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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Okie dokie, that's a wrap! This is really my first proper commissioned build, and I'll be delivering it to its new owner later this evening. Really hope he digs it! I sold some guitars I built a while back, somewhere around 12-14 years ago, but I've never taken someone else's "dream design" all the way from sketches to finished guitar before. Honestly it was a pretty nerve-wracking experience. This is probably the best sounding guitar I've ever built though, and has a looot of natural/acoustic sustain for some reason. I'll post some video/audio in a bit.
    11 points
  2. So I finally finished this project and thought it might be fun to post the results here despite not being active for 10 years. Here it is in all its glory! As mentioned above it's walnut and maple neck-through. Finish is oil and wax. Closeup body. The top knob is a 4 way rotary switch (Bridge HB - Split Neck+Bridge - Split Neck - Neck HB). The other two are volume and tone. Headstock. The recessed tuners aren't by design, I made the headstock too thick to fit them and didn't feel like sanding it down. Back side. Some of the more visible mistake
    6 points
  3. Welp, can't have a month go by with no entries, right? This was my first "real" commission build - I sold some guitars that I built a long time ago, but never took someone else's design from the ground up and made it a reality, so this was a new experience for me. He's a big fan of PRS guitars, and his design choices obviously reflect that; it's the Custom body shape with a flat top, basically. He had a Strat with a neck he really loved, so I took some contour gauge and caliper measurements of that and duplicated the thickness and profile as closely as I could. Specs: - 25.5
    5 points
  4. Today I took it out of the clamps and became a sawdust factory. I must say that routing cavities is my least favorite thing to do on a guitar build. On the other hand it is starting to look like a guitar. SR
    5 points
  5. Strings on at last and sounding great
    4 points
  6. The shaping is mostly done except for some minor details. It now flows smoothly from part to part, just like it was one single thing instead of a bunch of glued together pieces. SR
    4 points
  7. Next I roughed in the neck join and started in on the top. SR
    4 points
  8. Put some strings on! Screwd the bridge on! Liked what I heard!
    4 points
  9. This looks so perfectly crafted that I kinda hate you a little bit
    4 points
  10. In one of my bands, we played Iron Maiden - Rime of the Ancient Mariner. During the quiet bit with the ships timbers creaking, the other guitar player would rock his guitar back and forth on his leather strap which made creaking noises exactly like the record. It was dumb but super effective. Semi-related: -We also did YYZ, and would kick a small PA that had reverb springs during the solo where the whip snap sound is. -At the beginning of Ozzy - I Don't Know, we moved a mic in circular motions over a cymbal while the drummer used soft mallets. Sounded just like the record.
    4 points
  11. Ash's Panacea Spec Top: Eastern European quilted maple Back: American black walnut, 1 piece, ebony control cover Neck :Eastern European walnut Fretboard: Indian ebony, quilted maple binding (use up those offcuts), Abalone lam inlays, compound radius 9.5" - 12.5" 25" sclale, 24 frets, medium nickel fret wire. Finish: Pink + green stain, clear nitro on body + headstock, danish oil on neck. Nut: Bone Hardware: Schaller Signum bridge, Sperzel tuners, nickel with ebony knobs and buttons Electronics: PRS HFS + Vintage bass pickups, master vol + treble bleed, master tone, 5
    4 points
  12. OK, updated pics so you can see the properly oriented pickguard 'paint dripping' effect. And the neck, so far. I'll probably blacken out the Floyd cavity soon. Just have to decide what switches I want for the pickups and drill them. Probably not doing a slide switch here, either a 3-way toggle or 2 mini-switches I think.
    4 points
  13. A little update on why there haven't been any updates on this. Basically, I put the bridge and the tuners in and put some strings in to see if everything is aligned, and how far away the strings are from the fretboard, to see if I need to recess in the bridge a little more. I also put in one pickup to see if I have enough adjustment room on that side... So while the strings were up, I decided to put the rest of the electronics in as well, and try to play it fretless. It's so much fun, I've been doing exactly that almost every day for the past 3 weeks, and I can't get myself to taking it a
    3 points
  14. Slow progress at the moment but had a change of plan…this may turn out to have been a foolish plan but we will see how it goes. I have tipped the neck on each side and filled in the bottom sections with epoxy. Thinning the neck whilst not melting it will be the main concern now.
    3 points
  15. Finally got some progress on my LP4. The Top has been glued on for a while and today I did the initial shaping. Its a bit of a laborious method but its the way I've always done it and I'm improving each time I mark it out with lines to follow the router with, this time I made paper templates and I flip them over to get it equal each side. I first go round the edge with a Router bit with a wheel guide then change the Router bit and follow the lines This is the setup This Template matches the R9 contour at the base And this
    3 points
  16. I went and get myself a cheap bench grinder from Screwfix which I'm very impressed with - I'm sure it's only a cheap stone that won't last long but it's very quiet and very smooth. I switched it off, went and made a coffee and it was still spinning why I got back I got a flat bit online. I'm trying to avoid using amazon where possible but it was the only place I could get hold of a 40mm flat bit which I thought was odd. Ground the bit into a radius on one side by eye, then I drew round it and used that as a reference to shape the other side. Tried it out on a bit of scrap and it worked real
    3 points
  17. Here is an awesome piece called Uncle Eddie by Sergey Golovin to keep up the inspiration levels on your build
    3 points
  18. Hey thanks so much!! Thank you very much!!! I made the nut and installed the trem. Everything seems lined - up! This thing is loud man! I wonder how it sounds plugged -in!
    3 points
  19. Suddenly, trapezes make so much more sense to me.
    3 points
  20. So I actually added some retarder and crossed my fingers. Worked. We go from this 2-3 days ago: To this today, slightly darker edged version, w/ Floyd:
    3 points
  21. Asking is the path to knowledge. The splines add friction. Thus the holes in your knobs should be just a little smaller than the outer diameter of the shaft but larger than the inner diameter measured from the bottom of the splines. The ridges should cut a bit into the wood. And the split in between gives some flex. If the knob becomes loose you can carefully pry the gap more open for a better grip. Here's how the size of the hole should look (red)
    3 points
  22. Puzzle complete. Just need to epoxy some pieces. For this last round I’ll use rubber bands vs clamps due to all the body curves
    3 points
  23. I got the fretboard polished. And fretted. And dressed. SR
    3 points
  24. Got the wet sanding and buffing done today:
    3 points
  25. I should also note that I've personally only done it with a maximum of 10mm thick aluminium sheet, and even then I was taking half a mm off per pass at the most. I wouldn't recommend doing it if you're looking at shaping anything thicker, taking more material off in one go or you're at all unsure about what you're doing. Technically it does work, but the risks of things going south are much greater than routing wood. A blowout in timber may just take a chunk out of the workpiece. A blowout in aluminium may send the whole workpiece and/or the router in very unpredictable directions very qu
    3 points
  26. I even found some time to do some dotting and got started on radiusing the fretboard. SR
    3 points
  27. I finally started to work on the replica I want to build for my Dad. It was about time because I plan to give it to him on his wedding anniversary that coming early August Here is my CAD model and bellow are some progress pictures: * I changed the logo on the pickguard to spell my father's name instead of "Hopf". I kept the same style of calligraphy. I recently found a schematic for the mysterious 4 positions rotary tone switch but I can't figure out how it works. I'm trying to reproduce it in CircuitLab and it don't seems to work like intended. M
    2 points
  28. This guitar is a twin to the one that won GOTM in May. That one was for a test drive to keep in my office for potential clients and this one I sold to a client. It has almost identical specs other than a rosewood fretboard, different color and pickups. Build thread is Here. Specifications: Name: Claymore Body: Honduran mahogany (maple veneer) with grain matched cavity covers. Water based lacquer finish. Neck: Paduak (maple veneers) with flame Maple binding and luminlay side dots. Tru oil finish. 25.5" scale length. Fretboa
    2 points
  29. Minwax wipe-on poly, but the satin version. I did gloss on the first build on the front, satin on the back (satin necks feel better for me personally). But for this, I feel satin all around is the way to go.
    2 points
  30. Watching the Olympics and filling up the crook slot
    2 points
  31. I would probably advise the opposite. It's not that the pickups themselves will be microphonic. It's the natural resonances inside the hollow body itself that will be the bigger issue. Consider that to play an electro-acoustic through an amp or PA at high gain you typically install one of those rubber soundhole stopper plugs to reduce the chances of acoustic feedback. Hollow body electrics are no different and can suffer the same issue under high volume.
    2 points
  32. Beautiful plan. I've said this before ....but I think it is brilliant the way you label your shots. SR
    2 points
  33. Here’s what it looks like now. 99% of the work done. Just some finishing, fret work and action set up to do.
    2 points
  34. Not a lot of progress due to work and home projects but I did a little more crack filling and got another glamour shot wet down
    2 points
  35. Small setback after 3 (freakin!) hours of taping up the body (again). I decided to add a few small drops of black pigment to the Big Apple Red to darken it just slightly. Wellsir, that was a mistake right there. Came out like a Black Cherry look (duh...) Too dark, it lost the 'fun and cheery' look (you know, the LEGO look). BUT, I shoot color coats like that paper, paper, paper thin. So, off to the nail section of WalMart for another bottle of Big Apple Red. With no additives this time.
    2 points
  36. Here’s a quick bit of noodlin’ I recorded before sending it off - not exactly a proper demo, but i didn’t have much time.
    2 points
  37. How dare you assume that mimetolith's species it is very obviously a New Holland wide mouth frog Ranoidea novaehollandiae Tapped in dowels to fix the template to the headstock, also chucked in 4 tabs of DS tape This installation had a few components The paddle got supported by a chock clamped on, I really enjoy routing I find it so calming Nearly finished And that is all the routing done for this project
    2 points
  38. Thanks so much guys! It was pretty satisfying to try my hand at a high gloss again, it's probably been 10-12 years since I've done it. I remember why I stopped doing them (tons of work) but it sure does look purdy.
    2 points
  39. @Bizman62 The solution for drilling the holes in the knobs worked well. Made two pieces of wood with triangular cut outs to hold the knob in place in the vise, rounded them off with sandpaper to fit the curve of the knob and placed a piece of wood below them to keep it stable in the vise. The Brad point drill bit kept the hole straight and I used the dentist drill to expand the holes to the right size. The knobs can now be pressed on to the pots.
    2 points
  40. Noob question, but could this result in "clacking" or other weird noises being sent trough the body out the soundhole? Metal hitting metal (with one being firmly secured onto the body)... not sure I'd go down this route.
    2 points
  41. Whatthefu... teach me, sensei! Bravo...
    2 points
  42. Not much of free time for me this summer. I am letting the nitro dry. Meanwhile I levelled the frets and installed the zero fret. Made the waterslide decal. Designed the oval paper label.
    2 points
  43. And his guitar teacher was Joe Satriani. One of Joe's other students around the same time was a young Kirk Hammett. Small world.
    2 points
  44. Wow! I like the first pick guard best as well. It ties back to the black body nicely. SR
    2 points
  45. I should definitely go find some nice red pants and a yellow shirt. Also, I like the first pickguard more than the leopard one. Regarding the last 3 pickguards: I guess it's a question whether or not these designs can be found as an uncut sheet, so you can cut out your special pickguard shape
    2 points
  46. Looks really clean and nice and the artistic pickguard really makes it pop. And please, please, please, not the blue leopard pickguard, let's not get back to the "old ladies of the night" discussions again.
    2 points
  47. The weather has been cooperative lately, so I just shot the white and clearcoats. So the basic theme of the Sonic Crayon. The curves 'kind of' make the body into the shape of an artists' pallette. Kind of. And the pickguard I chose looks exactly like an artists' pallette too, with the paints dripping and whatnot. So, there's the 'theme' for you, of the Sonic Crayon. Probably should have shot the pic from the bottom edge so the paint dripping makes better sense. I have yellow DiMarzio pickups for it which pop the color palette even a bit more.
    2 points
  48. And if the underside of the bridge plate is painted black remember to scuff off some of the paint where it will make contact with the grounding wire so you have a metal-on-metal connection, otherwise your grounding wire will not be effective for hum suppression..
    2 points
  49. Multiple frets can be seated at any one time. Just maintain even pressure over the radius. This does chew up in the inside edge of the caul after a while, so don't use your best one. If I had gotten around to making myself a fret index, I'd have done all 22 at once....there's another thing for the to-do list. Getting closer to the finish....
    2 points
  50. I do like that bit of maple you're got for your neck, nice shimmer in the middle
    2 points
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