simon1138 Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 Hello, I have finished(?) painting my guitar and now decided to go with polyurethane spray can finish. I gave it a coat and left it to dry which didn't seem to take too long. It does feel slightly tacky and as though there may be some orange peel. What is best here? I have looked around and one video says 1000 grit wetted paper to sand in a circular motion? I read the instructions on the can which don't mention sanding between coats. It mentions a few layers of thin coats with 20-30 minutes between coats. Does not mention sanding or grit of paper. what can i expect from this spray can polyurethane? I pressed my thumbnail into it and chipped off a bit of paint. I keep hitting a wall. There seems to be conflicting information about how to do things. For now I want a guitar to play so this one is going to get built. What is the best thing I can do to get a finish without taking off the current polyurethane and starting again. Please don't mention buying stuff from stewmac. Thanks Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 If I'm right, the 20-30 min drying time is for the poly to become stiff so it won't run. Way back I recall having used some rattle can paint where the label told to spray several thin coats with a similar drying time in between to avoid runs. At the class we were taught to spray the 2k "wet on wet", meaning that the finish had to be tacky but no longer runny before applying a new layer in order to get a thick uniform layer. If that was not an option, the finish had to properly cure/dry for a week or longer and sanded matte before applying a new layer. Spray can products can be tricky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 @Bizman62 is correct. YOU should spray poly in the way they advise on the can so as it is to stay somewhat wet without runs, it is a film type clear coat. It is unlike lacquer, which is a solvent type and will blend/etch itself chemically with the previous layer. Poly and 2k must dry if not adhering to the correct procedure. Then you have to sand it so there are scratches /sanding marks (tooth) for the next layer to adhere to. ( not the best method as it may peel later). mk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon1138 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 3 hours ago, Bizman62 said: If I'm right, the 20-30 min drying time is for the poly to become stiff so it won't run. Way back I recall having used some rattle can paint where the label told to spray several thin coats with a similar drying time in between to avoid runs. At the class we were taught to spray the 2k "wet on wet", meaning that the finish had to be tacky but no longer runny before applying a new layer in order to get a thick uniform layer. If that was not an option, the finish had to properly cure/dry for a week or longer and sanded matte before applying a new layer. Spray can products can be tricky! bizman what class did you do? thanks for the help. i will see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 19 minutes ago, simon1138 said: bizman what class did you do? It's a municipal guitar building course during wintertime in the town workshop, tutored by Master Luthier Veijo Rautia of Rautia Guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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