psw Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Hi There...4am again (just so you know...I'm really not well...and definitely not sleeping too good ), still...sympathy=nil... Hi there Tassie...there was a theory that the sustainer would only work in Oz due to the great big hole in the ozone layer over us...it's sure let the heat out...it's freezing over here.... For a about 2 days or so I have been following this thread and finished building the 386 Amp in the early hours this morning. (that's the ticket...trouble sleeping too...!) Just a few questions, If I understand the posts so far, I need to actually feed the 386 amp directly from the bridge PU not from the output cable for best performance.(correct) Is there any risk involving hooking this little amp up to my quitar and using a set of headphones to just test if the amp is working ? (absolutely none...in fact, i'd suggest it...otherwise, how will you know...oh the squeeling, right Tim...anyway...no risk at all) I think I can answer this for you..(thanks Tim...right on the money...P) Welcome to the forum, (you beat me!) Thanks to LK as always...see I'm not the only one to ask this question...doh Cool, thanks for the reply(s). Like I said, I have a bit of knowledge on the subject but that is about it. I think if I hook a battery up to this thing smoke will come out of it but that is about it. So lets see. (that's the Aussie spirit...I know nothing, but if I put this here, and that there....(distant explosion)...see that's why where the "clever country and leaders in innovation....) Actually, check out the first post in the thread where I did get smoke from the guitar...over ten years ago now...!!!! Jim Rayden writes: I just completed my first sustainer. Well, it kinda works. Help me debug it, here's the data. Hey...that's some serious mods...does no one want to walk in my actual footprints...it's sustain anarchy, isn't it...destroying transformer's for wire....I love it...but, go your own way how do I help you back!!!!! I removed the neck humbucker and replaced it with a single coil, wich I rewound to a driver More detail...did you block up the bottom to make a slim coil at the top, or just wound the whole bobbin? Also, what's the impedance of the coil, this greately effects the resonant frequency of the device and the efficiency of the amp...? The bridge pickup was turned into two single coils, one into the sustainer and the other into the output. Seemed like the most reasonable solution to me, as I dislike humbuckers anyway. Well, there was no need to do that!!!! The full HB would give more power to the amp and a cleaner "hum-free" signal...not to say it won't work...but you could still split the HB independantly of the drive circuit to get the single coil sound while the driver gets the full thing...errr, somehow!?) The driver amplifier was taken out of a pair of active computer speakers. With 9 volts of supply, it gives about 1,5w per channel. So I wired the channels in series, one overdriving the other. You're not Australian like Tassie are you...hmmm...got a bit of the old Aussie spirit going there... 1.5 watts per channel and you're using both channels...a little overkill don't you think?? Seriously, this is fine to experiment with (I did all sorts of stuff like this) but how you going to mount it in the guitar...opps...I mean, to much power and distortion my friend.... I don't think you're getting this kind of output from a 9v battery anyway...LK could explain why...the amp can only work with the power supplied. The problem is, the sustainer has a good effect on only the lowest notes. The lower strings are easier to drive cause of their higher mass and lower tension...you're hitting the strings with crude brute force...to get the dainty strings to respond, you're going to have to employ a little finesse, you're going to have to woo them. These strings will not be impressed with your mega watts and trannie reject driver I suspect.... BTW...any chance of a pic!!! Would I need some eq-ing in there? I've said it before, I'll say it again..."the magic's in the driver"... So I need a more powerful amp with that driver for more clean headroom and some more sustain? Nope...I suspect a bit more of an elegant approach...maybe some dinner, start with a movie perhaps.... ...opps, seriously I'm not getting enough sleep...I mean...me, and I think Tim maybe too, are in the clean camp...the other school is the squarewave camp...which is the better drive signal?...both work...you are definitely, way into the square camp there.... I'd say it's time to get down and get yourself a reel of wire (about $5) and make some more drivers. Definitely, you're going to want another amp that will actually work in the guitar, I don't see a problem with the fetzer/ruby design (note this thing only puts out a half a watt...mines different (same power)...but it's just an amp really...(a small one!!) aha...another convertBesides these problems, I'm loving the thing! All hail artificial sustain! Anyway...great to see some experimentation and enthusiasim. I hope I didn't come across as critical...not meaning to dis' anyone, yo...but a lot of this is repeating my past "failures"...Not that I'm right, or that there is only one way, or that my way is best, but....I've put this thread together so people can build on my experiences (which amount to hundreds of hours!!!) So...at the moment...the slim driver rules over here, whether on top of the pickup (practical placement, low mod solution) or as a discreate driver (just add mag, routing and pickup movement, probably required). I've made a few and there is plenty of room for changing it to suit different applications (I've just posted one at DIYstomp)...but these things I hold to be true (for the moment)....! As for the amp...I have, without success so far, been seeking a "standard" amp design. I'm actually working quite a bit on this again and am awaiting a completely new design by mail.... The purpose of this would be to stop people focusing on the "schematics" and look more into the "driver", just as LK encouraged me to do, very, very early on in this thread...(thanks, mate!) Anyway...sorry for the Mega-Thread...and the quote function failed on me again...took a while to do... psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Alright, psw, thanks for the reply. I did these mods because I'm building the sustainer on the materials I have at home at the time. On the single coil, I didn't actually block the bottom, I just wound it really close to the top. I think it reaches as far as one cm, I think I should block the bottom and rewind it. The impedance of the coil is 8 ohms. I measured the transformer and found the 8 ohm winding and used that. Yes, the 1,5 watts into 1,5 watts is a little overkill. About the power need of the circuit, I'm building a power supply box and send 9V to the guitar through a stereo cable, with one channel for signal and other one for 9V. I did that because I'm predicting I'll be using this the whole time anyway. "to get the dainty strings to respond, you're going to have to employ a little finesse, you're going to have to woo them." What do you mean by wooing? You mean like a vibrato? "I mean...me, and I think Tim maybe too, are in the clean camp...the other school is the squarewave camp...which is the better drive signal?...both work...you are definitely, way into the square camp there...." Yeah, I actually want to pass into the clean camp. Ok, I'm off to rewinding my driver and using the ruby as the amp. Bye for now. ------------ Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transient Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Jim, you may not necessarily need Ruby. Have you tried using only one of those 1.5W amps instead of two in series? I have a feeling that one would work better than two. I had tried a similar thing months ago, using cheap computer speaker circuitries. I first had used two in series like you, but using only one seems to work better. ... emre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3Va1L Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 just a few questions about magnets... I chipped(broke a 1cm part...) my magnet wich I took from a VERY crappy single coil... So... can I glue the little part back? assuming i'm putting it back exactly as it was (and I checked to make sure the sides are ok...) Also... is it important wich side I put the magnet (in my driver...)? because I have no way (right now) to know wich side is wich on the magnet... I guess if I f*** up, i could keep the phase switch (harmonic) reversed?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 The magnet should be fine...make sure the parts are stuck back in the same way as they broke...the polarity needs to be the same on both pieces (use a compas if not sure)...which side goes up doesn't matter...reversing the magnet has the same effect as reversing the drive wires (harmonic switch)....p of course it's better not to break 'em... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anti-Idiot Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 hi, i'm a new guy in the forum. i'm from Peru and it's kinda difficult to understand english, plus don't know much about electronic, but i found this thread very helpful. i was wondering if psw could do a tutorial or add some stuff to Mike's. since his sustainer is working' pretty cool, with harmonies or fundamentals, and the only problen is the pop!. I read almost 63 pages of english and electronic stuff and my head hurts (and so my eyes) thanx PS - PSW, you rule!!! i was looking long time ago for this sustainer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 hi, i'm a new guy in the forum. i'm from Peru and it's kinda difficult to understand english, plus don't know much about electronic, but i found this thread very helpful. i was wondering if psw could do a tutorial or add some stuff to Mike's. since his sustainer is working' pretty cool, with harmonies or fundamentals, and the only problen is the pop!. I read almost 63 pages of english and electronic stuff and my head hurts (and so my eyes) thanx PS - PSW, you rule!!! i was looking long time ago for this sustainer... ← Welcome to the forum, cool to see so many people getting into the sustainer project. I'll repeat my question to others. How to sustain the higher notes? Peter mentioned something about wooing them. Really, how? ------------ Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 I read almost 63 pages of english and electronic stuff and my head hurts (and so my eyes) thanx PS - PSW, you rule!!! i was looking long time ago for this sustainer... ← Thanx...sorry about the brain pain...Welcome. I'll repeat my question to others. How to sustain the higher notes? Peter mentioned something about wooing them. Really, how? ------------ Jimbo ← It was an analogy.... ...you know, show 'em a good time... Oh alright....The thicker strings have a higher mass and a lower tension...this gives the driver more to work with and requires less effort to move them...the higher strings are the opposite...OK On top of this, the higher strings, besides being harder to move, vibrate at a much higher frequency. That means that their positive and negative cycles change much faster. The driver, not only requires more effort to move them physically, but has to match them in response time. The driver has to receive the positive signal voltage while the string is physically moving (positive...say up) and change to negative (when the strings in a negative phase...say moving down) Now electromagnetic devices like our driver have some delay in the response. For instance, if you put a nail on a magnet, it becomes itself magnetic for a short time. Now our "core" does the same thing...then you expect it to loose this magnetism and estabish an opposing magnetism in the time that it takes the string to move up and down...tricky! Get it really wrong and the driver will try to pull the string down when it should be going down...anti-sustain, kinda. Reverse the phase a whole 180 degrees and the thing will block this vibration, leaving only the harmonics...the function of the harmonic switch. Hence we've discussed things like laminated or ferrite cores as these, although highly magnetic, do not have the same retention of something like ordinary steel. These things are great and I did work with these types of "exotic" materials (very common in transformers for the same reasons we want them) but they are hard to work with...so not so DIY...and not strictly necessary, as I have shown. So, more power will not...woo...the strings, they will just cause increased magnetism that will be harder to defeat at high frequencies. Less power, better driver is what will impress these beauties...you need a really fast reacting driver... That's why...the "magic's" in the driver. If you check out the patents, there's all kinds of wacky frequency dependent phase compensated circuitry. I've avoided all this by working on more efficient driver designs. The principle is simple, getting it just right is harder...that is...if I hadn't already given explicit instructions based on hours of experimentation: Slim blade driver, 8 ohms 0.2mm wire, very well potted on a steel core of about 3mm width and about 4mm deep. Low watt amp, no neck pickup connection, mounted near the end of the neck, either with it's own magnet or a suitably strong enough magnetic field from the pickup. I'm happy for people to experiment but that's the recipie I've proposed and shown to have worked. Do as I've done, and I see very little reason that it shouldn't work...rewind deep pickups with lots of steel...well, that's a hard road. Bite the bullet and actually make a driver not a re-worked pickup...what can I say!? psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Yea, before my last post I already had made a new driver instead of that rewound pickup. I took a pickup magnet (0.5x6x1) and wound the coil on 0.5cm wide, 0.5cm deep magnetic core. Do you think a steel core with a magnet on the bottom would be better? I also have a bit thicker wire around it. Could that be the problem also? Oh and it's not potted. I guess that makes the windings vibrate on the higher frequencies and leave the strings decaying. Also, one more fact against me is that I have a 24-fretter and thus my driver is closer to the bridge pickup. Ah well I gotta live with that. Ok then, I'll get myself some thinner wire and rewind and pot the thing. ----------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassies Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Good morning again. Hope everyone is still fine and dandy. Just a little update on my first attempt at building a sustainer. Well it doesn't work. Like I said, my knowledge of electronics is basically zero, so I will have to do some more reading. Anyway, just a few sources I picked up on that might be of help to other people, I picked up a book at a second hand book store, called "The Art of Electronics" by Cambridge Press. If you want to know about or get started with electronics, this is likely one of the best refference I have seen thus far. My main problem though is not theory on how the thing should work, I just don't have any background in commiting the design to circuit board. I couldnt find any Perfboard so I had to go with a thing called "VeroBoard"?? It works on the same principle as those prefab breadboards with tracks and stuff but shite you have to use a drill bit or special tool to make breaks in the track, so I think something went wrong with that whole process but, I will attemp to get a new board up tonite and let everyone know how it's going. For the guys in SA that have trouble finding components, I have come across the mother of all suppliers + you can order on the net + they sell components to the small guys. Just go to www.rssouthafrica.com. They have just about everything you can need on any project. So anyway, until I found a decent tutorial on commiting a design to circuit board, I will stick to something that even I cannot F*ck Up with. Winding the driver Have Fun. Tas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Tassie, having just discovered Veroboard after years of struggling with perf, I gotta say that it's possibly the best thing since canned beer! From now on, unless the project justifies the expense of getting pcboards fab'd, or I simply can't find a stripboard big enough, I'm never fooling with perf again! It's great stuff! There's a simple program floating around the 'Net called Stripboard Magic that'll help a lot in getting you started (if you need any help - I use it a lot for quick prototyping, especially when board size isn't an issue) - it's freeware, so if you can't find a copy, PM me and I'll see if I can't get it to you. I may even have a vero layout of the Fetzer/Ruby - if I can find one, I'll send it to you. Regardless of which amp you ( or anybody else around here, for that matter) decide to use, I highly recommend debugging your build with a small 8 ohm speaker before you hook it up to your driver - knowing that the amp works as expected will make it a lot easier to at least identify driver problems. And keep in mind, even some of us who have been doing this for years don't always get it right the first time, or even the second - I always factor some rework time into any project estimate I do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassies Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Cool Stuff, Now I think I'm in bussiness. lovekraft, thanks for the SW, it is a godsend I think. Could you please send me the layout of the Fetzer / Ruby, If you have one floating around. Just to compare apples with Apples, so I know what I'm actually doing. Regards, Tas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 Jim...you've really caught the bug, haven't you... The magnet in the core is ok...as long as one polarity is up and the other down. A ceramic magnet is ferrite so that's good...however... The dimensions...Tim's made a driver like this...I feel the thinner core design is a bit better...theoretically. Not only do the higher strings vibrate faster, but their vibrations are kind of shorter (more nodes) so a thinner core is less likely to span both a node and and anti-node in the strings vibration...if you follow me. But...hey, prove me wrong...there was a theory that a wider core would be better...that's just how I've thought about it since then. The thinner wire has proved better...I've tried thinner but didn't "work" for me (lacked power)...too thicks no good and the coil becomes larger. Although a theory was put forward in favour of thicker wire...experience has lead me to find 0.2mmm to have worked best...at least for me! On the question of power and square waves. A couple of more things crossed my mind. Those computer speakers are expecting a different kind of signal than the little ones coming from a pickup...I suspect they are optimised for the kind of line out preamped signal from a sound card...this will adversely effect the response and the loading on the guitar signal. Even though you won't hear it with your split HB configuration with the dedicated sustainer coil...the effect will still be there. Also, consider this...if you were getting a distorted (square wave) signal from a speaker...the last thing you would do (if you knew it was overloading) would be to add more power to them...If you want clean, it's not just amp headroom, it's how much the driver can take (like a speaker coil) before it distorts it. The fact that you can't actually hear the driver means that you will be unaware of the effect...but adding more power to an overloaded device won't cure it. So why clean (not that my signal is really clean...my preamp is slamming the poweramp I suspect), well my theory is that, no driver can react instantaneously...there will always be phase differences...even with electronic hocus pocus...but a sharp edged on/off type signal that's slightly out of phase will have a more detrimental effect on the sustaining function of the driver. I see the other side too...the string, being slammed by a square wave can't help but respond and fall into phase with the driver...hmmm...chicken or the egg...you guys decide. As for the 24 fretter...Sustainiac have used circuitry compensation and shunted high string coils...they have recently released a 24 fret mod. Look, I have driven strings from the bridge. And you can hear that I'm sustaining notes less than an inch from the driver. What's put forward is that the mid point (24th fret) neck pickup position is best because it gives the driver more throw (it's furthest from the ends of the strings, the bridge and nut) but this only holds true on open strings. The fact is that it does work where the effective placement (due to fretting, say on the 22nd fret) is actually at the end of the string...it just never convinced me! What is important for this placement is the maximisation of distance between the source pickup (bridge) and the driver (neck). You can sustain fine with the device held above the 12th fret...it'd look a bit silly routed there, right...not exactly practical. Anyway...with my scheme there's no preset frequency dependent phase compensation hoohaa, so everything relies on the "magic" driver...22nd, through to 28th would probably be ok...it all comes down to the distance factor, how much electromagnetic radiation it emits and where that radiation goes. Too close and it will run down that metal string and squeel like a pig. That's where the whole magnetic shielding, shunts that R.G. mentioned come in...to focus it. Oh and potting is essential...those windings will be magnetised by the current going through them and will move causing a microphonic signal that will kill high string function (it's emiting in a similar frequency range) and cause all kinds of mayhem...not to mention inefficiency. More power will only accentuate it...subtlty...that'll woo them... pete® Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Alright. After three destroyed speakers and one butchered transformer, I've found the donor for my driver wire - an old TV! Oh boy I'm walking around the house, looking for wire and mumbling to myself. Finally I found the old TV in my basement that had great looking inductor coils in it. So I took 'em. And I think the wire on one of them fits. At least it's closer to 0.2 than my previous wires. It's a tad finer than 0.2 but heck with it. "Why am I doing this?" Because I live in a small town that doesn't have shops for this kind of wire. Nor electronic components. I get my components from internet or when I go to the neighbour town. I don't feel like doing that. So I'm butchering a TV set. Oh boy I constantly have those harmonics ringing in my head. ---------- Jimbo (Okay, okay, it's actually not that bad but I'm really excited. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tassies Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Hey Jim, I know the feeling...... Have fun. Tas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Hmm... The last one with finer wire is the least efficient of them all. It doesn't seem to even pass the "endless feedback" mark. It does seem to make the note stand longer but it doesn't turn into harmonics and the cool stuff. Not even in the harmonics mode... I got 10 ohms of about 0.16mm wire, potted, with about 5mm wide, 3mm deep core. I can't see that huge of a difference to make it less unefficient than my previous attempts... Oh help me, the harmonics in my head are getting stronger! ---------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Argh, I rewound it to a 4mm deep coil. The wire is actually a bit thicker than 0,16mm. My single coil with 0,3mm wire at least worked on the lower strings. The newest driver seems to work on all the strings equally but it's less efficient. ---------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Ok, I also tried the thin wire with the single coil but it didn't work out either. Seems like 8 ohms of the thin wire is not enough turns to drive the strings... I think I'm going back to 0.3 wire, to at least drive the bottom strings. Where the heck is the edit button? No wonder this thread is 65 pages. ------------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pekko Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 There seems to be a lot to catch up after being two weeks away. Psw, nice work with sustain box. I wonder what keeps you going. Update for my sustainer project: Third driver seems to be a success. I wound 130 rounds of 0.20 mm copper wire around ceramic magnet measuring 50 x 4,6 x 6 mm (actually made from two magnets 25 mm wide). DC resistance is about 9 ohms. I potted the driver during winding with white glue. If you want to calculate the approximate number of rounds needed, you can find a data sheet for different gauge copper wires here: Copper wire data sheet I got all the strings sustaining easily, also the high e. I was able to turn the gain trimmer of LM386 to minimum and there was still more than enough gain available for sustainer. Only problem was that the system was prone to squealing, especially in harmonic mode. I added some shielding to driver wires and experimented with magnetic shunting with piece of steel. I found out that the steel piece was most effective when placed as near the bridge pickup as possible. After these procedures I could increase gain enough to sustain every string in fundamental and harmonic mode without having to fear about squealing. I took the opposite approach to installation as psw and tried to keep everything as simple as possible. Only single bridge humbucker with volume control and sustainer circuit. It's not so pretty, but everything is working ok. Maybe I shoud make a new pickguard later. You can see the magnetic shunt taped over bridge pickup. Battery is located left side of the bridge, open three screws and you get the access to the battery. Controls are master volume, sustainer on and harmonic switches and sustainer sensitivity pot. I do get a slight pop when switching the sustainer on and off, but it's only audible if the strings are muted. Next I'm going to use the sustainer for some time and see if something needs to be improved. I'll also try to make some sound samples. I also have some more pictures of different phases of the work, please let me know if you are interested in some particular part. I'd like to add that all the information needed to build a working sustainer is in this thread. And, like psw has wrote many times, the magic indeed is in the driver. Pekko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Thanks for the graph, finnish friend. Ok, the graph tells me that with my thinner wire I'm having 2 times less turns than it would be with 0,2mm. My question is - is that what's wrong with my driver? Is the number of turns that important? Maybe I should wind the thing up to 16 ohms and hope for the amp to work without significant loss of volume. Yea I think I'll go and try it out right now. ------------ Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 It's not working out! I have to turn the driver 90 degrees from it's normal position and place it really close to the low E string to get ANY sustain on the string. I smell a serious lack of efficiency here. It's not about fun anymore. It's all blood, sweat and tears. Ok ok it's not that bad, I just couldn't realise that getting audible results would be that difficult. ---------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pekko Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Ok, the graph tells me that with my thinner wire I'm having 2 times less turns than it would be with 0,2mm. My question is - is that what's wrong with my driver? Is the number of turns that important? I made my first driver with 0,3 mm wire, about 250 turns if I remember correctly. Sustain effect was very powerful on low strings but I couldn't get high strings sustaining at all. With second and third drivers I used 0,2 mm wire (130 turns) and the results were quite even on all strings. Psw has tried thinner wire with poor results. Based on these experiments I would say that 0,2 mm wire is quite optimum for the driver. As you can see from the pictures, you can make a really compact driver with 0,2 mm wire. That's why...the "magic's" in the driver. If you check out the patents, there's all kinds of wacky frequency dependent phase compensated circuitry. I've avoided all this by working on more efficient driver designs. The principle is simple, getting it just right is harder...that is...if I hadn't already given explicit instructions based on hours of experimentation: Slim blade driver, 8 ohms 0.2mm wire, very well potted on a steel core of about 3mm width and about 4mm deep. Low watt amp, no neck pickup connection, mounted near the end of the neck, either with it's own magnet or a suitably strong enough magnetic field from the pickup. All the wisdom you need is in the quote above. I suggest you to get some 0,2 mm wire and try to wind a driver according to instructions above. You can also use ceramic magnet as core material if you find something with right dimensions, that's what I'm doing. Pekko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 (edited) Let me make sure I've got this straight - from that chart you linked to, I'm reading that the .2mm wire you're referring to is equivalent to AWG32. Is that right? Edited July 24, 2005 by lovekraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 I had the same results with 0.3 mm wire, bad to no response on the high e. that was only a 4 ohm coil too. My guess is the ohmage mostly influences the power of the driver (8 ohm being more efficient with the lm 386), while wire diameter tailors frequency response. That 0.2 mm diameter seems to be pretty crucial. I'm hoping we can get to a design that has an internal magnet, and doesn't need the steel core as it's a lot less work (you don't have to cut up any steel). It seems to work just as well, my only cocern is that the magnetic field might stray more thanwith a steel core (so it's harder to shield). I'm pretty sure I can cook something up that doesn't involve making bobbins either. Let me make sure I've got this straight - from that chart you linked to, I'm reading that the .2mm wire you're referring to is equivalent to AWG32. Is that right? That seems to be correct, LK We're almost there, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimRayden Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I had the same results with 0.3 mm wire, bad to no response on the high e. that was only a 4 ohm coil too. My guess is the ohmage mostly influences the power of the driver (8 ohm being more efficient with the lm 386), while wire diameter tailors frequency response. That 0.2 mm diameter seems to be pretty crucial. ← Your experience with 0.3mm looks like a success compared to mine. You had a bad working high E. I have a bad working LOW E with other strings not working at all! What else could be wrong besides the wire? ------------- Jimbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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