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    Bizman62

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    mistermikev

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Well I may as well kick things off for this month. This is my second scratch build (ironically finished before my first). I built it partly at home and partly at a woodworking club I am a part of. I made it because everyone needs a strat in their collection and it gives me some more experience prior to fully delving into more complicated builds like my 12-string Rick Copy. Name - Desert Colours Body - Australian Red Cedar Neck - Queensland Maple Fretboard - West Australian Sheoak There are side dots but obviously no fretboard dots because I didn't want to interrup
    7 points
  2. All hardware now on. Time for a weigh in. And for those of you who speak the historic language of pounds and ounces. A couple of shots from today. I'll try to get some better ones tomorrow when there is a bit more light. I just need to level and crown the frets then I can string it up.
    6 points
  3. This is my sixth build and its a custom of sorts for a friend of mine. It breaks from tradition in a number of ways. Firstly the neck is solid carbon fiber laminate from panels that I had just hanging around in the house. Ofcourse the rigidity of the material means no truss rod. Also there is no fretboard radius, this was a conscious decision based on the fact that it the neck is totally straight. Anyway here’s the specs! Carbon 01 Carbon fiber laminate neck Superglue finish Design - Bolt on (actual bolts, not screws...these were needed on account of the carbon fiber.
    5 points
  4. Hi there! We present anew the same guitar as last month in the hope that there will be more talking about it . Every question is welcome! ALABARDA Neck, back and sides: hollow monocoque structure in carbon fiber Top: carbon fiber Neck shape: thin D Fingerboard: flat in carbon fiber
 Frets: medium nickel silver
 Nut: carbon fiber Dots: aluminium
 Machine head: carbon fiber by Heart-Sound 
 Bridge: strings-through-body in carbon fiber with steel saddles Switch: 5 position
 Pickups: P90 by Electrical Guitar Company
    4 points
  5. Assembly time. Need to file a small amount off the pickguard where it goes around the bridge.
    4 points
  6. For exactly one note. And its octave if you really want to stretch the theory a bit more. As soon as you fret an F, F#, G etc, placing the pickup at the 24th fret location to specifically chase that one harmonic node ceases to have any relevance to the note you've just fretted. @Bizman62s graphic simplifies the motion of a plucked string to make it easy to visualise how a sinusoidal waveform can be broken down into its harmonic components, but that's not how a plucked string moves in real life. It's true that moving the pickup closer to the 24th allows more of the lower-order harmonics to
    3 points
  7. Yes! Especially when I added baking soda as a catalyst to fill some gaps quickly, I amost burnt my finger, thank God I was wearing gloves! Thank you!! So I scraped the binding and liked what I saw! I had to make a teaser photo to see where I was heading at! I think I like it very much!! Put some maple lam on the headstock too. Then added some binding to complete the set. I am thinking about a two-tone metallic finish... Blue for the top and back and black metallic for the sides and neck. Matching hea
    3 points
  8. I have terrible farts. Nina walked into the kitchen the other night and stated, "oh f*** you" and stormed off. Oops.
    3 points
  9. So here are the updates and the new look. This thing looks completely Jam-Band approved now, absolutely dead-on (pun totally intended) what the goal was at the beginning, tho things changed. So with the two pieces of Koa, the headstock and rear cover, I needed a third, and central, piece, to tie everything in. And, now that I have decided pickups (Lawrence L-560's) and electronics selections (EMG active, like most of my older Steerheads)... I decided I didn't need the middle pickup anymore, but I did absolutely need a 'pickguard' to 'draw in' the rest of the Koa pieces.
    3 points
  10. Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one. It's been a busy couple of weeks, but progress has been made. Got the last few frets in and got the neck pocket cut. I really wanted to get it two millimeters deeper, but the router collet was burning the top of the template and I didn't feel comfortable lowering the bit any further in the collet. I could probably rig up something on the router table to finish it out. I'm going to sleep on it. I just don't want the bridge to be too high. I've never owned or installed a Gibson style bridge, so I'm in uncharted territory.
    3 points
  11. Those are all new to me. The only good thing about Mondays is they come early in the week so you can get them out of the way..... SR
    3 points
  12. Thanks for the replies! I ended up leveling as much as I could and sprayed 2 more coats. The dimples were almost completely gone, 1 or 2 were still visible. I wasn't able to matte the low points and they're not visible at all in the final product. There were a couple imperfections from small knots in the maple but thats a seperate issue. Overall I'm pleased with the result. Here it is.
    3 points
  13. Use a brass tube slightly oversize of the screw and make teeth in it so as to use it like a plug cutter/small hole saw
    3 points
  14. 3 points
  15. I looked in on Miss Banty this morning and she hatched a duck. Very fine specimen. By noon another had come. Just a few minutes ago a 3rd. She's a hell of a sitter. I was able to hand feed her while she sits and she let me pick up a baby... for a few seconds. She requested him/her back and I complied because I don't want to lose her trust. I'm building a special pen for them because the chicken tractor won't do because ducks aren't as agile as chicks. I buried the chicken wire a foot down and I'm making a 16 foot by four foot predator resistant pen with a completely predator
    3 points
  16. 'Tis very true that you have to allow the wood to have its say in what it wants to be or at least what it can be for those more literal thinking folks. I go about deciding color schemes in one of two different ways. If I've got the wood first and then decide to use it for a build, the color scheme will be based on what that piece of wood will give. Most often it is earth tones or tones related to earth tones Those colors are inherent in wood, they being organic colors and wood being organic itself. I like blue and have experimented many times coming up with a good blue scheme and am still not
    3 points
  17. Hey gang, I'm finally dipping into building tube amps after a lot of reading and research, and I was wondering if I can post the builds here? The first place I looked was the Non-Guitar section but I don't see anyone doing amp work there; I found a post about tolexing and a couple cab threads, but the majority of topics there are about projects unrelated to guitars. Similar deal in Electronics, no amps. I know there are other amp building forums out there, but I really enjoy/prefer the community on projectguitar.com and would love to see some amp building here. Maybe if the senti
    3 points
  18. Absolutely. You can't not post from-scratch amp builds here!
    3 points
  19. Hi there! We present anew the same guitar as last month in the hope that there will be more talking about it. Every question is welcome! Taurr Alabarda Neck, back and sides: hollow monocoque structure in carbon fiber Top: carbon fiber Neck shape: thin D Fingerboard: flat in carbon fiber
 Frets: medium nickel silver
 Nut: carbon fiber Dots: aluminium
 Machine head: carbon fiber by Heart-Sound 
 Bridge: strings-through-body in carbon fiber with steel saddles Switch: 5 position
 Pickups: P90 by Electrical Guitar Company 
Kn
    3 points
  20. Finally I can say I've done something on the kitchen table too. Logo added, and final coats of nitro.
    3 points
  21. Well, good luck with it, Scott! Had some time this afternoon to put a nice smooth little carve on the top. I'm sure I'll tweak it some more (until the finish goes on, as I always do) but I think the horn will tie in nicely with the style of the rest of the top.
    3 points
  22. Build documentation follows! 25.5" scale, ash body, maple neck, ebony board. Sintoms bell bronze frets, graphtech nut, Schaller DaVinci tuners, Scaheller bridge, copper hardware from Aliexpress(!). Emg pickups, jack and switch. Shopping list: Einhell bandsaw for rough cuts (pretty terrible saw but works well enough for this) Japanese shinto rasp (perfect for neck contouring, belly cuts) Lots of clamps and sandpaper (240, 320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grits) Random orbital sander from aliexpress (Deko brand, very good quality and cost 25 euros https://www.aliexpress
    3 points
  23. I've cut the purfling channel and I'm working on the dry fit.
    3 points
  24. I made this some years ago. Maybe this time is the charm? Jet Jons Jag. Build here: SPECS: 3 piece Alder body Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock Jag bass redesign by my self. All redesign, cnc cut by me and finish work by hand. Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat. BadAss 2 bridge, EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one master volume control Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D Banjo Frets, ( John likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast) Sorry I los
    3 points
  25. First ever build done, call it "The Locomotive". Inspired by the german locomotives DB10 "Black Swan", tried to make it look sort of industrial dirty steam machinery looking, without making it into steampunk. I've worked as a welder/mechanic in coal power plants for over a decade so that helped, both in getting it done and as inspiration. I've worked from home for the last year so I thought I'd put together a small workshop for building my own guitars finally. Got the router templates from guitarsandwoods. Neck shape: baseball bat, D-ish. Copied my ESP Horizon neck but kept it chunky.
    3 points
  26. Slowly slowly getting more done. I've got my bindings all bent up to suit, including around the horn. There is still quite a bit of charring as I said before, but in going to soldier on for now. Started working on the carve of the top. Used an angle grinder with a flap disc to rough it in, then a mix of sanding, files and the plane in a few spota to get it levelled out. I feel like there's better ways to do it, but they're the tools I have at the moment. Also had a play around with colour, so I think I know where I'm going with it now. Can't wait to see the colour on the bo
    3 points
  27. I did a Keto-based eating regime for 2.5 years. Never farted once, ever, during that period. So I surmised...you can't fart fat.
    2 points
  28. Erebus #7 Hello All, I build mostly for fun and for friends in my home shop. This one is my 7th effort, based on the 1957 Les Paul Jr. I did document this build and will be starting up a thread with all the gory details in the near future. Sorry for the less than professional pics. These were taken literally at the moment of birth on my work bench Cheers! Specs: - Korina neck and one-piece body - Birdseye maple fret board - 2-way truss rod - Gabon ebony headstock veneer, neck heel, and a "screwless" control cavity cover - Bone nut - Kent Armstro
    2 points
  29. MiKro ...Got some Brass tubing, dremel'ed some teeth into it (some very dodgy looking teeth!) Drilling carefully, worked a treat! Have now plugged the holes and waiting for it to dry, before I level off and start again! got me out of a hole (boom, tisss) Learned a great skill there! (although, one that I hope I will not be using for some time!!) ...this may be common knowledge to some, but is a new one to me...so thanks! Oh well, problems are sent to test, I suppose
    2 points
  30. Nailed it! You've kept the stately look of the spruce, added echoes of the "hippy sandwich" Alembic guitars the Dead so loved and as @komodo pointed out the subtle burst just helps to gently focus the eyes on the carve. Superbly done.....of course. SR
    2 points
  31. I copied that from old Höfner and newer Rivolta guitars. It was easy to do on the miter box too!! Very clean result cutting both the margins and the pearloid! I decided to bind the f holes too. Too much superglue makes your eyes misty!
    2 points
  32. All I see is... ...which isn’t a bad thing
    2 points
  33. I mix transtint into lacquer thinner and that into tinned lacquer and spray it on with an airbrush. The mix is fairly transparent and I add layers until it reaches the density I want. Personally, I'd probably darken the grain with filler or dark dye and sandback and then go with the honey color you've done. And I'd spray a burst like that sample pic you threw up to keep it from being same same. Since you asked...... SR
    2 points
  34. Every tuner set I've ever purchased has had crap screws.... SR
    2 points
  35. Btw, engineering interference into the engine is usually just an attempt at greater torque throughout the engine's rpm band through using a smaller combustion chamber and flat pistons. Used to be, the combustion chamber was large and pistons were dished from the factory, and power enthusiasts would deck the blocks, mill the heads, put in a cam with more lift, etc and create Interference where there was none. Now it's a matter of course for efficiency.
    2 points
  36. I smoothed out my toothpick fix with a chisel and some light scraping followed by a little paste wax. I also super glued on another layer of grill cloth to the back of the grill guard. I had one taped in there for my last round of testing and didn't notice any adverse effects on the sound. Having two layers hides the speaker much better. Before I started putting parts on I gave the body a round of ceramic coating. You basically mist it on and wipe it off. Not sure how much it helps but figured it couldn't hurt. At this point it was basically assembling a normal
    2 points
  37. Hahaha get trout of here, you guys are krilling me
    2 points
  38. Yes, I bought those things probably 20 years ago, collecting dust in my P-90 box for all these years. OK, here is one where I did an edgeburst spray to accentuate the contours. I love this look and was figuring to do the same to this present one, but its not going to go down like that I don't believe.
    2 points
  39. Hey gents, thanks again for spending the time to share you knowledge on this stuff, really appreciate it. This is finally sinking in for me, I think I can see what you mean. There is some subtle grain in the wood, but there's definitely no figuring. I spose in my head before I started I thought the grain would react like figuring and the light and dark bits would accentuate, so there's where my first bit has gone awry. And I'm also now starting to get this bit too. My options as I understand it are either to accept the timber as is, or to do like you've said and accentuate the
    2 points
  40. So, a few things. Dye enhances Figure, not Grain (or Pores). You don't have any figure on that wood, so of course the dye isn't going to enhance anything, because there's nothing to enhance. It will, of course, dye the wood, but with very little to no enhancement of anything. So there's that. If you want to enhance the look of your wood, you need to Enhance the Pores with a colored (probably black) Pore Filler (I use Timbermate). About 'filling the color hole' with blue. I would be very careful about that choice and I will explain why. Just from a personal standpoint, I spend a lot o
    2 points
  41. Well, if it turns out sounding like crap, the three of us will learn something about pickup positions and how a bbq tastes when you use bamboo and purpleheart as firewood... it's all good, that's why we have this forum
    2 points
  42. How do you date a fish? Cut it in two and count the rings?
    2 points
  43. So... Last weekend I glued the neck, sanded matte and applied some more lacquer. Today I leveled the runoffs and sanded it matte and went to apply some more lacquer. Is there a "best before" date on rattle cans? These two were bought when I started this project about a year ago and both have suffered from the stuff not wanting to come out. Today's one was even worse than the first: At first it just spit something, then it started to leak under the nozzle button. An occasional spray and then stopped again, leaking more from under the button which at that point decided to stick on my forefinger
    2 points
  44. Scott, I think that's going to work out. The eased edge gives the cover plate a nice organic look too. I got about 3/4 finished with the back tonight before my hand started giving out. The horn area will be quite similar to the way it is on the front, except for the transition into the heel. The rest of the back has more of an over-square roundover, it's about twice as wide as it is tall. So not nearly as much carving as the top, but I think it looks nice.
    2 points
  45. Back on the bad old days before I got into guitar making I was heavily into DIY tube amps and pro audio stuff. Great to see something like this popping up here for a change of pace, and to stoke fond memories of firing up something for the first time without letting the brown smoke out
    2 points
  46. Did some more work. I cut for the neck tenon. Then I glued some ears to the headstock. Next I started routing the fretboard for the pearlood inlays.
    2 points
  47. Well, had my second covid vaccine shot this week, and it wiped me out for a few days. But some progress has been going on regardless. I made a maple/walnut laminated truss rod cover with a 'Z' carved into it and decided that it didn't work at all, so that idea is scrapped. Moving on... I completed the carving of the neck. I will probably sand everything up through a fairly high grit before I actually set the neck, but the shape is more or less complete. Other than the heel area, obviously, which will have to wait until it is glued in. And I polished up the wenge fretboar
    2 points
  48. Did the bridge pup route. Tried on the TVs but I think I will go for the radiator buckers for a more Gibbie feel and more split/parallel/ series options...
    2 points
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