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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/2020 in all areas

  1. That is a good looking first build. Your run in with the misplaced bridge pickup cavity is why i always tell people that the best order of operations is to rout the neck pocket, then drill for your bridge, then pickups. That insures proper placement and alignment.
    1 point
  2. I have no idea what I'm looking at, but I love it and I'm thinking of getting it as a tattoo.
    1 point
  3. The correct bridge string break placement is twice the distance from the edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. There's no exceptions of that rule. Allow some adjustment range both ways, in average the scale is 1 mm shorter for the high E and 2-3 mm longer for the low E, fine tuned from there according to the strings you use - tension, gauge, tuning etc.
    1 point
  4. Planing 1.3 inches off isn't too easy either plus there'll be a lot of unusable waste. Agreed, the block in question isn't a fancy example of quadruple A grade tonewood. Still an inch thick board of it can be used in many ways other than shavings. My cutting boards are all thinner than that...
    1 point
  5. Getting back to work on this one and did a bit of inlay cutting today. I spent quite a while working on those little abalone crescent moons, but I wasn’t able to get them consistently shaped and thicknessed, so I don’t think they’ll stay. Still up in the air on what will go into the board other than the 12th-fret quilted maple bit.
    1 point
  6. If you have a feeler gauge, file one of the blades rough and use that. I have done a set of nut files from a €5 feeler gauge set with most common string thicknesses. For a makeshift groove cleaner basically any strip of steel should do as long as the thickness matches. Maybe even the backside of a hand saw blade slighly roughened. Tru oil shouldn't be too hard to scrape off anyway. The slots are about 0.02" or 0.5 mm wide.
    1 point
  7. I’ve played guitar for 50 years, and always done my own maintenance. There weren’t any guitar techs when I started. A couple of years ago I was challenged to build a Telecaster from a kit. After that I started to build my own guitars, about one a year, changing the design each time to get closer to an ideal gigging guitar. That’s more about function than looks. Binding, for example, reduces the damage when you knock your guitar against something hard. Pickup switching options increase the range of sounds, meaning fewer guitars to carry. Two years ago I started make headless guitars. Thei
    1 point
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