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  1. Prostheta

    Prostheta

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    Andyjr1515

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/13/2020 in all areas

  1. And so, as a post-script. P and his delightful wife arrived last weekend to pick up the Guitar Bouzouki. And I think he would be happy in me saying he loves it For me, that is a great pleasure and relief in equal measure! P was able to bring his standard Irish Bouzouki for me to have a look at and listen to and that was fascinating. We both agreed that the Guitar Bouzouki has a much richer sound (which would be hoped and expected) and a strummed chord just goes on, beating sub-harmonics all the way, for a long, long time. The neck between the two instruments was quit
    5 points
  2. Time to rout the cavity cover recess! Template copied from the laser-cut acrylic to plywood. Also, nice error that I had to fill with polyester.... Using my short template copying bit, I bottomed out the cutter on the surface and locked off the plunge base.... ....I then inserted a cutoff of the brass between the turret and depth stop, and adjusted the stop until the brass stays in place.... ....which means the depth of cut will be exactly the same depth as the thickness of the brass.... ....like that.
    4 points
  3. So, I've got a lot of stress at work, really over the top. I've been in a pretty sour mood, and my wonderful wife listens but also tries not to prod the bear. Last night, she said "well, I guess it's time to build another guitar."
    3 points
  4. While I was waiting word on a possible bridge replacement, I decided to work on the back of the guitar to help make it look better. I used 400 grit sandpaper and a tiny bit of water, to help the sandpaper from loading up with sanding dust, and went over the whole back, then I applied some chrome polish to it in quarter sections then hand buffed it to a shine using a shop towel. It's no where near where I want it to be, but it's looking a lot better. There is a shine to it but the camera would not let me shoot it because of the glare off of the surface, so I had to get the sun behind m
    2 points
  5. I was actually just watching that video - the stars must have aligned There was a white paper written some time ago by an application engineer at SBE Electronics (which used to be Sprague, who made the orange drops) regarding this very topic. The crux of their explanation was that the manufacturing processes at SBE/Sprague could never distinguish the outer foil location of their caps, and the black line is not an indicator of the outermost layer location. He doesn't go into exactly what the black line was used to signify which perhaps muddies the waters a bit, but anyway... Further,
    2 points
  6. This is my first build and has been a project on and off the past year. It's been more of an experimentation of style and mechanics rather than a set plan. So lots of attempts at things and then redo, redo, redo, etc. Artistically it evolved into something that, to me at least, brings the America of 1930's together. Earthy farmer worn to the raw bone dressed in the niceties of the gilded art-deco of 1930s refinement. Something akin to a Chicago barren that has achieved his version of the American dream. For the pickups I decided to hide the Jazzmaster in the neck position and only ha
    2 points
  7. I mentioned in my other build, that I've been playing these a lot and the neck profiles needed their final tweak. This one had a fat U profile, that was more refined than a baseball bat, but still too deep. It played very well, but depending on where your thumb was placed made transitions a little trickier than needed. Great for rhythm, not so great for delicate passages like White Queen off of Queen II. So, a sharp scraper and a bit of critical attention (not to mention a big gulp as I scraped the smooth oiled and polished ebony), I took the U down right down the center line. It fi
    2 points
  8. Font Awesome, is a font being used to provide all the icons. is failing to load, so all the page icons, text editor icons etc are missing. That will be occurring on all browsers.
    2 points
  9. As somebody who loves knowledge and geeks out on subjects, this makes my morning coffee that much more fun. I also came across references to pre-Inca civilisation brain surgery being more successful than that until the 20th century, mostly down to quality of work and infection prevention, coupled with the use of Obsidian implements. Mesoamerican and south American civilisations were amazingly advanced and so under-represented in the human timeline.
    2 points
  10. I'd just like to congratulate you on the most concise update of the thread so far It's always interesting to see the extremes of method between yourself and @ScottR. This is a seriously lovely looking bass though. Can I have it? It would make a lovely stable-mate to my SB-1000
    2 points
  11. I'll try that excuse by Nina and see how far it gets me. Likely, one knee up and two metres down.
    2 points
  12. Well, I've tried that technique in the past, and I haven't found a guitar, a gnome, a beer or diddly squat in the wood...
    2 points
  13. Many thanks! And yes - I know exactly what you mean. It's a good analogy. P picked it up yesterday - happily, he was delighted with it Phew! He also let me record him playing it - I'll post the clip shortly.
    2 points
  14. 2 points
  15. Sounds like you might need to enact the second level of not-blokeyness: ask the manufacturer. It's OK, we'll understand
    2 points
  16. More progress: neck glued, finish dried.
    2 points
  17. I'm no authority, but I can tell you that early les pauls varied a lot in thickness... however I believe they are all generally in the 2.0 to 2.325 range when including the carve. I would be surprised if there were any as thin as 1.75 including the carve. Over at mylespaul.com there is a lot of cumulated knowledge and many drawings and measurements from actual les pauls from that era. There are even drawings of cross sections of a les paul trying to dial in the minutia of the exact carve and those are generally at full size. generally the construction is based on availability of wood
    2 points
  18. I've been telling people that there are two kinds of people in this world: people who will build a guitar during the pandemic, or people who sit on their couches and watch Netflix. I'm proud to be in the former group with you all! The Black Queen Woods: - Macassar ebony neck and body core, and tremolo cover - Swamp ash wings, quilt maple top, - Gaboon ebony fret board with silver wire starfield inlay, and pearl 'planets' Scale length: 25" Special bits: Authentic Trisonic pickups hand-made by a gentleman who builds Red Special replicas and uses the spare parts bought from
    2 points
  19. Well, I may as well kick things off. May I present, "Its-a-what?" It is in fact a Guitar Bouzouki. The playing geometry of an Irish Bouzouki matched with the modified body design of a steelstring OM acoustic. I confess, when P asked me if I could make him one, my reaction was indeed, "It's a what??" It's my fifth acoustic build - and definitely my first Guitar Bouzouki In terms of other builds, what started as an urge to mod and improve my own guitars around 10 years ago led to builds for myself and band-mates and then occasional commissions such as this. Vital stats:
    2 points
  20. This restoration is coming on very nicely, by the way
    1 point
  21. Boy howdy, that sounded so good. It sings forever. Great job @Andyjr1515 . I'm speechless. Ron
    1 point
  22. All of the electrolytic caps are now replaced. Adjustable bias part I made is wired in place. Pots are cleaned. Now to reinstall this and check /set the bias with the new tubes. Oh boy such fun. LOL!!! MK
    1 point
  23. Some more progress last Saturday: Pickup cavities routed. Had to make the template first and I must say the fitting is snug! Masking tape and super glue was used to keep the template in place and for some odd reason the 3M masking tape ripped some fibres off. Pushed them back in with CA but I may have to plane the body thinner for a better fix unless the radiusing I've planned takes care of the issue.
    1 point
  24. Former geologist here. Obsidian in not crystalline. It is the nature of the silica bond that allows for such a sharp and fairly durable edge.
    1 point
  25. One option is to buy sandpaper in rolls. They come in various widths making it easier to match your sanding block. That way you can easily cut disposable pieces instead of partially ruining a large sheet. Another option is to get a cabinet type system for used papers as well. Marking the grit on smaller pieces is clever.
    1 point
  26. This is so bad I have to share (from Fremantle, Western Australia) One of the comments below "He's got his ticket to Valhalla that's for sure"
    1 point
  27. I'd be more concerned that the effort in hand marking and drilling each pair of holes accounting for the scale lengths being outside the edges of the fretboard, in order to define each angled fret slot is as much work as just hand slotting the board using a printed template as a guide. The potential errors introduced in the two converging rows of alignment holes might be difficult to reign in as well. It's a neat solution, but it does seem to over-complicate the jig.
    1 point
  28. Kemp Guitars = clean, clean, clean! Beautiful work sir!
    1 point
  29. I fully agree. And if the accuracy of the slot were so important for getting it just right, wouldn't reinstalling the blade after cleaning ruin the effort? Not to speak about changing to a new blade? I smell the fishy aroma of snake oil in the accurate slot thing!
    1 point
  30. well sir I'll have you know I am an EXCEPTIONALLY DUM DUMMY (I EVEN SPELL DUM WRONG)! I'm in a whole nutha class of dummies. (BTW, why isn't it dumbies, or IS it?) well, the accuracy of the slot does indeed prevent more tearout... but I have to think that the difference between cutting one and getting it cut from the factory would be minimal at best. Not sure I am allowed to use a professional saw... but given it will be just home use I'm hoping no one will notice!!
    1 point
  31. Good to hear. No matter how accurate the slot will become, not telling how to do it in the manual just isn't right. Reminds me of the rumor about having to print a warning about not to dry pets in a microwave... Then again microwave ovens are for regular dummies, based on the name that saw is for professionals.
    1 point
  32. See my response to Andy. I do even start with a sketch or a scribble for new guitar body shapes, believe it or not. Nobody would ever confuse them for an engineering plan though. SR
    1 point
  33. In spite of (if I recall) Scott being in the field where things are drawn out, he rarely seems to do so. If ever. What I do know, is that Scott likely started with a piece of wood and started taking bits off, subsequently he ends up discovering a guitar, a gnome or a beer inside. Fortune cookie on a different magnitude?
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. thanks again for all the replies... the very experienced community over at lumberjocks confirmed my thoughts. There was a thread about a new insert for dado setup... and the procedure was as expected. They had the added insight of clamping a 2x4 on top of the insert and then raise the blade into both to ensure no movement. anywho, mystery solved.
    1 point
  36. Yeah, I've never heard of that before. Can't be right. SR
    1 point
  37. right... wouldn't want to shatter it or have a crazy kickback. would rather just not do it because all I have is brand new blades. thanks for the input.
    1 point
  38. Your welcome. I too looked at some videos and all the ones I saw (unboxing / setup) the slot was already there. Perhaps it's an oversight of QC at Sawstop. Be careful. Personally I would take small bites at a time like drilling a hole but in reverse raising and lowering the saw a little bit more at a time. Good luck if you decide to go this route. Ron
    1 point
  39. found a few spare hours again yesterday, so did some work on my neck, routing it to desired thickness and shaping it after rough saw. Also routed the truss rod. Again I'm using material that I have lying around, so using a body-side trussrod-adjustment with a wheel. Used that on my first build as well, pretty happy with it. But... while preparing a setup to remove 5mm of the back of the neck I made a rookie mistake .... forgot to fasten the router bit so the routing depth went everywhere. had to glue in a piece of maple to repair it, so a lot of extra work because of a stupid li
    1 point
  40. Upon further inspection, I found that the brace doesn't affect the crack at all. I sort of misjudged the location of the brace in relation to the crack. I was looking at the wrong brace. The loose brace is about 8" from the bottom and the second brace after the sound hole, but on the bottom. So, I went ahead and fixed it. It turned out pretty good. I can't feel it at all. I can still see it but I know where to look. Next on the grocery list of things to do will be the brace on the back. Thanks to the good advise from @Bizman62, I know how to try to do this. R
    1 point
  41. HAVE MERCY! Looks like you have a nice supply of pale moon. SR
    1 point
  42. So the 10uf 50v NP/BP caps came in today. Even though they are Non-Polarized/Bipolar, I need to put them on the scope to find the cathode so I can put the shielded side of the cap going the correct direction for the best audio. MK
    1 point
  43. She really doesn't know what she's talking about. She can't even see her feet let alone her thighs. Ron
    1 point
  44. A well earned win, congrats @argytar!
    1 point
  45. Nice job, @Prostheta Might be something in this over-thinking malarkey after all. Must try it sometime
    1 point
  46. It's a nice look with those evo frets. Slots look a tad shallow though. SR
    1 point
  47. Very nice Quilted maple top and head stock cap, The Curly Maple neck goes well with it as well. The color choices are excellent for this. MK
    1 point
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