simon1138 Posted June 9, 2021 Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 hello i recently got a second hand burgess bbs20 table top bandsaw. with a thin blade, i think it is about 6mm. i tried cutting a straight line through some scrap and got a poor response. the blade twisted and wobbled through it. it seems to only have one speed. i am not sure what i can do about it. i dont want to have to buy another band saw. is this not capable of the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 9, 2021 Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 A thin blade is ideal for curves, a wide for cutting straight. That said, the workshop saw only has a 10 mm blade or something like that and it can cut full width/length veneers of a fretboard blank! So it's also much about adjusting and the quality of the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon1138 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 13 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: A thin blade is ideal for curves, a wide for cutting straight. That said, the workshop saw only has a 10 mm blade or something like that and it can cut full width/length veneers of a fretboard blank! So it's also much about adjusting and the quality of the blade. thansk for the response, what size blade and teeth number would be best for cutting a scarf joint please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 9, 2021 Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 I don't know about band saw tpm's but I guess for guitar building you won't need a rough cutting log blade. Before running to the shop I'd learn the basics in making the saw do its best no matter what blade you have. There's several guides, both videos and illustrated sites. This seems to tell you quite a lot: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/band-saws/bandsaw-tune-up and this one may tell something more: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/how-to-adjust-a-bandsaw-blade.aspx 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 the most important part of a bandsaw is how the blade rides the wheel. could not get mine to cut straight even w a 1/2 blade until I learned that the kerf should ride the apex of the wheel/tire. once I got that set... easy peasy. that said... a smaller tabletop bandsaw is only going to cut straight on maybe 1" material. at least that was my experience. get the tension right, get the blade riding the wheel right, get the bearings just right... should have no prob going straight with most (sharp!) blades thru most thinner materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 This video might be of use to you. Looks like the BBS20 is one of those three-wheel variants, which are notorious for being able to set up to work reliably. They're also harder on blades as the small wheels and multiple turns the blade has to make as it goes around cause the blade to flex more than on a large two-wheel bandsaw, which can lead to premature stretching and breaking of the blade. Wobbling blade and unable to make straight cuts suggests your primary problem is insufficient blade tension. It also doesn't look like the cutting capacity is very tall, so you might struggle to fit a neck through it to cut a scarf joint. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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