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OFR not returning to pitch


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Anyone with some experience know what may cause this? I have a feeling the posts may be worn a bit but I don't know how much wear would result in this. How about spring tension? If I've got too little tension, that may cause this, right? How can I tell if I've got the tension set appropriately? What I've been doing is starting with a claw distance that "looks" right and tune it up and adjust things until the bridge is about level with the body. I don't know if it's possible to have a level bridge but not have enough spring tension?

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Well sir, it could be a combination of things. Here's a few things to check:

Are your knife edges on the floyd sharpened?

Are your trem posts worn?

Are your strings properly stretched?

Is your nut properly locked?

Does your nut have grooves in it from excessive locking on the strings? This could cause the strings to slip through.

Your spring tension shouldn't be what's causing the problems. Spring tension will only make your floyd level, or unlevel, and if your knife edges are sharpened, it should always return to point "zero".

Hope that helps ^.^


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My floyd had problems staying in tune until i got the correct length string block, after that it's never more then +or-2 cents off

what gauge string are you using?

most of the instability i've noticed on floyds is just caused by old strings, or new strings that haven't been stretched out yet,

are there actual signs of wear on the edges of posts?

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I agree. Theoretically, the spring tension is constant regardless of the location of the bridge, since the spring tension is an equal and opposite counterpart to the string tension. The only way to alter the spring tension is to alternate your string gauge or tuning. So no, it's not possible to have a level float, and not enough spring tension.

The jemsite forum debates this constantly. It's a marriage of all things coming together in harmony. The obvious is that the studs must be tight, immovable, and straight. And their groove has to be clean, and have the right angle in it to match the range of your knife edges. If they're grooved from the lathe cut, the knife edges can "walk" up and down in there. They also must line up perfectly with the knife edges. The edges must be sharp, but not so sharp they just quickly wear down unevenly, or curl around into a burr. Besides that, so long as every other part is tight, like the block, the saddles, whatever, you're just fighting an uphill battle. But all you have to do is try an old Ibanez rocker-style trem, or something like it to appreciate the relative stability of the Floyd.

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Knife edges...can someone post a pic of these actually are, i have no idea (apart from the kitchen variety of course

You kinda expect some spectacular knife edges? It's very unspectacular....just that the two whloes in the baseplate of the which have contact with the studs of the trem are somewhat sharpened, as can be seen in the image....


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