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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2021 in all areas

  1. In one of my bands, we played Iron Maiden - Rime of the Ancient Mariner. During the quiet bit with the ships timbers creaking, the other guitar player would rock his guitar back and forth on his leather strap which made creaking noises exactly like the record. It was dumb but super effective. Semi-related: -We also did YYZ, and would kick a small PA that had reverb springs during the solo where the whip snap sound is. -At the beginning of Ozzy - I Don't Know, we moved a mic in circular motions over a cymbal while the drummer used soft mallets. Sounded just like the record.
    4 points
  2. Noob question, but could this result in "clacking" or other weird noises being sent trough the body out the soundhole? Metal hitting metal (with one being firmly secured onto the body)... not sure I'd go down this route.
    2 points
  3. Asking is the path to knowledge. The splines add friction. Thus the holes in your knobs should be just a little smaller than the outer diameter of the shaft but larger than the inner diameter measured from the bottom of the splines. The ridges should cut a bit into the wood. And the split in between gives some flex. If the knob becomes loose you can carefully pry the gap more open for a better grip. Here's how the size of the hole should look (red)
    2 points
  4. true. this is only my second time doing it and what I've learned is that I hope I never have to do it again! seriously tho... maple is really a dif animal than ebony or rosewood -if it chips you are not going to hide it at all. I took great care to not pull any chips out... it was slow and a lot of work. ended up buying those step mac chip preventers and they worked pretty good altho I didn't use the sm puller - just heated em up and worked the edges slowly with a razor blade.
    1 point
  5. Pulling and reinstalling frets is valuable experience. I'll be willing to bet you've learned a bunch of stuff you wouldn't have otherwise. SR
    1 point
  6. Just hunted around in the scrap box for a spalted cutoff piece. Still needs a tiny bit of trimming, but good fit, good color match. I'm going to lacquer it up before I glue it in, then I'll put the template back on and re-route it.
    1 point
  7. I will tell you what definitely will produce clacking, when your guitar hits the ground from some junk-ass strap button. This is secure, and follows my formula of function over cosmetics all day long. Functionally, it's as secure as you could ever hope for. Cosmetically, up to you.
    1 point
  8. That's another good question. I've experienced quite nasty noise from locking strap buttons when the vaseline wears out. Instead a locking hook a leather belt might work, similar to a bag handle. At least it would be less noisy and less chewy.
    1 point
  9. Yep, I am sure there are a lot of us who are waiting in suspense to see what journey the carve is going to take this instrument on,
    1 point
  10. Far too subjective a question that has fully grown ass men throwing things at each other. Bit like football.
    1 point
  11. Now that you said that, I realized that you didn't. Carving the tears or rather a tear shaped rod shouldn't have been too much of an effort compared to carving the tear shaped holes! The shape looks easy but getting the points point to the same direction is a task I've heard highly experienced luthiers struggle with.
    1 point
  12. Oooh! They're pretty! First thing to do is to find the center, then drill a hole of the right size. A drill press and a drilling vice with triangular notched jaws would help in getting the holes straight. For finding the centerline you'd need a set square with a 45 deg angle in the handle and a straightedge. I'll draw... One notched block in your vice should keep the knob upright! Draw a couple of lines and mark the crossing for your potentiometer hole
    1 point
  13. Knobs: I received some knobs from a local supplier. I’ll do a mock up once the danish cures. How I go about preparing them for fitting to the pots? They currently have a flat bottom. See the pictures below.
    1 point
  14. OK, updated pics so you can see the properly oriented pickguard 'paint dripping' effect. And the neck, so far. I'll probably blacken out the Floyd cavity soon. Just have to decide what switches I want for the pickups and drill them. Probably not doing a slide switch here, either a 3-way toggle or 2 mini-switches I think.
    1 point
  15. So, I think I found the right Belew 'compliment' pickguard. That brings the 'zany whack' to the black-white. The 'grab that mic' colorful antagonist to the stern order of the black-white supporting cast. Oh yess, My Preciouss...I think so...
    1 point
  16. It's not necessary, but you might want to consider doing it for appearances sake. Some people find it looks a little more streamlined when the tangs aren't visible on the fretboard edges.
    1 point
  17. Changing the fix to a feature, luthier's rule #1
    1 point
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