Two Ukuleles

[Bizman62]

How many plies are there? Two or three?

[Nicco]

3 plies. The face and two, inner bunya pine layers

[Bizman62]

A further question: Is the middle layer cross grain to the other two?

[Nicco]

No, they're all in the same direction for the sides. I couldn't get even close to enough width to do the side in one strip across the grain, and my gut feel is that the gain from the cross grain is offset by being non continuous. Maybe that's wrong though? 

I'll definitely do cross grain on the back plates though, no question about that

[Nicco]

Oh and both sides done, fret board blank cut out 

[Bizman62]

6 hours ago, Nicco said:

my gut feel is that the gain from the cross grain is offset by being non continuous. Maybe that's wrong though? 

Hard to tell. Plywood veneers are rotary cut which allows large surfaces. Guitar side veneers are most likely saw cut which limits the width to the diameter of the trunk.

Then again a glue joint along the grain can be stronger than the wood itself. We do it all the time and not only on relatively thick bookmatched tops. There's tons of cheap carved top guitars with a gorgeous looking bookmatched top made of 0.5 mm thin veneer. If the joint were an issue no one would buy them. However, I've never heard about issues with the centerline joint on those although of course that may happen. On the contrary, it's often hard to tell whether it's a solid top or a veneer which can make sanding for a refinish somewhat scary.

That said I guess a cross grain veneer sandwiched between longitudinal veneers would be strong enough even if and when glued from pieces.

[Nicco]

Very true, mate. Likely would have been fine. All good though, they seem pretty bloody rigid as it is. As I said, I'll definitely do cross grain for the back. 

I had to raid my old bolts bucket,; handy thing about doing lots of car stuff back in my 20's, I've got heaps of different bolts, long and short lying around. Ha ha. 

I realised though, interstingly, that the side bending process stretched the outer form a little! Ooft! Didn't expect that. I had to get a big clamp and pull it back into shape while I drilled and bolted, now it's holding itself in shape. 

Sides are both made, I've trimmed the ends and got them in the form together, and I've flatted the top edges. Next step is getting the neck and tail blocks in place to hold the rims together, then I'm waiting on kerfing strips. 

I need to make a radius dish next so I can get started on the back. That's got me a little flustered, but I'm sure I'll work it out. 

[Bizman62]

7 hours ago, Nicco said:

I need to make a radius dish next so I can get started on the back. That's got me a little flustered, but I'm sure I'll work it out. 

I've seen at least two ways to make one with a router.

The first method I saw involved a tripod made out of surfboard masts, the router was hanging from the fourth mast and the swinging action similar to the Foucault Pendulum carved the dish. I wonder where Susan Gardener disappeared....

The second method takes much less space. All you need is two concave rails for the router. Side fences will make it more accurate. End blocks with centre lines would also help. Then just draw a circle on the board and lots of lines going through the centre like a clock face having minutes marked. Then just align the centre line between 12 and 6 and route your first pass. Move to 12:01/0:31 etc. Finally sand the ridges off. -A centre pin would help rotating the sled but there's a couple of caveats: Avoiding routing the pin and radiusing the pin area. For the latter a convex sanding block should do the trick. That would help with the entire dish.

[Nicco]

Router on a rope sounds sketchy as hell!!

The book I purchased recommended cutting strips 50mm wide to the curve and arranging them around the circle, not solid, just evenly spaced like a 12 pointed star, then glue a sheet of 3mm mdf into the curve they form. 

I think this is the easiest (and safer than death router swing of fury) way to go, I just need to go and buy some timber to actually do it. 

[Dave Higham]

I explained how I made mine without a router here.

https://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/index.php?threads/how-to-make-a-radius-dish.30203/

Edited May 23, 2022 by Dave Higham

[Nicco]

Awesome, thanks Dave. Very cool way to do it as well. 

[Bizman62]

6 hours ago, Nicco said:

Router on a rope sounds sketchy as hell!!

Actually a swinging pole but you got the idea right...

@Dave Higham sure has the easiest way to do it. Adding that as the primary method on my list of three.

[Nicco]

Neck and heel blocks are now shaped using qld maple left over from the blue guitar's neck. It's bucketing down at the moment here, so I'll wait until the weather dries up a bit before I glue them in. 

Also made the waist spacer blocks at the same time.

I'll be going for a toddler-less trip to the hardware shop after work either today or tomorrow to pick up stuff for the radius dish and some more mdf for tenor forms. Toddler-less being important as it's hard to critically think through stuff when you've got an 2 year old trying to "help" by grabbing everything, pushing the trolley or run off.

[ScottR]

15 hours ago, Nicco said:

Toddler-less being important as it's hard to critically think through stuff when you've got an 2 year old trying to "help" by grabbing everything, pushing the trolley or run off.

Nothing like a two year old to teach you how to multi-task.

SR

[Nicco]

I've been to the hardware store. Bonus, they had hardwood laminated discs discounted to clear stock. That'll make a perfect, if not a little over the top snazzy, base for a radius disc. 

I've also got threaded bar now for the waist spreaders, and the glue on the neck and heel blocks is drying

[Nicco]

The rims are self supporting!!

[Nicco]

I laminated the back face of the soprano last night, it doesn't seem quite right unfortunately. 

The guitar's I've done before I've used normal white PVA glue, but I managed to find Titebond Original to do this one. It doesn't look like it's as happy to cure in the vacuum bag. Hrmm.

I'll sit it out in the sun this arvo and see if it becomes happier with a bit of heat

[Nicco]

Unfortunately it's not looking great. The glue just started sweating in the sun, the inner layers have gone all rippled. ☹

I've clamped it to see if that works as final recovery method, but I'm not holding my breath. I think I'll be making another back tonight

[Nicco]

Phew! Recovered it. I ended up clamping it between two cauls and leaving it overnight. Nice and flat and solid now. 

Also, for mum's soprano, the fret slots are almost done, and the fret board blank for dad's tenor is now cut

[Nicco]

Fret slots finished for the soprano, just need to bring the blank down to thickness. 

The blank for the tenor has been brought down to thickness and is ready to get some slots. 

I gave them both a sand up to 400 grit last night and a hit of wax to protect them, they look gorgeous in person, but hard to photo in a way that does it any justice. 

[Bizman62]

It's so hard to forget how tiny they are until your hand is holding a major part!

[Nicco]

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

It's so hard to forget how tiny they are until your hand is holding a major part!

Yep, it's tidgy tiny! 

[Nicco]

Had a bit of a fail last night, ran the soprano fret board blank through the band saw to roughly bring it to thickness but the blade wandered. Too thin now. ☹ Unfortunately it's scrap now. 

Does anyone have any idea on what would be causing wandering? I think I've got it set up well, but... i dunno. Also possibly operator error is a factor. 

I didn't take a photo of the ruined fretboard, but I did get one of the replacement blank. You can see the curvature on the top left of the blank, that was the blade pulling towards the fence as I entered the cut. 

[Charlie H 72]

Sorry bout your fretboard! This has been a fun watch so far. Loving all the acoustic instruments on here lately. 
 

as luck would have it fine woodworking sent this article on blade drift & bandsaw setup to my email a few days ago

https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-machines/five-tips-for-better-bandsawing

[Bizman62]

How coincidental! Just yesterday evening I watched a lengthy Jerry Rosa video where he demonstrated a new tool for the bandsaw. As you see, it's intended for cutting uniform slices very accurately. As Jerry says there, pushing a piece against the fence has all kinds of variables like uneven pressure which can make the blade drift no matter how well your setup has been done. As wood is quite an inconsistent material by nature something odd can always be expected so I wouldn't consider trying to compensate a softer or harder spot in the wood an operator error.