# Neck through neck angle

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its nice and easy to say just route out the neck pockets to the correct angle for bolt-ons. but what if youre making a neck through with a TOM that needs an angle? How do you create the angle on one piece of wood? The jackson Randy rhoads models with TOMs are neckthroughs, so it is possible...

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I imagine one way of doing it would be to affix the wings to the middle/neck peice at the desired angle and then shaving off the excess wood.

There would be more than one method though, so someone that has done this before will sort you out good soon. One peice of advice im sure they would give is, make sure to draw it all out, so as to avoid making silly errors. For me as well, a nice diagram in front of me makes it so much easier to picture how it all comes together.

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Im trying to solve this problome aswel because Im planning my neckthrough sg, I think one way of doing it is getting a thicker neck then normal and then cutting it at the angle until the point it meets the body

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There are a few methods I've tried with some success. First and MOST important, make sure the block of wood your are starting with is square. If you don't know what that means then you'd better do some ing. Draw the angle on each side of the block giving clearance for your headstock and also draw where your fretboard will begin and end. Basically your angle can start right at the fretboard or a few inches further into the body. Just make sure you consider body thickness and neck pickup routing. Not a whole lot of wood coming out of that area anyway but its better to be safe than sorry. You can use a protractor and a long straight edge to draw the angle but I prefer to open up my old high school trigonometry text and a calculator. I forget which formula was needed to work out the length and depth of cut, thats why I have to open the book each time.

I've roughcut the angle with jigsaw and have also done it with a skilsaw from both sides. (ya, I know, I'm a caveman) But your best method is with a bandsaw. The importance of starting with a square piece, ie. both sides perfectly parallel (depthwise) is you need them for a baseline. Cut the angle outside of the pencil line leaving 1/16" to 1/8" wood. Now that you've rough cut your angle you need to resquare your block. I found the best method for truing the face of the neck is with a bigass belt sander (belt longer than the neck). Just set one side down flat and hold the wood against the belt and sand it until you meet the pencil line. If the wood was square to begin with and you drew the angle equally on both sides then everything should be ok. But it doesn't hurt to flip it over and check the progress on the other side. ALSO, before sanding make sure the platform on the sander is set up right ie. perpendicular to the belt.

Another method for truing the face is ye olde fashioned waye. Its more painstaking and involves block sanding by hand and constantly checking your face with a straightedge and your corners with a carpenter's square. I've done it, it takes time and patience.

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Carvin sells a low profile TOM that doesn't need a neck angle.

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Not to be a doubter, but, wow really? I wasn't aware there was such a thing as a TOM that didn't require neck angle. This makes part of my project a whole bunch simpler.

I guess when I look at the TOM on my gibson, I can't imagine that being low enough to be the same height as the hard-tail on my buddy's strat, unless I recess it a bit.

Can someone who has used one of these source confirm that this TOM requires no neck angle AND no recess?

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Jivin, thats genius

i havent drawn your idea out or anything but the basic theory is so simple, and crazy, that it just might work.

that way you can easily have the neck "stick up" where the fingerboard attaches. you just stop "shaving" or planing when you get to the point where the fingerboard starts.

Rock and roll

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Carvin has been using TOM with out the stop piece for a while and the neck is not angled. They recess the TOM so that it doesn't need the angle. I like this better than the raised one on my LP, I might be doing an SG because of the great neck access on it, and I will be using Carvins neckthru neck... A few people have used it here and I haven't heard a complaint yet...

Here is the new CT6M, as you can see the TOM is recessed and it looks awsome.

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one, there is a bajillion topics on this (try the search box, and dont forget to select from the beggining and newerd (not the standard 30 days and newer))

2, angeling the wings would only work if the bridge ataches via 2 screws that go only into the wings (tom), otherwise you would haver to angle the wings and the neck block by shaving, (if using a bridge that ataches into the neck also)

also a much easier way (in my opinion) to go about neck angle is to use a dropoff where the fb starts (1/4" of the fb plus some), to get rid of the need of neck angle.

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Did mine on a jointer. Me spoiled. Took 5 min. I spent more time marking and drawing than I did working.

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how exactly did you do that on a jointer?

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Carvin has been using TOM with out the stop piece for a while and the neck is not angled. They recess the TOM so that it doesn't need the angle. I like this better than the raised one on my LP, I might be doing an SG because of the great neck access on it, and I will be using Carvins neckthru neck... A few people have used it here and I haven't heard a complaint yet...

Here is the new CT6M, as you can see the TOM is recessed and it looks awsome.

I can't see the recess on that carved top Carvin but I've never seen one up close to know for sure. That model has only been out a few months. Carvin has been using that low rider TOM for some time to avoid neck angles and routing. Feel free to call Carvin and ask them to confirm it for you.

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Carvin has been using TOM with out the stop piece for a while and the neck is not angled. They recess the TOM so that it doesn't need the angle.  I like this better than the raised one on my LP, I might be doing an SG because of the great neck access on it, and I will be using Carvins neckthru neck...  A few people have used it here and I haven't heard a complaint yet...

Here is the new CT6M, as you can see the TOM is recessed and it looks awsome.

I can't see the recess on that carved top Carvin but I've never seen one up close to know for sure. That model has only been out a few months. Carvin has been using that low rider TOM for some time to avoid neck angles and routing. Feel free to call Carvin and ask them to confirm it for you.

I already did, I was going to order from them last Feb, but I was sent to the States (I was in Germany) because of a family emergency. I had to use the money I had for the trip expenses... On the catalog before the one running it states that the TOM is recessed. in this new one says that the TOM is set in body , the model I was getting was the DC127 with the see thru blueburst on Mah with maple neck. With the options it was going to be \$745 with the ABS case...

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Very odd indeed. The mods on the Carvin forum have said many times that their TOMs are not recessed.

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Very odd indeed. The mods on the Carvin forum have said many times that their TOMs are not recessed.

Ok this made me go and pull my Carvin catalog, since I still think about getting it next tax refund, and here is the pic since my scanner is down.

Sorry is big but I wanted to made sure it was legible.

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I forget, put a like on their forum to this thread and flame them, the only one that is not recessed is the HF2 holdsworth and SC90S the Tele looking one!

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I did a search on the Carvin forum and the M-bridge is recessed slightly. However they do not sell the M-bridge as a seperate part. The TM6 that is available is a Gotoh that has the bottom milled down for the lower profile and use without a neck angle or route.

It does sound like it was designed with some pretty tight tolerances so slight differences in fretboard thickness etc might make it sit a little high so I would test fit it before finishing. You may have to sand or plane the top down very slightly.

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...angeling the wings would only work if the bridge ataches via 2 screws that go only into the wings (tom), otherwise you would have to angle the wings and the neck block by shaving, (if using a bridge that ataches into the neck also)

Um no. Because the excess in the neck will be shaved down to be fluch with the wings. I have sone this and it worked fine. I'll dig up some pics to show.

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Unfortunately I have no pics of using my flush trim bit to show how I did that part.

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What it looked like with the other wing on.

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ah, well i was thinking of something else, well nevermind

and wait he ment angle only the wings, you angle the neck too, by shaving it flush.

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