Belial

The piece of scrap wood that is. Sorry for not stating that.

Just to let you guys know, I didn't add the salt when I mixed the dye(salt is bad for wood). It just took alittle while longer for the dye to break down during the mix, and yes I tried it on a piece of scrap. I'm not going to try something untested on a guitar body. It's been about 2 weeks since I did it and so far there has been no color change, oxidizing, etc. It's stayed the way I described it.

sorry that's radius....R A D I U S. Long night at work.

Is it a major undertaking to change the 12" radious on a TOM to a 16" radious? And should I start with uncut saddles or would recutting the existing ones be okay? thanks

I've been looking around at some different dye ideas and decided to try clothing dye. This was mix yourself stuff in a packet not liquid. Any ways I used one packet of black dye on a piece of basswood and it turned out looking like a black walnut sort of thing after putting a couple of coats of tungue oil on it. If I can get ahold of a camera I'll post some pictures of it.

I make a similar mistake with my strat when doing the neck pocket on it. Instead of trying to straighten up the pocket and shim it, I used glass bedding for gunstocks and dyed it to the same colour as the wood. It worked out great, very little work involved.

pickup a saga kit today for 50 bucks (the dealer dropped it while showing to me taking a quarter sized chunk out of the veneer). is there a better way to remove it other than sanding the hell out of it?

Yeah, what he said.

I don't see why not, although the hotrod is still a good choice. I'm sure you'd be happy with either one.

Another thing you could do is walk into a local music store with a tapemeasure and a note pad, write down the measurements for the setups that you like. Just keep in mind that depending on scale length and the number frets will determine how much space you have for your pickups.

Why not just go with a wilkinson and locking tuners? be easier overall wouldn't it?

Are you sure thats correct? The DEPTH of the pocket should be about 20mm, the LENGTH about 75mm and the WIDTH about 60mm. Keith I agree, but with squire thier dimentions change from model to model so it's hard to say. Are you trying to build a replacement neck or a body to fit your existing neck?

What about something like this http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm? Shouldn't be too hard to change the dementions to fit bodies and necks.

this is true!! i cut my body out with a jigsaw, and it wasnt straight. its the internal curves that kill them. the blade binds on an internal curve, and heats up causing friction, then the blade becomes more susceptible to bending forces, and it tends to spiral inward. it didnt matter with my body, as there was sufficient wood to shape this out, it actually followed the shaping i wanted pretty well! use a coarser blade also, these cause less spiriling, since they can cut the wood easier. easier cutting means less friction = less heat = less spiriling. D'oh... I wish I had read this the day before I cut my bodies yesterday. I used a jigsaw and I kept somewhat distance to the drawn body lines on the wood. But still, I noticed afterwards that several lines had been cut uneven - certainly not straight - and in some places I am not sure how to recover it. Learning it the hard way I suppose Do you guys think I can fix some of this up with woodfiller? I'll keep at least 1/2" distance next time I jigsaw a body.. Eskil I haven't had any problems with using a jigsaw. You just have to get enough relief cuts in for the curves, really important around the horns.

Well if I understand the info correctly, that would be a very bright sounding guitar.Probably too bright, although a mohagany/black walnut mix looks about right for what I want. Thanks guys for the links.