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what are y'all usin' fer wet sand paper?


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I usually go to the auto zone or other and get it... I believe it's 3M brand but it sure seems to loose it's grit fast.  Just wondering what others are using for wetsand paper?  Primarily I'm interested in 400 - 1000 grit. 

I have micro mesh and it's great for higher grits... but wouldn't want to use that to level out initially because I suspect it would just get gummed up fast.  I like it quite a bit for 1k and up polishing... but I'd be interested to know what y'all use there too.  

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I've used some Italian made paper sold at a nearby "inexpensive" hardware store. I've also used the Mirka Abranet mesh wet.

A drop of dishwashing soap helps preventing gumming. And of course a light hand is a must! Even with water the friction can produce enough heat to burn the sugar in the wood dust to a gum. The finer the paper, the more friction there is.

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3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

I've used some Italian made paper sold at a nearby "inexpensive" hardware store. I've also used the Mirka Abranet mesh wet.

A drop of dishwashing soap helps preventing gumming. And of course a light hand is a must! Even with water the friction can produce enough heat to burn the sugar in the wood dust to a gum. The finer the paper, the more friction there is.

thanks for the reply biz.  I do use the dishwashing soap and all.  when nitro is only a week old it gums up no matter what and that's fine... but the abrassive-ness of the 3M stuff, even on cured finishes... just seems to turn south on even the sides of paper I'm not using after just a few applications.  I think it has more to do with the paper it's on.  

Good paper is well worth the money in my experience.  When I worked at a cab shop we used this dura gold stuff for all the da sanders and that stuff would last a long time... I recently aquired some 400 grit sticky back for my fret level bar and it is great.  also some sanding pads and I find that I can start with 220 instead of 150 because the stuff is just so abrasive right out the gate.  

Did find some dura gold wet sand 800 and ordered that on amazon... will see if it's any better.  Going to look into mirka because I've heard that name before.  Thanks for the tip.

light hand... have you seen my mits?  no such thing here!!  hulk smash!

learning to sand light... in every context is a must.  when you sand hard on anything it actually just heats up the paper and also takes things out of flat real quick.  I am aware that sanding light is actually faster than trying to sand hard - but it's a good point and thanks for bringing it up.

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I knew that you knew most of that...

Another product that I've been using is the 3M Hookit 270J: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071174/. It's available both as solid square pads and perforated rounds.

And finally I've used the https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071641/  in 3000 and 6000, usually wet.

Both of those can hold quite a lot of water compared to paper to keep cool.

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5 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I knew that you knew most of that...

Another product that I've been using is the 3M Hookit 270J: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071174/. It's available both as solid square pads and perforated rounds.

And finally I've used the https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071641/  in 3000 and 6000, usually wet.

Both of those can hold quite a lot of water compared to paper to keep cool.

right on, had not seen that.  also, that mirka stuff looks interesting.  I had looked a while back for 800 grit disks and came up bumpkiss.  it is a great idea as I imagine all the gum you might get is easily cleaned.  was looking at their sanding pad - do you know if those will mount on just regular hook and loop pad or do I need to buy the mirka pad?  If I knew the pad was more flexible it'd be a no brainer... as I'd like something flexible.

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I use 3M 400 grit, but modified. I take two pieces and lay one on a flat surface and use the other one with a block to lightly sand the grit on he one on the flat surface - both get sanded technically. This creates scratch depths closer to 600 grit with the grit spacing of 400 which keeps it from clogging up for a long time, and makes it easy to wipe or blow the sanding dust off. And I do this dry so I can see what is happening and don't introduce any moisture into any of the cavities and holes.

Works good for me.:)

SR

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2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

do you know if those will mount on just regular hook and loop pad or do I need to buy the mirka pad?

I've used a cheap hook and loop block with all of products mentioned above. One like this, designed for regular 6" round pads but can be used with square ones as well:

Sanding Mouse Hook and Loop Sanding Block. Ideal For Woodworking, Furniture  Restoration, Home and Automotive Body. Accepts Standard Orbital Sanding  Discs w/Hook and Loop Backing (5" Sanding Mouse) - - Amazon.com

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38 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I bought mine from the automotive paint store, the picture was grabbed from Amazon by a Google Image Search for "hook and loop sanding block"

noice... just found it and snagged it.  thanks for the tip. 

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