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  1. Bizman62

    Bizman62

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/07/2021 in all areas

  1. @Bizman62 @curtisa Insulation tape worked like a charm. Easy fix!
    1 point
  2. I wouldn't use that phrase until you utterly fail for our amusement. Which I hope won't happen. We have a one word translation for Schadenfreude. I've always wondered if that's something that native English speakers never feel! A primitive Fenno-German state of mind that the Brit-'Muricans sitting on a higher branch of the Tree of Civilization have no personal experience of?? Then again, the latter also don't seem to need to put their smaller children somewhere outside home during the working hours, hence Kindergarten. Either one of the parents doesn't have to work or if both do, they can afford a nanny - which after Brexit may have become too expensive as the au-pairs have to be paid some serious money. Maybe that will bring a new word to the English language? Infantinarium? Kiddygarden? Childjail?
    1 point
  3. Those, or peeling the copper tape off the hole. Wood is insulating as such.
    1 point
  4. You sir, have nailed the intent, hit the nail right on the head. I'm not familiar with that model but I looked it up, and it does look much like what I'm shooting for. Now we have to see if I can pull it off. SR
    1 point
  5. Just for better understanding why, here's a half cut sketch looking from the cavity:
    1 point
  6. For this once. Usually I type so slowly that there's three answers before mine. A simple solution is to wrap some insulating tape around the jack to sort of a lose hose so it can't touch the cavity. The thread protruding the body is already grounded so that needs no addressing.
    1 point
  7. Back to normal programming. I'm working on aging two tone knobs. I think I need more grey-black finger gunk in the embossing. Brown isn't "it". Everything is done with garnet shellac, so it's easy to modify or clean off entirely, plus will wear with actual wear. Not sure if I want to tea stain them, but it's worth a shot to get a feel for that method. Not sure how it will interact with the shellac treatment.... Gaffer tape over the top horn. Because you absolutely have to. I mistakenly ordered 6x10mm brass bar instead of 6x3 or 10x3 (yeah, very me) so I am repurposing an unused brass fret press insert that happens to be 3mm. It was the (Fender) 7,25" radius caul, and hey, who uses these silly sizes these days anyway right?
    1 point
  8. No need to remove any of the shielding. Just need to make sure that the tip connection of the jack (and also the tip of the plug once it's inserted) cannot come into contact with the shielding that's already there. Reinstall the jack and insert a lead. See if/where the jack is contacting the shielding and treat it accordingly. Edit: @Bizman62 beat me to it.
    1 point
  9. Exactly that. There's many protruding spots in the jack that can touch the walls of the jack cavity and sticking the plug in can spread them even more. So if any part of the tip (hot) connector - solder, bare wire, lug - hits the copper shielding it's immediately grounded causing the signal to vanish.
    1 point
  10. I think you've done a bang-up job so far--this thing looks great! SR
    1 point
  11. Not an idea, that's something you'll have to figure out by yourself. But here's an idea about testing without damaging: Stickers! There's self adhesive plastic film in all colours, maybe even ready cut Roman letters. It's also easy to cut thin stripes to mimic the fishbone. They'll last long enough for you to pose in front of a mirror or look at the guitar hanging on the wall for a week or three.
    1 point
  12. I got in a bit of progress on the Big Les Paul before my little holiday at the dream hotel. I've routed round the edge of the top so it sinks into the body 1/4". A couple of reasons for this I want to take advantage of the 7/8 thickness and instead of having a centre block it will be incorporated into the top. I kind-of did this with myES but I didn't think it through well enough. This time it will be wider and I might extend it to the back The other reason (apart from extra strength) is so the effective thickness of the top is a normal 5/8. When its thicker you can have a bigger belly but it alters the neck angle and throws all sorts of spanners in the works An explanation of why I find the balance line on the body, I theories that its the best place for the Bridge because that's where my solid LP bodies seem to balance (before the neck goes on) 252mm from the neck join Something I also consider is an Es175 It is fully hollow and joins at the 14th fret, Es137s join at the 16th fret which has a mahogany block that extends only to the Tailpiece which would shift the point of balance forward My thinking is If a guitar is fully solid or fully hollow it shouldn't affect where it balances, but start messing around with semi hollow and things will change By the way the neck block as you see in the photos will get removed because I messed up and there is about a 1/16th gap, and I don't want to reduce the top any further. A shame really because it took a lot of effort to make it fit Not sure where I'm going with this one at the moment. I might make another neck specifically for it in the style of an accoustic without a long tenon. In that case the neck I've made for it I will use on another project I don't want to put f-holes on this one. I want it to look just like an LP, and want to avoid all the f-problems
    1 point
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