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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/28/2021 in all areas

  1. Haven't entered the last few builds so I'll shoehorn this one in. Spec Top: Eastern European quilted maple back: American blank walnut, 1 piece, ebony control cover Neck :Eastern European walnut Fretboard: Indian ebony, quilted maple binding (use up those offcuts), Abalone lam inlays, compound radius 9.5" - 12.5" 25" sclale, 24 frets, medium nickel fret wire. Finish: Pink + green stain, clean nitro on body + headstock, danish oil on neck. Nut: Bone Hardware: Schaller Signum bridge, Sperzel tuners, nickel with ebony knobs and buttons Electronics: PRS HFS + Vintage bass pickups, master vol + treble bleed, master tone, 5 way blade, mini toggle with tuned split on pos 1 and 5. Build thread:
    4 points
  2. So here is the latest update. The front legs are turned. I cut the 6 degree angle on the back legs, cut the dadoes and routed the round-over. I also used the bandsaw to cut away some excess material on the back legs. Here are the legs. And after a bit of fine fitting with the router plane, a chisel and some sandpaper. I just need to drill the holes for the dowels in the front legs, then drill the screw holes and screw all the legs on. Next step is the arms and headrest. After the arms and headrest are done I'll start the sculpting alongside making the spindles and rocker sleds.
    3 points
  3. Just been continuing my current trend of building using odds and sods from the garage. This time with aluminium and plastic in addition to the use of left over carbon fibre from the previous build. One thing that I didn’t envisage was the fact that when working on it the aluminium heats up to such an extent that the epoxy melts and the CF lamination comes loose, for this reason I am using additional bolts for support. For the fretboard section I’m using another 6mm strip of CF and some aluminium. This will have the added benefit of providing more structural support for the tension of the strings. As you can see it’s really rough and ready at the moment, will hopefully look the muts nuts eventually. Some may question the order in which I have done things with regards to the headstock, but there are methods behind the madness. Prettyness will get their eventually, quite industrial at the moment
    2 points
  4. Sure! I didn't get a picture of this particular guitar in that stage of the process, but this is what it looks like from another one of my builds: I tape off everything but the areas that will remain natural with automotive-style pinstriping tape, then seal the natural areas with a few coats of something clear (sanding sealer, acrylic, lacquer, whatever will work with your top coats). Then I stain, but since the binding or surrounding areas are sealed in a few coats of clear, any dye that gets on them can easily be wiped off while still wet, or scraped when dry since it can't sink into the wood. I'm sure there are other methods, but for that PRS-style faux binding this is the only thing I've found that keeps the lines crisp and clean. For this build I didn't seal the neck/tenon area though; I just taped it off with the same pin-striping tape I use on the binding and when I got close to that neck/top joint I switched from my dying rag to a little paint brush. The grain of the top and neck are perpendicular and are also separated by a glue joint, so taping it off and carefully bleeding the dye along the top up to the joint kept it clean.
    2 points
  5. Bonjour, I'm back. Meet HEPHAESTUS Type: Telecaster Body Materials: Solid Ash (Live Edge), Steel, Bismuth, Epoxy Resin Neck: Maple + Rosewood (pre-fab) SL: 25" Weight: A lot (haven't checked, but it's heavier than a Gretsch Parts: Rejected Korean Factory Bigsby, Wilkinson Roller TuneOMatic Bridge, Wilkinson Locking Machine Heads, CTS 500k Pots, 3-way Switch, Irongear 'Blues Engine' Twin-Humbuckers (series), Treble Bleed Mod (Bridge only) Hephaestus, the Greek God of fire and blacksmithing, was the inspiration and namesake for an idea I had about 6 months ago. I actually started a thread here for the build, but got distracted as I have entered this guitar into the 'Kit Build' of the "Great Guitar Build Off 2021"! (and updating both journals was really hard! The full progress was documented on my new YouTube channel here:
    2 points
  6. I even found some time to do some dotting and got started on radiusing the fretboard. SR
    1 point
  7. Lil bit of progress, neck & fretboard coming along. I'm hoping that with sanding/radiusing the fretboard the inlays will sharpen up. Sorry for picture overload of boring stuff, but I'm using this site as my personal build journal
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. Thanks bud, I'll keep those pointers in mind on the next one
    1 point
  10. Totally tasty! And I can't see the scratch or the place that wouldn't take dye. If I can't see them they can't be a problem. SR
    1 point
  11. Great entries again this month. Ash’s build in particular is beautiful work
    1 point
  12. Cheers Prestheta and Bizman, I love the cheesegrater,, I use it as well a rasp and spokeshave for necks. I agree that there are so many ways to carve a neck, it really comes down to personal preference. Sculpting the neck I find to be one of the most enjoyable parts of guitar making, seeing and feeling that neck coming into shape is a great experience. I wonder if the choice of music you listen to while you do it can influence the outcome.
    1 point
  13. Yes, there’s no truss rod. It worked in the last build so I’m trying it with this one too There’s the fretboard section that is going on top which is another carbon fiber and aluminium sandwich, so I’m not too worried about tension issues, it’s always at the back of the mind but it should be fine I reckon. In terms of routing, that would certainly be a lot of work No tenon, it’s just a bolt on design.
    1 point
  14. That is seriously cool. Am I correct in assuming the aluminium core of the neck means you wont be bothering with a truss rod? What about routing the aluminium and carbon fibre, are you going to be routing it out to get a pickup over the neck tenon? I'm both scared and excited.
    1 point
  15. I’m bolting it to a hollow centre block of aluminium, with some wings bolted on…possibly separated a little so you can see the bolts, although not sure yet. Shape isn’t decided yet. On a different note I’m thinking a 2K finish would be good for the neck, considering the overall vibe and the materials. Maybe on the body too. Obviously this isn’t the full width of the neck, still lots of work to do. But I love me a challenge.
    1 point
  16. really throwing tradition to the wind - alum, carbon fiber, plastic - I like it. I imagine aluminum would make a challenge for wood glue too... you could probably heat it up just sanding it - enough to loosen the bond. looking fwd to seeing what sort of body you will marry to this.
    1 point
  17. Calling her done for now, not totally happy and never rushing a finish again. I've still got fine swirl marks visible on close inspection. Using my cheap machine buffer saved me a lot of time but certainly not a better result that what I was getting by hand. Also got that scratch thing next to the blade switch which haunts me every time I look at it. and that weird spot behind the bridge that wouldn't take stain, I put some purple tinted lacquer on it but while levelling and buffing it seams to have turned green. Anyway, despite all the bits I'm not happy with, it does sound fookin' tasty through the MT15 and rings on forever, I think my neighbours were thrilled with me today because I rocked out on it for a good couple of hours. Love the ebony top hats and tuner buttons, even the switch tip is ebony, I had to file down the blade to make it fit It has two PRS humbuckers that I had, wired like a cu24 with the addition of a mini toggle to split the neck and bridge when is positions 1 and 5 only. It's a double throw switch so I've got a different resistor for each circuit so for tuned coil splits. When I was wiring it up I was testing it with just one pup wired at a time when meant I could A/B the split vs the tuned split and interesting to hear the result - bit less hum, tiny bit more bass with not as much volume loss but still more spanky than in humbucking. Enough woffle, pics!
    1 point
  18. Got the top stained and sealed: Fretwork done as well: Sealer sanded flat, top coats applied and dried: On to wet sanding and buffing!
    1 point
  19. yeah that's a good assumption, I often find taking pics with the iphone changes the colour significantly, I need to use something with a manual white balance. It makes filming really easy though. I've made some progress on the clear, I've got 3 coats on now mixed to around 60/40. Started to get a good gloss on the front sides and neck but the back seems to be really sucking it up, weird because I've spread a heavy coat of sealer on it this morning. I've got some orange peel, but it's much smaller nibs than what I have got when spraying previous builds. I expect this is mostly down to technique now but I still feel that this just chucks the paint on with too much pressure and that isn't something I can control. Vid below of coat 3.
    1 point
  20. Done some staining with Angelus dyes. First stained it Rose, then sanded back with a mirka pad. If I'd have left it like this my daughter would have been very happy. Then mixed light blue with netrual (diluted) 1 part blue to 2 parts neutral, and added a tiny dash of yellow and went over the top. Not the scratch below the blade switch, annoyed I didn't see that earlier, it's causing me no end of problems. Also note that weird light spot near the seam. Dunno what that is, thought at first it might be glue squeeze out that I didn't get, but there are several other smaller areas that wouldn't take stain so I dunno. I also used so little glue that I could have been accused of starving that joint. Sanded back the natural binding with 120, then finessed up to 320. Very happy with the binding, probably my best work. But I tried to get that scratch down by the blade switch, and removed it but ended up putting a slight ridge/low spot right under the switch. I was sanding only the scratch because that area is so thin that I daren't risk sanding any closer to the bottom screw hole. Restained that area which is noticable, so I'm pretty hacked off about that, I don't think there is much I can do about it though, so just went with it. Maybe I can build the area back up a bit with drop filling, dunno. This is after 5 coats of rattle can sealer, definitely noticing less orange peel than I was getting before. could be the booth, could be technique, I certainly have better light now than I'm used to. The booth did a really good job of extraction too - came back 5 minutes after spraying having left the fan running, all I could smell was what was off-gassing from the work piece
    1 point
  21. Carvin’ time. Profile roughed in. Profile and volute/headstock pretty close. Volute medal inlay and tuner holes finished. Carved a little wire spooling and outlet area for the neck pickup. Made a truss rod cover from left over fretboard rosewood. Side dots. Neck glued and roughly shaped in. Current state of things. My goal is to be spraying finish this week, so I’ve got a lot of work to do!
    1 point
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