Stalefish Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Helloo.. I'm currently in the planning stage of my first project and I'm trying to decide between a compound radius and a normal fixed radius fretboard.. Any pointers or suggestions?? Opinions are more than welcome.. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 If it is your first project, go with the fixed radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJohn Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 I agree with Primal.Not to say don't ever do a compound,just suggesting to eliminate as many complications for a first project.It would be a better way to get a feel for the work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalefish Posted March 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Ooopss.. I think I've phrased my question completely wrong.. I'm buying a neck from Warmoth and I was wondering which one to go for.. I'm not making it myself... Sorry 'bout that!! Thanks for the replies, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarMaestro Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Then take the compound radius....it's just better for two reasons: 1. You have a nice tight radius at the nut for chording work etc., but a much flatter radius at the heel, so that your bends don't die and you can pull of the faster sweeping licks much easier 2. The compound radius if executed properly allows for the lowest action possible without getting fret buzz and dying bendings Very important is that your nut has the radius of the fingerboard at the nut and that the bridge lies on the cone defined by the start and end radius of the fingerboard. Warmoth does not aim for these criteria and in my opinion a compound radius board can only be of real advantage if these criteria are met. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidgec94 Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Very important is that your nut has the radius of the fingerboard at the nut and that the bridge lies on the cone defined by the start and end radius of the fingerboard. Warmoth does not aim for these criteria and in my opinion a compound radius board can only be of real advantage if these criteria are met. Two things I assume you can just file the underside of the nut to match the radius? I'm not sure what you mean by 'making sure the bridge lies on cone' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarMaestro Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 The fingerboard with its two different radii at each end lies on a cone as opposed to a cylinder which you have without a compound radius. Only if the nut and the bridge lies on that cone as well you'll get the lowes action possible..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidgec94 Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 So the bridge has to follow the same radius as the heel of the neck? (i dont think i have that right, please help a fool!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarMaestro Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 So the bridge has to follow the same radius as the heel of the neck? (i dont think i have that right, please help a fool!) No. Imagine a cone. It has different radii everywhere. It starts with the biggest radius which is the bottom surface of the cone and the the radii get smaller and smaller towards the tip of the cone. The radius of the fingerboard at the nut and the different radius of the fingerboard at the heel together with the fingerboard taper define a cone. The bridge has to have a radius that is bigger then the radius at the end of the fingerboard because it is nearer to the bottom of the cone and as we said before the radius increases towards the bottom. It's really kinda hard to get across what I mean with actually talking and without pictures, but I hope you understand me now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidgec94 Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Ah i see, i was still thinking of the portion between the heel and bridge as cylinder like and not a continuation of the cone formed by the compound radius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 yes, maestro has a point, i think nyjbkim worked out the proper birdge radius for a 10"-16" compound neck as 19" something.... so that kind of limits your bridge options to a strat style hardtail, since tune-o's aren't made that flat, and trem's aren't either, but the saddles on the bridge can be shimmed to get the desired radius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Nope, wasn't me... but I do remember that post . Edit: Ok, found that thread here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Nope, wasn't me... but I do remember that post . Edit: Ok, found that thread here. my appologies, Just for laughs I jumped into AutoCad (easier than math in this case) and found size for radius of bridge as asked. Assume, 25 1/2" scale, 10" at nut, and 16" at 18.75" from nut this results in about 18.16" radius at bridge. Of course since the bridge for each string is at a different distance from nut this isn't really a true number but gives you an idea, again just for laughs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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