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Neck Shaping?


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If I want to build a neck according to certain measurements (i.e. width/thickness at nut and heel, etc), how do I shape it? I could build a template for the neck, but its width and thickness are not constant. So, what does everybody do to shape a neck properly?

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The profile of the neck, I did mine on a belt sander, but you can use a spokeshave and just pure hand sanding

for the right taper, i took my washburn neck (since i like it) and mesured the heel, and the nut, then drew my line that way and cut it out on a bandsaw and shapped it

Curtis

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I find the measurments I want to use, then get a yard stick and draw it on the blank. Then I use a jig saw to get the rough shape (I dont have a band saw) and do the rest compleatly by hand sanding. I have a lot of time, and like to get things perfect.

-Dylan

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when doing a neck thru, do you cut the majority of the neck down to your final thickness before hitting it with the spokeshave, or do you just start carving down an 1.75"?

look in my neck thru thing ...i cut mine with a bandsaw to fnal thickness,but i don't use a spokeshave(because i don't have one...)

the last time i did it i used a router bearing bit with a 45 degree angle on it and cut away most of the excess wood,then i used a power finishing sander with 36 grit paper to get to my final profile,then sanded down to 220 with the same power sander.it was alot faster than hand sanding and seemed just as safe..i guess it took me about an hour to go from the square bandsaw cut to a finished neck profile.

one day i will learn to do it the proper way wit a spkeshave...but for now that is how i do it

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It is usually better to leave about 1/16 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch outside the line and then use a belt sander or spokeshaft from there. It takes time but its more accurate, and you really need a nice tight fit for a neck thru.

But where you attach the wings, make sure that its not too smooth otherwise the glue wont attach much. If you need to you can rough it up a little with some course sandpaper, but dont take any surface off.

hope this helps

-Dylan

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But where you attach the wings, make sure that its not too smooth otherwise the glue wont attach much. If you need to you can rough it up a little with some course sandpaper, but dont take any surface off.

a properly jointed surface is fine...there is no need for roughing up...

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i use steel straight edges and my router table to taper necks, i do the back of the neck ruff on a bandsaw if i'm going from a 1" (25.4mm) thick neck blank to a 17mm wizard neck, or i'll just use my 60 grit belt on my 24" belt sander until i've ruffed the size, then switch to 150 to touch up and get a basic round shape on the back of the neck, then spokeshave my final shape, use 6" leveling blocks to make sure i've got a nice straight back, and finally a couple peices of sand paper to work the transition areas around the volute and heel.

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a properly jointed surface is fine...there is no need for roughing up...

Yeah, I geuss it could be called extra work but it seems to dry a little quicker when I do that. Maybe not tho... I just like to do things.

I'd actually go a step further than Wes - a properly jointed surface, or planed surface is actually better than a scuff sanded face. You don't want the surface burnished or burned by too slow a feedrate or a blunt tool, but you do want it to be as smooth as possible.

The idea that roughing surfaces promotes better adhesion is a woodworkers old-wives-tale. Roughing only helps when using a mechanical adhesive like epoxy or CA, to glue disimilar materials together (eg - plastic Binding should be lightly sanded on the back face).

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