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Neck/fretboard construction

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OK, I have been racking my brain over a neck I am getting ready to start. I have all the pieces but I am hesitant to start as Im not sure what order to do things in. Here is a list of parts I'm using;

- 27"X4"X1" maple neck blank

- pre slotted, UN-radiused rosewood fretboard

- enough binding to bind fretboard, not headstock

- MOP Les Paul type inlays

- double acting truss rod

- 2 18" carbon fiber rods

Now, I need to know what order would be best for assembling. I have an idea what order to do but there are some aspects of this neck that are giving me some problems. I do NOT have a bandsaw so I will be using a template and a router to cut the neck shape. Here are my questions;

1) I got an unradiused fretboard so that I could route the areas for the inlay accurately. Should I also install the binding at this time? Before I radius the boar? My insticts say yes but they have been known to be wrong.

2) Should the whole fretboard be put together (inlays/binding) before being attached to the actual neck or after. Since Im doing a binding the final dimensions of the fretboard will need to be exact, there wont be any room for trimming.

3) Should I wait to carve the back neck profile untill after the fretboard has been glued on? To me this seems like It would allow for a more stable base and prevent any possible backbow. Also, I have never radiused a fretboard so I am not sure hom much of the board I will actually need to take off thus I dont know how much of the 1" thickness of the neck itself will need to be removed to give the neck its final thickness.

4) Finally, as i said this is the first board I have radiused myself. When I am routing for the inlays which are 1/16" thick should I route exactly 1/16" deep or go more so that I dont risk taking them down to nothing at the edges. I will be using a 12" radius.

Wow, for those of you who have made it through all that I really appreciate it! All the books I have talk about attaching the fingerboard after the neck has need cut and profiled and then trimming it down. Doing my own inlay/binding/radiusing has kind of thrown a wrench (or two) into that whole idea. Any info you all have woud be GREATLY appreciated. thanks to all.

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most of what you're asking has a "yes / no" answer meaning you can pretty much do it either way you're comfortable with. personally i glue the fingerboard on when then neck is tappered but not shaped on the back. I've only done binding once but i did it before radiusing the finger board.

At the widest point of the fingerboard you'll lose aprox 1/16" on the sides when radiusing the fingerboard so i guess it depends how wide you're inlay design is, but i'd wait for one of the inlay masters to answer that..

when radiusing and leveling a fingerboard don't expect to take off anything more then a 64th from the middle thickness of the board, 1/32" if your board wasn't planed properly...

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