Daniel Posted May 31, 2004 Report Posted May 31, 2004 I am going to want to do a natural finish to my guitar soon, so I was wondering what you guys would suggest. To be more specific I don't want it to be very glossy, and would rather it be more towards to dull side then glossy side. Thanks. Quote
Brian Posted June 1, 2004 Report Posted June 1, 2004 You might want to try either Tru-Oil or Tung Oil, either one is easy to do Quote
litchfield Posted June 1, 2004 Report Posted June 1, 2004 Deft semi gloss is good too. It is areosal nitro based too Quote
MikeB Posted June 1, 2004 Report Posted June 1, 2004 i liked my teak oil, its good, bit messy, but most finishes are. when its on and hardened i would rub it with high grade paper, and polish. Quote
Daniel Posted June 1, 2004 Author Report Posted June 1, 2004 Is this good? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supp...n_Tung_Oil.html Seems really easy and cheap, but usually easy and cheap mean not so good, so want to run it by you guys first. Quote
Brian Posted June 1, 2004 Report Posted June 1, 2004 Yup but it's probably cheaper at Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart depending on who's carrys the Behlen line of products. Quote
Jivin Posted June 2, 2004 Report Posted June 2, 2004 Is it true though that Tung Oil and the likes are significatly 'weaker' than say, a satin/matte finish nitrocellulose lacquer? As far as protecting goes i mean, and needs re-application every year or so? If that is true, id say it would be worth mentioning to the thread-starter Quote
westhemann Posted June 2, 2004 Report Posted June 2, 2004 Is it true though that Tung Oil and the likes are significatly 'weaker' than say, a satin/matte finish nitrocellulose lacquer? As far as protecting goes i mean, and needs re-application every year or so? yes that is all true Quote
VanKirk Posted June 2, 2004 Report Posted June 2, 2004 I have found that tru-oil is more durable than tung oil, teak oil & danish oil due to the polymerized linseed oil and varnish blend and just as easy to apply. Formby's tung oil comes close but doesn't build up as well. Teak and Danish oil don't seem to build up at all. You can use most water-based stains under tru-oil. You can find the sand & sealer, walnut stain & tru-oil at most gun shops and just the tru-oil at Walmart. It comes in satin or gloss & has a sand & sealer designed to use with the oil. You can also get it in an aerosol but I prefer just the bottle. Quote
Daniel Posted June 2, 2004 Author Report Posted June 2, 2004 Is it true though that Tung Oil and the likes are significatly 'weaker' than say, a satin/matte finish nitrocellulose lacquer? As far as protecting goes i mean, and needs re-application every year or so? If that is true, id say it would be worth mentioning to the thread-starter Is it harder to apply the lacquer? Because if there is a big chance to screw up, I might just want to play it safe with yearly application. Quote
Drak Posted June 2, 2004 Report Posted June 2, 2004 Tru-Oil is $5.00 at any gun shop or Wal-Mart, and everything Van Kirk said I have also found to be true. If you wipe enough coats of it on, you can approach a nitro gloss finish. If that's not what you want, then forget the additional 45 coats. But I'd bet there are a lot of brush-on finishes that would probably work for what you want too, and build coats faster. Tru-oil, you gotta apply your coats very thin, and a lot of them. Shellac would be an option unless you get mad drunk a lot and spill your beers on your guitars all the time, then you'd be in SRV-land pretty quick. Quote
VanKirk Posted June 2, 2004 Report Posted June 2, 2004 This is some scrap maple with tru-oil over a walnut stain and a kitten that's going to be sold to 'Yum Yum Terriyaki' if she keeps using my tweed cabinet as a scratching post. In the picture on the right you can kinda see a reflection of me holding the camera. Quote
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