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Couple superstrats coming along


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Some progress again, don't have as much time for building with the wife on holiday with me. 😀

Glued the top on, went perfectly with no gaps! Did a 45 degree bezel Blackmachine style on the back of mine.

Some color testing today too. Mine will have the bottom left brown/orange top and brown/red back.

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A bit more progress. Test fit some of the hardware for #2, so I'll know the space requirements. Friend wanted controls laid out on a square for his, and a recessed jack cavity.

Cut the binding channel on mine, and glued the binding on. Channel ended up too deep, looks like my flat top wasn't so flat after all and the place I used for adjusting the router table was at a lower height. Oh well, I'll sand it down to meet the binding.

Also added that hype Blackmachine style bezel on the front of #2. :D

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Edited by nakedzen
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Sanded the top flush to the binding, scraped the binding with some card scrapers, filled gaps with acetone goop.

Tried some 0000 steel wool on my color test and added one layer of oil, very happy with the result. I'm aiming to the ESP dark brown sunburst look, pretty close imho!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of progress on the necks. Careful measuring, made doubly sure the bandsaw is 0.00 degrees off. :D

Cut the binding channel on the fretboard, installed the binding with acetone this time that I like much more than CA glue. 

Did the truss rod channel and headstock binding channel, installed the binding in one piece with the help of a heatgun. 120*C setting was enough for spaghetti effect.

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19 hours ago, nakedzen said:

installed the binding with acetone this time that I like much more than CA glue. 

Interesting; heard of acetone for cleanup & filling gaps but how do you install with it? Wouldn’t think it holds all that well or could deform it; are you melting the inner surface to the wood somehow?

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Acetone melts the binding material to a mess that sticks to wood like glue. As you've already heard, it can be used for filling gaps which -when you think about it - involves attaching a piece of binding on the guitar. The main difference is the length used.

All that said, there's several plastic materials used for binding. I've heard of acetate, ABS and PVC. They all may melt to acetone but I'm not 100% sure. There's also plastics like HDPE that don't melt, otherwise there would be no caps on the acetone bottles! So a little testing is recommendable before the actual binding.

 

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Yes, if acetone melts the binding then it becomes its own cement. The mating wood surface needs to be sufficiently rough for this to work as strongly as possible though; any scorching from a poor router bit and stuff like that can make the surface less "grabby". I prefer not to try and fill gaps with binding melted in acetone as it shrinks back a lot; binding in solvent is a lot less dense, so when the solvent migrates out it leaves behind a less than perfect fill. It works half of the time I think, so useful in absolute emergencies.

Definitely, test always. I couldn't agree more, even if I don't do it myself as much as I should 😉

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5 hours ago, JAK said:

Interesting; heard of acetone for cleanup & filling gaps but how do you install with it? Wouldn’t think it holds all that well or could deform it; are you melting the inner surface to the wood somehow?

Yeah like you see in the pic, it's first molded with heat and lots of tape to be tight in the channel. Then I dropped small amounts of acetone with a pipette to the edge where it drips between the binding and the wood.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress, did the neck cavities for the flame maple, and bellycut and pickup routes for the green guitar.

Did the bellycut rough depth with the pillar drill and forstner bit then orbit sander 80-120-240 grit. I think I prefer this method over anything else I've done before.

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I was wondering about the same! The sparse grain pattern leads to thinking that the pale growth ring stripes are much softer than the darker ones which makes sanding a PITA.

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Latest progress. Thankfully the tuners were a bit different shaped for this guitar so they fit in-line. Testing out truss rod cover shapes.

 

Test fit of electronics, and drilled the holes for jack and pots. Belly cut underway, didn't have 80 grit discs and ran out of time so I'll continue later.

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Never thought of predrilling the belly carve with a forstner bit! Definitely much less fine dust!

Then again, the big belt sanders I've been using have a very powerful dust extraction so that has never been an issue for me.

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