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Warmoth Bass Neck


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Hey all

this is my first post, but ive been a long time watcher of these forums.

Anyway my names Phil, im a 17 year old student from Melbourne, Australia, and im currently making my first ever 4 string bass in my shop (woodwork) class this year.

Basically the specs on this bass will be a 34inch scale, bolt on neck, sily oak/lacewood body (same wood, different name), im buying a warmoth neck with a pau ferro fret board (21 frets & paddlehead so i can cut out my own headstock design). The bass is gunna have a passive EMG HZ pup in it, and thats about it. I plan to put just a wax finish over the bass and the neck (not the fertboad) when im done aswell.

Anyway ive managed to get a few chunks of silky oak, and last night i laminated them. ive drawn up the design on MDF, but i didnt make the body length long enough, so now i gota re-draw it and extra inch and a half longer so the bridge doesnt hang over the end of the bass.

Anyway ive got a few questions to ask you guys.

1) the bridge i scored looks kinda old, the saddles have seen better days, but it will still do the job. However, i think the string-thru idea is pretty cool, so would that be a possibility for a first timer? If i do, what sort of ferrules are good?

2) When i cut the body shape out, what parts should i stop on? Re-phrasing that question, i should say what are the most common blow out areas when routing out a body? Is there any particular way i should go considering the grain structure?

3) Wheres the sweet spot for a single coiled bass? Is there any sort of formula, or position i should put this pickup? This will sound really cliche, but i want this beast to have a nice warm bassy tone, but still have a good 'nasally' tone that you would get from soloing a rear pup in a jazz for example.

4) wiring diagrams. Im only going to have a volume and tone knob, but what way should i wire everything?

5 and beyond) any other pointers you guys wanna give a newbie? what are some common mistakes you guys ran into your first time and what sorta problems do you think i personally would encounter?

Thanks alot!

-Phil

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Hello

ok i am also just on my first guitar but i will help out as best i can

1. String through isnt that hard to make, as long as the string holes are spaced well and there are no mistakes, it is easier (in my opinion) then routing for a trem in the fact that less things can go wrong , and if you have at least a hand drill(isnt the best choice) it is possible to do, but for a trem route you always have that handy cavity cover to cover routing mistakes. as for the ferules here is the place that comes to mind, there are probably more places but its what i think of,

2. Blowout spots. I would suggest checking your route depths especially if 2 routes are on either side in the same spot (made that mistake, but at least i have the hole for the ground already ready.) Make sure you dont take to much would out at once with the router since it can cause burn marks, other trivial things include let the router stop before you take it out,

3. No idea im not a bass player or builder and just a novice guitar builder

4. diagrams This page has literally tons of them, and you should be able to find some diagrams, but their mostly guitar, but you could use the 1s guitar configurations to get the jist of things, since most of the bass diagrams are mods, and special tinkering

5. for tips i point you to this thread that was opened recently that has a few good tips inside ( along with some humor :D )

and as a final thought, good luck on your project and, your welcome B)

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#3: More nasally as you put it is towards the bridge, fatter and warmer is towards the neck. Sounds like you want two pickups!

If you only can have one, place it slightly more towards the bridge than the neck IMHO.

#4 guitarelectronics.com

#5 never ever settle for GOOD ENOUGH.

What kind of finish are you looking at? I recommend tung oil!

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I'm looking at a mahogany guitar neck with a rosewood/ebony fretboard and an undrilled, paddle headstock, and it seems to me that warmoth is a good $20 or $30 cheaper than USACG... any particular reason i should spend allthat cash to go with USACG? Particulariliy since paying $450AU just for a neck shites me enough as it is :D

edit - toned down some foul language B)

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