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Chevron Maple Pattern?


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Hi!

Would like to do a chevron curly maple pattern like this one:

chevronmaple.jpg

How do I do that? I mean if I simply buy a usual bookmatched curly maple top and saw the middle line with an angle so that the curls meet at 45 degrees then they will not fit together anymore like in this picture. Please tell me how to do it....

Thanks,

Marcel Knapp!

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Direct from the Ed Roman site:

Have a monster truck with maple treads drive over your guitar. Its an expensive and time consuming process used by few manufacturers. In fact the original monster truck driver finds it not worth his time so you will have to get one of the few ed has remaining in stock. :D

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I mean if I simply buy a usual bookmatched curly maple top and saw the middle line with an angle so that the curls meet at 45 degrees then they will not fit together anymore like in this picture

surely this would work?

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Yeah, what Perry said is correct.

You'll need two -very- wide booked pieces, and you'll slice the inside edges at an angle to 'close the pattern in', and drop the outer edges down.

I mean, this is pretty simple. Imagine you have 2 booked pieces sitting in front of you, and you take them and close them in on each other until you get the angle you want, then you just mark your pieces and cut them accordingly.

Then you'll see why you need such wide pieces :D

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Yeah, what Perry said is correct.

You'll need two -very- wide booked pieces, and you'll slice the inside edges at an angle to 'close the pattern in', and drop the outer edges down.

I mean, this is pretty simple. Imagine you have 2 booked pieces sitting in front of you, and you take them and close them in on each other until you get the angle you want, then you just mark your pieces and cut them accordingly.

Then you'll see why you need such wide pieces :D

so am i right in thinking that you just sit one piece overlapping ontop of the other one, and then move it until the grain matches a suitable amount? then mark, cut stick etc

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Yeah, what Perry said is correct.

You'll need two -very- wide booked pieces, and you'll slice the inside edges at an angle to 'close the pattern in', and drop the outer edges down.

I mean, this is pretty simple. Imagine you have 2 booked pieces sitting in front of you, and you take them and close them in on each other until you get the angle you want, then you just mark your pieces and cut them accordingly.

Then you'll see why you need such wide pieces :D

so am i right in thinking that you just sit one piece overlapping ontop of the other one, and then move it until the grain matches a suitable amount? then mark, cut stick etc

Incorrect, or just a bad way of doing it. Put the pieces back together, as they came apart, and recut the bookmatch line.

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Incorrect, or just a bad way of doing it. Put the pieces back together, as they came apart, and recut the bookmatch line.

This won't work as far as I see it....recutting the bookmatch line at an angle make you loose alot of wood with alot of figure on it. The figure at the resulting bookmatch line will not exactly fit together then. It could onyl work if you have a VERY uniform figure. Or do I get something wrong here?

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This won't work as far as I see it....recutting the bookmatch line at an angle make you loose alot of wood with alot of figure on it. The figure at the resulting bookmatch line will not exactly fit together then. It could onyl work if you have a VERY uniform figure. Or do I get something wrong here?

Yes, because if you are taking the same off each piece (folding it together and cutting the angle) you still have a bookmatch. Any axis at which you "open the book" will be matched.

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Yes, because if you are taking the same off each piece (folding it together and cutting the angle) you still have a bookmatch. Any axis at which you "open the book" will be matched.

Ok....got it at least....lol....thanks alot!

hehe...you know...every time i read this topic,the page started past this reply,so i did not see where maestro said this...

B) i guess this is for me :D

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