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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2021 in all areas

  1. How dare you assume that mimetolith's species it is very obviously a New Holland wide mouth frog Ranoidea novaehollandiae Tapped in dowels to fix the template to the headstock, also chucked in 4 tabs of DS tape This installation had a few components The paddle got supported by a chock clamped on, I really enjoy routing I find it so calming Nearly finished And that is all the routing done for this project
    2 points
  2. I went and get myself a cheap bench grinder from Screwfix which I'm very impressed with - I'm sure it's only a cheap stone that won't last long but it's very quiet and very smooth. I switched it off, went and made a coffee and it was still spinning why I got back I got a flat bit online. I'm trying to avoid using amazon where possible but it was the only place I could get hold of a 40mm flat bit which I thought was odd. Ground the bit into a radius on one side by eye, then I drew round it and used that as a reference to shape the other side. Tried it out on a bit of scrap and it worked really well. The only trouble was that I was getting a bit of tear out at the front and back - where end grain appears. So I sharpened it as best I could on my oil stone, essentially just took the burr that the grinder made on the back. Then did a second test, also this time extra slow, next to no pressure and got a much better result, end grain a bit rough but nothing a bit of 120 wouldn't sort out. I'm liking this method - much safer than a router, I can do it after carving and I can angle them if I want to by angling the table on the drill. I also got the pocket routed This is a nice bit of maple, hard to see from all angles but the flame stretches then entire width and perfectly perpendicular to the centre line. The only thing that's proving to be a real pain re centre line is that it's a 1 piece top and body so I don't have any seam to help me if I lose centre, so I have to keep redrawing it when I do something like carve the top or route the pocket. Carving with thumb planes is quite nice though, the grain direction is nice and predictable with no centre seam to throw me off.
    2 points
  3. Next I roughed in the neck join and started in on the top. SR
    1 point
  4. Put some strings on! Screwd the bridge on! Liked what I heard!
    1 point
  5. It’s been a busy summer and I have been playing a lot of music! Finally getting to use these things I build.. fun! The charred tele is developing quite the patina-I’m into it! CNC issues plus packed schedule have combined to keep me away from this build, but I took another stab at it today and it’s on its way again. this time using a beautiful lightweight piece of Doug fir for the body. It’s splintery though! Will have to be careful not to chip it a few minor design tweaks-I narrowed the body. It’s about the size of a mustang now. And I widened the string spacing-played a guitar with a wide nut and saw the light. Going 1-9/16 string spacing and 1-13/16 nut, with 2-1/4” at the bridge. I have been lurking—you are all up to some really good stuff!! Nice to see the forum buzzing.
    1 point
  6. I'm unsure as to what white to use, however I'm leaning towards RAL9003 Signal White. The final aging process will add in an ambering, so starting with a warm white would defeat the purpose. After all, the areas of Frankie that are worn through to the white show a reasonably clean bright white.
    1 point
  7. I have never played one so I can't really speak on them however I did a lot of searching youtube when he asked for the guitar, couldn't find a bad word said about it.
    1 point
  8. Thanks so much guys! It was pretty satisfying to try my hand at a high gloss again, it's probably been 10-12 years since I've done it. I remember why I stopped doing them (tons of work) but it sure does look purdy.
    1 point
  9. Now that's good news to start the morning with! Those knobs really are pretty and now that you've got them drilled they're also useful. I guess sandpaper is a better choice as steel wool tends to wear and leave tiny bits of steel everywhere which can make the surface look dirty - even more if they start to rust due to humid weather or such! If 2000 grit levels the surface without scratches it's a good grit, there's no stone carved rules. What works with you is good. A thinner mix for the final coats is common practice.
    1 point
  10. @Bizman62 The solution for drilling the holes in the knobs worked well. Made two pieces of wood with triangular cut outs to hold the knob in place in the vise, rounded them off with sandpaper to fit the curve of the knob and placed a piece of wood below them to keep it stable in the vise. The Brad point drill bit kept the hole straight and I used the dentist drill to expand the holes to the right size. The knobs can now be pressed on to the pots.
    1 point
  11. Today I took it out of the clamps and became a sawdust factory. I must say that routing cavities is my least favorite thing to do on a guitar build. On the other hand it is starting to look like a guitar. SR
    1 point
  12. Okie dokie, that's a wrap! This is really my first proper commissioned build, and I'll be delivering it to its new owner later this evening. Really hope he digs it! I sold some guitars I built a while back, somewhere around 12-14 years ago, but I've never taken someone else's "dream design" all the way from sketches to finished guitar before. Honestly it was a pretty nerve-wracking experience. This is probably the best sounding guitar I've ever built though, and has a looot of natural/acoustic sustain for some reason. I'll post some video/audio in a bit.
    1 point
  13. I got the fretboard polished. And fretted. And dressed. SR
    1 point
  14. your welcome for the reason to build another! (please return the favor some day - like I/you need any encouragment)
    1 point
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