev said: when they say 9/16-12 tap... do you cut a 9/16" hole first and then tap? or do you have to cut a hole smaller than 9/16 to tap? I'd say the best option is to take your calipers and measure. There might be a consensus about how to tell the measurements but you never know... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 4 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: I'd say the best option is to take your calipers and measure. There might be a consensus about how to tell the measurements but you never know... is solid advice for sure. given that it's going to be mostly ash... should be pretty forgiving but I'd hate to find out I'm wrong!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 4, 2021 Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 7 hours ago, mistermikev said: 9/16-12 tap. The tap size usually refers to the nominal outer diameter of the thread edges on the tap itself, so the hole you need to drill for a 9/16" tap has to be fractionally smaller. Googling 'tap drill diamter' is usually all I do in those situations as I can never remember what size drills are required for each tap without the help of some kind of table or chart. A drill bit of 31/64" diameter is apparently the correct size for a 9/16" tap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2021 Just now, curtisa said: The tap size usually refers to the nominal outer diameter of the thread edges on the tap itself, so the hole you need to drill for a 9/16" tap has to be fractionally smaller. Googling 'tap drill diamter' is usually all I do in those situations as I can never remember what size drills are required for each tap without the help of some kind of table or chart. A drill bit of 31/64" diameter is apparently the correct size for a 9/16" tap. thank you sir. exactly the answer I needed. wasn't really sure how to phrase it to get proper answer from google. well, for better or worse... ima gonna gyv dis a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 10 hours ago, mistermikev said: for the record... found the tap size and ordered one, and ordered the jacks too. i have zero tap experience so q: when they say 9/16-12 tap... do you cut a 9/16" hole first and then tap? or do you have to cut a hole smaller than 9/16 to tap? anyone know? No the tap should have instructions as to what size drill bit to use. If not then look it up. there are plenty of Tap to drill bit size charts on the net. Some wil list if wood vs metal. another option would be to insert a thick walled brass tube glued in then tap that. mk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 5 minutes ago, MiKro said: No the tap should have instructions as to what size drill bit to use. If not then look it up. there are plenty of Tap to drill bit size charts on the net. Some wil list if wood vs metal. another option would be to insert a thick walled brass tube glued in then tap that. mk well that's a nice idea (brass tube). Good option to know about, thanks for that. I think I'll try the simple approach first on my 'test' build and depending on how secure that sits... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 19 minutes ago, mistermikev said: well that's a nice idea (brass tube). Good option to know about, thanks for that. I think I'll try the simple approach first on my 'test' build and depending on how secure that sits... Or use thick walled aluminum tubing. Brass would allow you solder to it if needed. mk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 1 hour ago, MiKro said: Or use thick walled aluminum tubing. Brass would allow you solder to it if needed. mk well shielding shouldn't be an issue as I'm using push back wire to carry the signal from the jack into the ctrl cav which is shielded. so... yeah aluminum would work. good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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