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    gpcustomguitars

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2020 in all areas

  1. With a lot of shop time on my hands these days, since we are working from home, I have a chance to actually finish some of the stuff left on the back burner over the years. This is my starting point - a LP body and a rough cut neck with a fretboard Someone made a mistake here -cough - but nothing a few bits of veneer won't solve and then, found another neck, a reverse tele, so it got a fretboard, a piece of the Canadian walnut. some thicknessing of the LP neck headstock thinned to 15mm, and transition sanded in then glued the tel
    2 points
  2. Pfft. I put on my pants while sitting on the edge of my bed. It must be hardcore because I grunt and curse unrelentingly the whole time.
    2 points
  3. I quite enjoy it. Tomorrow my shipment of new blades should arrive, all Swiss, roundback Grobet. This should increase production by 582%. I'll probably saw right through all of the pearl, glue down another set and do a second Cthulhu, then continue on through the bench and most of my tool tabletops, through the wall into the living room, up the stairs, out the roof and into the woods. The trees will keep me busy for awhile.
    1 point
  4. I'm still trying to find a pair of pants that will fit around the wheelbarrow. LOL!!
    1 point
  5. Thanks! Unless I've misunderstood, I think that's sort of option 2?. Just to add a bit more detail, routing the inlay recesses before radiusing the board will give me flat bottoms but the edges of the recesses are very likely to chip from the router. Routing the inlay recesses after radiusing the board will give me radiused bottoms. What I am going to have a look at later today - which might be what you mean - is whether my precision router base is wide enough for me to run it on a couple of flat strips either side of the board. If so, I can radius the board and then run the in
    1 point
  6. Caught up with Snuffy and figured out what we're doing with the layout of the pots, he wants something like this but I think I shall move them all down a bit so the volume isn't quite so close to the strings. I also need to be able to fit the battery and preamp in the control cavity. I've also finalised the neck carve as it was a bit chunky at 23mm at the first fret, it's now down to 25.5mm and gradually ramping up to 23mm just before the heel, sorry no photo. I also spent quite some time on filling all the tiny pinhole voids with dust and superglue, then finally brush some sealer in
    1 point
  7. @Crusader, that's a very interesting way of building a three piece body! AFA copper spaghetti, before I started this wonderful hobby including tons of videos and such I tried to weaken the output of my €50 Applause short scale S-type by unwinding some copper.... Well, it didn't go well. The thread just didn't want to unwind so I took a knife and cut a thicker layer out, thinking that I could find the loose end after ripping the snippets out. Swapping the magnets would have been much, much easier. Not to mention that the local shop would have taken them as part of the payment for the picku
    1 point
  8. And so to the carve. First is to mark it out. This was scaled up from a fairly flat-on photo: Now the top is glued to the back, there is little to no chance of, say, a whole knot becoming dislodged. However, the brittleness and variability of the wood was going to take some patient, steady work. The thing I always think kills a DIY SG-style is when the faces are rounded and the chamfer edges aren't crisp. There are a number of ways of maintaining that but, for what it's worth, these are my main tools for the job: Spokeshave with a very sharp blade and set for quite a light cut fo
    1 point
  9. The rabid beaver feeds! Burl has good points and bad points when it comes to cutting out little scoops of wood. The good side is there is no big section of end grain to slog through at each end of the piece. On the bad side, each little cut has its own portion of end grain since it's all curled and spinning around on itself. There are certainly easier and faster ways to shape a guitar top, but much like @komodo and his four score pieces of pearl, this is what gives me peace. SR
    1 point
  10. Then, some mockups, and also I tried to use PerlenPen to pour some faux MOP into the dot positions on a piece of scrap. Still don't know what I think of it. I have some pearl offcuts I could shape into dots...somehow. Drill bits and CA? I like the brass dot I made, but the customer wants MOP look. I've drawn out the line for the body part of the line, but I'll cut that only when I have the neck ready, for the best alignment.
    1 point
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