CLEAR COAT DILEMMAS

[Sethmetal]

Two Dilemmas

1. I have an Ibanez RG series that my girlfriend did some custom art with Prisma color(Colored Pencils) The front is random stuff and the back is a mix of HR Gieger Work. I have begun clear coating, using regular clear spray cans from home depot. I think they are poly. Is it ok to finish using this spray, or should I switch to Nitro now??? Where can I find and affordable nitro spray???

2. I'm workung on a Saga guitar kit that came with a figured maple veneer. They sealed the wood (DANG!!!) so I can't stain the top like I'd like to. Wherre can I find a Transparent color spray? I would like to be able to see the wood grain a little. Or is it simply not worth the effort? Thanks for the input

-Seth

[Southpa]

1. I wouldn't mix the two. Either stick with poly or sand it right back to wood and then shoot your nitro.

2. If you want to stain the top then sand everything off. I mean right past the sealer.

If thats the way you want it then it is worth the effort.

[Morben Guitars]

There's nothing that says you can't apply the dye on top of the sealer coat...infact that's my prefered way of doing it. It often yields a more "3-D" effect; espically with figured woods. Additionally it will give you a more even color. Somtimes dye is absorbed differently on different sections of wood giving you dark patches...

I say give it a shot on a part of the guitar that will be covered by the pickguard as a test. If it looks good, then seal it in with sanding sealer or the like, and shoot your nitro.

FYI: look at reranch guitar finishing online...they have what you need and some helpful tutorials.

[Sethmetal]

There's nothing that says you can't apply the dye on top of the sealer coat...infact that's my prefered way of doing it. It often yields a more "3-D" effect; espically with figured woods. Additionally it will give you a more even color. Somtimes dye is absorbed differently on different sections of wood giving you dark patches...

I tried to dye over the sealer, and as I imagined, the sealer repels the dye. I'm using the Stew Mac dyes in the 2 oz bottles. Do you have any other suggestions? Otherwise I personally wouldn't recommend this.

Can I mix it with lacquer and apply it by hand? Or do I need to finally make the investment on an airbrush?

Thanks a ton

-Seth

[Sethmetal]

[Sethmetal]

I just read a post below about mixing the dye with alcohol to help it over sealer? What kind of alcohol should I use. Seagrams? Bacardi 151?

Seriously though, are we talking Isopropyl alcohol like I can get at the drug store or is it something special.

I just want to get the dye to stick over the sealer. When I used water it repeled right off the sealer (I guess that's what sealer is supposed to do).

Thanks -Seth

[Southpa]

Seth, if you want to enhance the wood grain then you have to get some color into the wood grain. As you've already tried, any stain applied now runs like water off a duck's back. You have to open up the wood again to get your stain in. Grab some sandpaper and get bizzy.

[Sethmetal]

I'm afraid of going through the veneer if I sand, it is very thin. Even if I sand down to the surface of the veneer, won't there still be sealer in the pores? What is the most agressive grade paper that I should use? and what grade should I sand up to?

Thanks for the help -Seth

[IWishICouldShred]

Isn't there a tuitorial about stripping it with chemicals? Maybe that wouldnt be such a good idea....

Cool sn though

[westhemann]

I just read a post below about mixing the dye with alcohol to help it over sealer? What kind of alcohol should I use. Seagrams? Bacardi 151?

Seriously though, are we talking Isopropyl alcohol like I can get at the drug store or is it something special.

I just want to get the dye to stick over the sealer. When I used water it repeled right off the sealer (I guess that's what sealer is supposed to do).

Thanks -Seth

denatured alcohol is what you want....

but a glaze coat would work...mix dye with clear laquer and coat,let dry,and clear over it