LaFeeVerte Posted May 12, 2004 Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 Do I need to route the 14.5 degree angle if I use a wraparound badass/PRS style bridge? Are there any easy ways to route for this angle.. like pre-made jigs or something? I have a nice solid Rosewood body that I don't feel like messing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted May 12, 2004 Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 whoa...14.5 degree angle.... I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle. Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees. Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly) Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaFeeVerte Posted May 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 whoa...14.5 degree angle.... I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle. Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees. Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly) Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs. You may be right, in fact, I'm almost positive you are. lol Anyway, anyone know a good method or have measurements for the recess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 12, 2004 Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 whoa...14.5 degree angle.... I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle. Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees. Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly) Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs. yes i am wessomeone,and i did that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myka Guitars Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 Are there any easy ways to route for this angle.. like pre-made jigs or something? LaFeeVerte, it isn't that difficult to route the neck angle. I made a pretty simple jig for this. Here is a web page I put up for it: Neck Route Jig You can also make a template for the neck pocket and shim it to the right anlge by clamping it to the body. Then route it with a bearing template bit. Although it is a valid method I just don't like the look of the recessed bridges. It looks like the bridge was not made for the guitar and was an afterthought. Just my opinion. Hope this post helps. ~David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 whoa...14.5 degree angle.... I THINK you have NECK angle confused with HEADstock angle. Neck angles are generally between 1-3 degrees. Headstock angles can range from 0-13 (or even more prolly) Oh to get around making a neck angle..you can recess the bridge a bit. I'm not sure if u can with the wraparound PRS stle bridge...but I know the other TOM and stopbar pieces can be recessed (I think Wessomeone) did that with one of his Vs. You may be right, in fact, I'm almost positive you are. lol Anyway, anyone know a good method or have measurements for the recess? nope.... i just plan on recessing all my bridges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 I like the look of both. On the Godin LG, the recessed bridge looks really sharp. I'm still a bit undecided atm. If you were super-meticulous, you could rout the recess to *exactly* accomodate the bridge, and it would look like it was meant to be. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy_elephant Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 If you were going for a jig like Myka's, i put together a little calculation for simplicities sake so that you dont need to mess around judging angles: As a side note, im hoping this will work to my benefit aswell when i come to angling the neck. If anyone sees any mistakes please point them out. (hope this looks ok) BACK OF BODY FRONT OF BODY ____________ | ----------------_____________ X | --------------_________ angle here |___________________________________________________________ | | Y | Place body here | |___________________________________________________________| L Y is the height you have of wood at the front of the body supporting the top (probably around the height of the guitar) X is the extra height at the back of jig L is the length of the jig put the angle you want into the formula: tan <angle> x L = X for a 3 degree angle for example, with a 1m long jig this works out to 5cm heigher at the back than the front. i.e. not very much. im sure you dont need to be as accurate, its just to give you an idea. i could see myself overestimating it and ending up with like a 10 degree angled neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy_elephant Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 nuts... the drawing screwed up forget that one then sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weezerboy Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 if you put your drawings into code tags then it will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy_elephant Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 Im not sure anyone was particularly interested anyway. lol. I can explain it better if anyone wants to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 I do want to know! Please do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy_elephant Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 " BACK OF BODY FRONT OF BODY |------------_________ X | -----------_____ angle here |____________________________________ | | Y | Place body here | |____________________________________| L " perhaps easier to understand with the drawing. use a set length L and height Y (which is the height of the jig at the front) then use the formula: tan <angle> multiplied by L = X X being the height above Y for the back of the jig Note: tan is the button on a scientific calculator saying tan. that should give you the correct height for the jig to get a specific angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzy_elephant Posted May 13, 2004 Report Share Posted May 13, 2004 hows that look to everyone now? probably would have been easier to do it on paint or something. surprisingly difficult to modify drawings like that to make them look right.... the spacing gets messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaFeeVerte Posted May 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 Thanks for all the great replies/tips! Haven't been on in a few days to check, but now that I did, I'm very grateful for the help! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themikestro Posted May 20, 2004 Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 It's not perfect... but.... I recessed the posts on mine by a couple of mm so that they sit flush with the body and put a slight shim under the neck and the action is pretty much perfect. I did make te neck pocket slightly more shallow than usual though. Angling the neck would be the best option, I just didn't want to make a mess of it after spending a month on the body! Who dares wins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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