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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/2021 in all areas

  1. OK, these are the finished pics, consider this thread wrapped. Everything adjusted, minor fiddly stuff done, its complete, sounds great, love it. Slurpy Lizard, rock on.
    2 points
  2. Friction. Tightening up the rod even just a little bit will bend it and force it to wedge itself against the walls of the channel, preventing it coming out. It'd be no different if you used a spoke wheel truss rod too.
    1 point
  3. Yup, Warmoth. Nearly all my necks are Warmoth with a few exceptions here and there. In 30 years I have never once had a desire to build a neck, and still don't to this day. Just no interest, its a dead fish for me, always has been. AAMOF, a great and kind soul sent me a care package many years ago with all kinds of neck building supplies in it. Everything a guy could need or want to build necks. I never used any of it, so when Shad Peters lost his workshop to a fire that took everything many years ago, I sent him a care package with everything that had been given to me for neck building in it plus some other things I didn't need at the time to help him get his workshop re-started again. Better in his hands than mine., Further up the page you can see where I added the 'eagle beak' to it before the veneer. The side adjusts only come with the double-expanding truss rods. And those are always substantially heavier than the single-adjust rods. But once you get it on the guitar with everything else accounted for, I don't think many would notice. Thanks!
    1 point
  4. a knockout finish. love it. so I see that side adjust... you prob mentioned but assuming that's a warmoth neck? I've always wondered why I can't buy those. they really are a great idea by gotoh.
    1 point
  5. The company I work for goes through several million $ of that each year.....we often clean ink from it with 97% alcohol and that doesn't dissolve it. I'd be happen to test some lacquer sitting on it and likewise lacquer thinner this weekend if that would help, and wouldn't be too long to wait. SR
    1 point
  6. I would have done a 30* Vcarve for the f-holes, then used a reverse vcarve inlay. Then done the actual f-hole cutout leaving some of the contrasting inlay as the border line That's just the way I would have approached it. LOL Looking good Mike!!! MK
    1 point
  7. I only sealed the edges of the fhole with cellulose sealer prior to glue up, I doubt you'd have any issues with that with your crazy top radius. Also, I haven't tried it because I haven't got any but I've heard good things about teak oil as a sealer for stain because it's soaks in well. Some acoustic builders wipe it round the edge of their soundboards prior to routing the binding channel to prevent tearout. Def going to try that on my next finish
    1 point
  8. To do the thicker looking natural binding I think you're gonna have to tape off the inside of the top and seal the edge before staining. If I remember correctly, that's what @Lumberjack was doing for his natural binding. I can't be bothered with all that, I just stain the top being careful at the edges, seal it and roll over the edges with 120, praying that the end grain is going to be merciful. with the f hole on mine, I sealed it by brushing on slightly thinned sealer (few coats) on all the edges prior to glue up and that works well for me.
    1 point
  9. For some reason I can't picture in my head taking a vinyl decal, submersing it in lacquer thinner, and it dissolving. I would think you're safe with that. Awesome work on the cutout, I would never have the patience to do that, they'd be pulling parts of me off the walls. I haven't seen a Young Ones episode in probably over 20 years, used to watch that shit all the time.
    1 point
  10. That's some pretty dang clean jigsaw work! SR
    1 point
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