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    Bizman62

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/01/2020 in all areas

  1. "The Les Flaus" - Lucky scratch build #7 for me! FINISHED WEIGHT: 8lbs 6.9oz BODY MATERIAL: QUILTED MAPLE(CORE), 3/4" 4A QTR SAWN CURLY MAPLE CARVED TOP BODY CONSTRUCTION: FULL LENGTH HOLLOW CHAMBER ON EACH SIDE, SOLID CTR BLOCK BINDING: SINGLE PLY CREAM NECK MATERIAL: CURLY MAPLE/WENGE/CURLY MAPLE NECK JOINT: 4DEG ANGLE SET NECK NUT: BONE SCALE LENGTH: 27.5" FRETBOARD: 24 FRET FRETBOARD RADIUS: 16" FRETBOARD MATERIAL: GRANADILLO FRETBOARD FRETS: EVO GOLD MED LOW FRETBOARD INLAY: GOLD MOTHER OF PEARL TRUS ROD: AT HEAL THRU 21ST FRET (ALLIED LUTHEIR)
    8 points
  2. How much of an awesome dude is Mike Ve sent me a couple of lovely one piece curly tops all the way from Arizona. I've already put one of them to use on my upcoming SG2000 build. In other news, I've finally sold my house and found a new place so will be setting up a new workshop after Christmas
    5 points
  3. Do you remember this one?? If you recall. Tom had ordered some bridge parts and tuners from Hipshot in the States just before everything cracked off with Covid and everything ground to a halt both sides of the Atlantic... Well. they've arrived And so I've spent the last few days starting to get to the finishing stages of the build. I drew out the string runs to work out how much wiggle room there was on the tuner angles (Tom likes angled tuners): I then drilled the tuner bush holes and that let me determine the bridge blocks positions: Lots and lots of c
    5 points
  4. Had a bit of a noodle on the old girl. Gives you a rough idea of how those Trisonics are voiced. Sorry I set the cam down by my pedals. The switching is really loud!
    5 points
  5. Well we can't have Mike going unchallenged I present to you "African Bass Fula" made for my friend and gauntlet thrower, Tom. ("Fula" is the Mandinkan word, the local language in The Gambia, for 'Two') In short, Tom does a lot of work in The Gambia and knows one of the leading drum makers there. A few years ago, they unexpectedly presented him with a 'bass body' made from traditional African drum wood. Against all odds I built a playable bass from it. Everyone was delighted. So delighted that they presented him with another one at his last visit... As a post-script, the
    4 points
  6. Greetings from Opatija, Croatia. I decided to quit my job and change companies in hope I find people with better work ethics. Few months ago I couldn't imagine quitting cause I love the folks I work with, but since we work remote, they behave so irresponsible and slack most of the day and then work long hours... I couldn't deal with being most of the day at home behind my laptop anymore. Now I'm using all the vacation days I have left since summer. Decided to drive out to the coast and see if summer is still lingering around. No tourist, no people on the beaches, bars closed etc... 19 deg
    4 points
  7. Look at this way. At least you didn't attempt to mill a bunch of fret slots, break every single one on first attempt, write a strongly-worded letter to your local newspaper about the lack of quality manufacturing in your area, appear in an interview on 60 Minutes about 'the nightmare neighbours from hell', and have to explain to the police why you're running around the streets wearing nothing more than a hot water bottle and brandishing a pool cue while yelling 'HERETIC! HERETIC!'. By my reckoning I'd say catastrophe has been averted
    4 points
  8. Quick bit of noodlin' to test it out. Cheers!
    4 points
  9. Finally done! Really enjoying the ultra-matte finish, this is the first time I’ve gone “all in” on matte, as opposed to satin/semigloss. It plays very well and the Bare Knuckles sound great, but I’ll record a little demo soon so you don’t have to take my word for it.
    4 points
  10. Just a little more, compared to an R9 and demonstrating its accoustic abilities ......and by the way all the things I play are just off the top of my head. I'm not trying to play a particular tune and I haven't practiced anything and don't have anything written down, I just make it up as I go along...otherwise I would never get anything done
    4 points
  11. This is my first true scratch build. An SG junior with a P90 pickup and wraparound bridge. One tone & one volume knob.
    3 points
  12. I don't know if it is entirely a matter of language, but certainly "stability" means different things to some people. Being specific about meaning makes all the difference. Very true about stiff woods wanting to stabilise. Cut a board from a tree that has lyly, or compression grain from growing on an incline and it'll stabilise into a pretzel however stiff it is!
    3 points
  13. I finally "got'er done". They look pretty good. I figured that looking at the old holes that this is the 4th set of tuning machines to go on the ol' girl. It will most likely be the last ones. I guess the next thing will be the bridge. After that I could theoretically string her up and let her sing. Ron
    3 points
  14. My neighbours chook came in my place, didn't like what it saw and took a dump...
    3 points
  15. You should give a listen to my friend Felix. I suspect Wally would like him. Here is a link:
    3 points
  16. Dunno. Would the epoxy/carbon mix gain any more strength if the material being impregnated into the channel was something else just as pliable? Cotton rope? Nylon? Horse hair? I'm not suggesting the process doesn't add stiffness to a neck, but I'm doubtful that two epoxied-in carbon fibre strand/channels would be more effective than epoxying in a couple of 6mm premade carbon fibre bars either side of the trussrod. The example that Bruce demonstrates in the linked thread only has the fibre laid about two thirds the length of the neck, directly underneath the trussrod. Is it stiffer th
    3 points
  17. Regarding the old unfinished projects, during the summer also managed to finally complete my own pedalboard/case. Pretty minimal rig, just a mild homemade fuzz, tube driven OD, octaver that I use sparingly, just to underline a few notes here and there and a flanger to add some modulation, also used lightly... still need to add some Velcro and connectors.
    3 points
  18. Well, after waiting for the parts for a quite a few months, they showed up in a span of a few days, and I was finally able to finish the assembly and give it to my friend. His son has celebrated his 1st birthday a few days ago My friend seems to like the bass a lot, still looking for the perfect setup We actually have started a new project, I've been building him a 8-string Iceman with a reverse head for a while now, some pics to follow soon. Never enough time... Anyway, a few pics of the finished bass:
    3 points
  19. Okay, I have a lot of the hard work done. I sanded the body with 80 grit, 120 then 220 & 320. Sanded the neck and laid in dot fret markers of red oak , radioused the fretboard & put in the frets & I used toothpicks for the side dots. For my very first neck build I am very proud of what I have accomplished. Routed and carved the neck pocket for a perfect tight fit.
    3 points
  20. Today I painted the fret board straight edge to take glare out of the stainless steel. For my untrained eyes it puts a contrast on it between the fret board and the straight edge that makes it easier to see the back lit white paper behind it. First grey primer. Painted with a flat black I tired it and it works well for me. Ron
    3 points
  21. Here are some paintings I have done.Here are some paintings I have done.
    3 points
  22. Another new build, just completed... Custom KR3 6-string, based on a similar 8-string version I did a couple of years back, with Buckeye Burl on Ash body, Wenge/Maple 3-piece neck, Zebrano multiscale fretboard (26.5-25.5"), Hipshot Grip-lock tuners, Single String Guitar Bridges, EMG 81-7/707 pickups and matte PU finish
    3 points
  23. I'd start with a flat semi-solid block and some wet sandpaper, starting at 600 or so and going through the grits up to 2000 or higher. Sand in one direction only (back and forth allowed) and change the direction by 45 deg every time you go to a finer grit. That way you'll see when all the scratches from the previous sanding have disappeared. Apply just the weight of the block and level the ridges. Only when the surface is level to the desired degree it is time to buff. When using power tools there's always the risk of burning your finish. Don't apply too much pressure, use a fine enough compou
    3 points
  24. Yes Sir ! Thanks. I am liking one piece bodies. That's the way to go if you can get planks that big. I had to loose a little off of the rounded back ,but I just move the template to make it fit the width of the board. And I changed the headstock angel slightly to fit the height of the board. I made it work with I have.
    3 points
  25. Dotting done, they're going to look nicer after finalizing the radius. 3 mm brass tube for the sides and 10 mm buttons on the top. An old shirt was no longer wearable in public but the buttons looked nice so I reused them. Maybe I'll stitch some side dot plastic in the holes...
    3 points
  26. This was my first kit build I designed & wood burned all the artwork on it. Even all the brown is burned Then finished with tru oil.
    3 points
  27. Well guys the new preamp tubes came in today. I must say, this thing is frigging killer. I forgot how good one of these amps can sound. No more pops, scratches when knobs are turned. only a slight hum when at 100 watts and full volume ( expected ) OMG this thing is like brand new again. I am very pleased with my efforts and I know the Doctor will be as well. Recap of work: Replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors, replaced bad power resistors and a few others, added an adjustable bias pot, replaced all of the potentiometers, rerouted wires to minimize hum, replac
    3 points
  28. I used a clamp to the outside so that the gluing braces I made out of bamboo would not push up the guitar at the corner and create another problem, like I need any more. Then I dry fit the bamboo to make the plan of how to get them in and how to get the glue in would work. I was using the endoscope to see what I was doing. I wet a brush with water and went along the crack to help the glue flow in there, then proceeded to apply the glue from the bottle to kind of "force" it in. I braced it up with the bamboo and did a littl
    3 points
  29. Yes - a shim is perfectly acceptable. And it won't need to be very thick. It's worth trying a piece cut from an old store/credit card. Cut it to fit between the body-side neck bolts and the heel end. Even credit card thickness might turn out to be too thick! Don't use cardboard or anything similarly compressible but even some plastic food packaging trays can be useful if there is a large enough flat piece in one of them. Personally, I would never sand the angle into the heel - it is almost impossible to get it completely flat, straight and even and you end up like trying to sort a w
    3 points
  30. So my old teacher got in touch with me a couple of months ago, apparently he'd been following my builds on my facebook page taught me from about 97 - 2005. He had a 1990 cherry custom, gold hardware. Stunning les paul and I always wanted one - it had that plays itself action that some les pauls do, well out of price range of a teenager though. Anyway he got in touch because he had recently taken it to a luthier for a refret. The guy had it for months and went off the radar, when he finally got it back it looks like this. So he asked if there was anything could do to make it playable again.
    3 points
  31. Really excellent by the both of you! They're both purty too. SR
    3 points
  32. Luckily no damage , a little water on the floor of my garage (workshop) Power outages through out Louisian. Might not have power back until sunday. Hopefully not longer than that but we'll see. Thanks for your concern. Much appreciated ScottR.
    2 points
  33. You're right, they're a bit on the skinny side. There's not too much play in case you have to plane them straight if they're warped. And the fretboard has to be left thick enough, about 6 mm. Depending on the width and direction of the growth rings you may also want to add a couple of carbon fibre rods on the sides of the truss rod, otherwise you may end up with too flexible necks. Slowly grown hard maple can be strong enough by itself. At 60 cm they're also a bit short but your plan of sacrificing one bit for scarf joints and heels it might be doable. Gluing several pieces for the heel i
    2 points
  34. Unlike you may think, a dead straight neck isn't ideal for the lowest action possible! Some relief is usually needed. To understand this we'll have to figure out how the strings move. You know about harmonics, don't you? Now if you strum a string the basic sound vibrates in a shape like a rugby ball or a skipping rope - an ellipsoid between the nut and the bridge. BUT: It also spins in a similar pattern between every harmonic node! So as the 12th fret is right in the middle, the string has the waist of a sideways 8 pattern right there and the largest points of rotation are on the 5th and 24th
    2 points
  35. I got a bit more done. She’s starting to look like a guitar now
    2 points
  36. The link I mentioned *is* the Bridge Doctor, As far as I'm aware JLD are the only makers of it (although it's not a particularly complex device. I'm sure it could be DIY'ed by just about anyone). FWIW, I'm not suggesting that steaming/heating isn't performed by some in order to flatten a warped top, but it appears to be less common than resetting the neck. For whatever reason the more common approach appears to be to steam the neck off, re-shape the heel attachment faces and re-attach the neck. That may be for the reasons that I listed, could be others, I don't know. Anothe
    2 points
  37. Well it's either that or go outside and deal with....people.
    2 points
  38. I'm going to err towards the other side and say approach his method with caution. He mentions that the reason that his method of performing a neck reset works is that the area where the fretboard overhangs the body near the soundhole has sunken causing the neck to tilt forward and raising the string action, and that his method restores the original shape of this area of the soundboard thus tilting the neck back the way it originally was. In all the acoustic guitars I've seen that could have done with a neck reset the problem was not that the neck had collapsed forward near the soundhole,
    2 points
  39. Thanks mate. I'm just a hobbyist. This is my second build, there are a number of little things which I wish were better but I learn something with each build I do. The 12 string build is my third but that's stalled a bit because I've also started making a Violin as well. I've also just received the plans I ordered to make a Maloof Style Rocking Chair so instruments may take a back seat early next year when that becomes the priority.
    2 points
  40. So I am an artist, not by trade. But I have been drawing since I was big enough to hold a crayon. I paint sometimes, draw and wood burn(pyrogrophy) Here is some pictures I have made for friends and family.
    2 points
  41. Pretty impressive! I especially like your pyrography, the fifty-odd shades of char...
    2 points
  42. yeah... even I don't wanna see that... nor my wifey!
    2 points
  43. Dentists are practicing at least around here. Lord knows why--who'd want to do what a dentist does during this shit? SR
    2 points
  44. right on... well I'm gonna assume perhaps you are using a floyd then? on a floyd there is really not much of up/down adjustment other than the two studs. I would cut out a piece of paper or card stock with the correct radius and just ensure the bottom of the strings are following it, and that it matches the fretboard radius. then, I'd check the neck relief. hold down the string at the 1st fret and the fret where the neck meets the body. check halfway between those and you should have just enough space to fit a fender thin pick. then I'd lower the bridge until I got buzzing
    2 points
  45. Yep, @Bizman62 . It seemed to work like a charm. I had some squeeze out on the back as well as the front, so I'm pretty confident the brace is fixed for another 50 yrs. I have used a lot of what I learned from the RSW videos. I also saw him using an artist brush to kind of work it into the gap, plus, working the brace a little up and down to kind of "pump' the glue around. I'm making progress, all be it slowly, but it's getting done. Ron
    2 points
  46. While it was butchered, gluing frets is pretty common. Mostly for insurance along with the tangs. Doing a great job Ash! That 12th fret is BEGGING for something awesome.....
    2 points
  47. No. To my great surprise, we were tied for a pleasing number of days, but truth will always out I'm very, very happy to have got even close to a tie. That video, by the way, is the icing on the cake. It sounds scrumptious.
    2 points
  48. Unless the bridge plate has actually come unglued (and it doesn't sound like it has), then leave it in place. Trying to get it off would risk damaging the top wood but also would likely loosen some of the key braces. Don't worry that the bridges overlap a touch - if you go pinned, then as long as the pins are able to go into the plate and therefore the ball-ends are able to pull directly onto the plate then it will be fine. If you stick with pinless, it will be fine anyway.
    2 points
  49. Other than waiting on the new preamp tubes this is done. Looks great for circa ( 1989 ) and it sounds awesome again mk
    2 points
  50. First step was cutting the fret slots. I wasn't sure how to do that and figured if I couldn't work it out there wasn't much point continuing. Ha ha. I tried a few methods to cut them by hand but my accuracy was at best so so. In the end, I made up a little mitre box jig and cut it with my small laser cutter.
    2 points
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