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soapbarstrat

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Everything posted by soapbarstrat

  1. For the basic wood-working stuff, check out a thing called "woodworking forums". You'll probably find more people there willing to help with your drum sander problem, etc. I would like a tutorial on how to take away the blacked-out areas on Our Souls photos. And consider this : Let people who pass along helpful tips to do it in the way they feel most comfortable with. Not everyone feels like writing a mini-book without pay. Some only have the patience to throw in their 2 cents where they see fit. I've probably picked up the most valuable info from people who pass it along in the most informal ways.
  2. A decent tuner should tell you if there's a problem with the distance from nut to 1st fret. Of course, you have to adjust the action correctly too. I know your adjustable nut there can make that a bit of a hit or miss situation. If it turns out there is a gap that needs to be filled, put those donut crumbs to good use .
  3. I'm going to call this "grass is always greener on the other side syndrome". A guy living right next to the beach and Ocean *dreams* of one day living on a river. Earlier today, I took my dog for a walk with the biggest river in North America within view, but didn't feel like I was walking near anyone's dream location. Give me the Ocean beach, anyday.
  4. Doesn't surprise me. At the 12th, you've got a big fat pearl inlay, which sometimes caused uneven fret-board spots at production time. You've also got the neck/body joint happening right under there, which can make a rise in the board (especially on a guitar that old). High fret likely too. All of which is fixable. But anytime someone is named "John Smith", they're likely hiding something.
  5. Under 10 *properly built* guitars under your belt : gotta think "introductory offer" price-wise.
  6. You mentioned "good deal". Now don't forget it's only a "good deal" if the item is good quality. All the really cheap ones I've had my hands on, would only be a "good deal" if you got them for free. I'm no fan either, but the authentic floyd I bought in the 80's is every bit as mechanically sound now as the day I bought it, whereas cheap imports that I've worked with, only around a year old, had worn out fulcrum points and grooved lock-nuts, etc. I hate to see companies that make junk guitar parts get financially supported. If you're worried that a good quality used bridge might have a little wear on it, it's nothing compared to the wear your budget bridge will show in no time.
  7. I quickly skimmed through a thread not long ago at OLF, where those Watkins inserts came up and Mr. Watkins himself chimed in and said (at that time) that he had a few sets left and it's best to find out by emailing him if you can order a set. I also noticed recently that StewMac has the press in stock again. I don't have such a press, but if I ever get one, think I'll do like some guitar companies and use wider cauls with no groove. I think that would speed things up, not having to line up a narrow 1/8" wide call all the time.
  8. Got a MIM Fender right here with rosewood board and stripe down back.
  9. Have you ever had one of those adjustable desk lamps, with the springs on the sides, and you pluck the springs and it sounds like an electric guitar ? That's your ultimate guitar tone, right there.
  10. " having to spend less to get by. " Well crap, all this time I thought the burden was having to spend *more* to get by ! LMAO! Guitar smashing philosophy looking stupid for the thousandth time.
  11. I know there were some pros way back (and I guess Brad Gillis still does it) that use the floyds with no fine tuners at the bridge, but it's always been a mystery to me how they could get away with that. The stock Fender bridge itself is partly responsible for the tuning problems those units are known for, although not nearly as responsible as the nut and tuning gears. Some have said the string ball ends are able to twist around in the trem block and stuff like that, causing tuning problems. Not an issue on any Floyd bridge, fine-tuners or not. I think some company made a weird looking non-locking nut that replaced a floyd nut. Search allparts and those places. They can also usually be converted back to stock with a little woodworking.
  12. +1 that up past the 15th fret, it's out of the truss-rod's range (although I'd certainly make sure the t-rod is at a decent adjustment before going after any of the frets with tools). My most crude method when I suspect some fret popping, is to lay the hardened eraser end of an old short pencil (other end of pencil cut flat) on the popped area and tap the other end with a hammer. Usually a temporary fix if no glue is used, but I think of the procedure as more diagnostic.
  13. They can also be used as little drill guide bushings for a #45 or #46 drill bit bit (depending) (at least the few I just measured). Or if you could manage to drill/tap for a tiny allen screw in the side, they could be a depth stop for the little drill bits. I really do think this way all the time, when looking at stuff like this. It's a curse. I'd get some small cans, write "please donate string ball ends here", go into the music stores and ask if you can leave the can on their counter, and if it gets half-way or fully filled, you'd give them such and such amount for it. Guys putting like 20 of 'em in an envelope with a 43 cent stamp (or whatever a stamp currently costs, I can't keep track) seems a bit extravagant to me, at least.
  14. I always thought they'd make great little rollers on a DIY string T on the headstock. They're probably also good as a height bushing for a factory string T. I'm probably the only guy who keeps a few on hand to repair my strings when they break at that end. I once bought bulk strings from musicians fiend that I had to do that to, regularly.
  15. I always have the neck tilted on it's side when wicking in CA from the end carefully with a pipette. Rag pressed against other end of the slot. and then black electrical tape under each slot end. Not 100% accident proof. The main reason I've been using CA is 'cause it's the only glue I can get in the slot after the fret is all the way seated. And I like to check how well a fret is seated with no glue squeeze out in my way.
  16. I think anything non-self leveling is likely to be a problem. As for the brass inserts, there was some guy names Watkins or something like that, offering a larger set with 1/2 increments which would be a plus for conical radii boards. Curious why Stewmac discontinued it, but they've done that with other tools before and then brought them back. Could be ' out of stock and we just don't know right now when we'll get a new shipment '.
  17. More like some of the guys pass on info based on mistakes they made in the past and you can save yourself $$ and trouble by highly considering what they bothered to type. You want a bolt-on neck but don't like bolt-on a whole lot : threaded inserts in the neck, sculpt the heel, no plate. Most sensible compromise, short of neck-thru from scratch.
  18. To really tweak the radius to being perfect, most of the saddles need shims put under them. I've yet to have my hands on one out of the box that was good enough to leave alone. PITA. Tedious work using under the strings radius gauges, removing saddles, adding shims, restringing, rechecking, most certainly repeating the process of adding shims again, rechecking.
  19. Floyd needs shims (pretty much no matter what, anyway). As for the TOM, google popped this up as one of the first : http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=8909.0
  20. For example, when Warmoth lists a 10-16 neck, they're talking about the radii on that fret-board, not anything beyond the fret-board, but I personally think the 10-16 has too much difference between the 2 ends of the neck. I think 10-14 makes more sense on the neck, considering how much wider an average neck gets at the body end from the width at the nut end.
  21. Find the math formula to get the exact number, but a 10-16 board, 25.5 scale, is going to put your saddle radius around 18"
  22. Yeah, I've checked out OWWM in the past. Never asked a question there yet. Would be great if a N.O.S arbor for my saw would pop up on Ebay. After once scoring a new $115.00 tool on Ebay for $27.00, the dream lives on !
  23. Sounds like you have the same TS I have. Think mine was made in the late 40's. The arbor shaft on mine is a little wonky and causing excessive run-out. Let me know if you ever come across replacement arbors for those old saws. Also, with it having a 1/2" arbor , maybe those small blades places like McMaster sell will work on it . I think I might have seen these little blades around 4" diameter, with something like a .022" kerf, plus 1/2" arbor hole, and under $10.00, if I'm remembering correctly. I don't know if you can crank the blade up high enough to peek out the top of the table enough.
  24. I have to keep postponing building one, but what's funny is everytime I do build an electronics project, I expect it not to work, but they always do (at least for a while !) I'm also burdened by the fact that I'm Amish on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
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