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my last one for 2012 a favorite theme of mine with a twist - this one was designed from the ground up to augment my customers collection of teles he wanted something that sounded and looked different to the others but with typically T style layout we came up with "The Prospector" Specs · Model: The Prospector [Astrocaster © body] · Body: top & back bound select timber binding · Tasmanian Blackwood top and rear cap, Vic Ash core, · Finish - Polished and sealed with "No Skin" finish · Neck: Vic Ash with Cooktown ironwood fret board. · 25.5”scale - 9.5" radius, Standard "F" profile · Tuners: Gotoh locking · Pickups: Hand wound Brierley 52 tele bridge, Firebird neck · Bridge, Ferrules, string tree: Callaham Guitars USA · Pick Guard - Copper plate · Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware, high pass filter · Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector · Weight: 3.4 kg - 8lbs · Serial number 22-271112

personally i reckon the aussie flag looks very cool - but to go way cool the eureka flag is the one

well done mate i love it bahaus meets art deco kind of feel in the design

there you go mate - now you got a decent office guitar

its easy to beat yourself up over this kind of stuff and destroy a guitar that doesn't meet your preset notions as to what it should be put it together string it up and remember all the stuff this one taught you - use it as an office beater or whatever for a few months and see if it holds together - if it does, move it on for a reasonable price - i am sure someone will love it to death for reasons you can't imagine - or even better find a young player who needs and cant afford a decent guitar and give it away - i bet this one will be a long way better than the crap hanging on the wall of the local music shop btw maybe you should forget about the limba and move it on -

most forums have the facility to modify posts after posting - reasons include bad wording, spelling, further info or clarity had a look around but can't seem to find out how to edit my posts or topic thanks

have this guild dreadnought here with a little work required on the frets, action etc it has some playing wear on the top to be repaired - the finish has been worn through in a couple of spots - the areas are roughtly palm sized the guitar looks a little worn - to my eye a well played guitar has its own beauty my gut feeling is intervene as little as possible in order to maintain the beautiful tone of this guitar - it is finished in a matte surface lacquer which could be nitro or shellac - more likely the former i am reticent to put anything on the surface [worn spots] as there is no moisture barrier any one have some advice on a way of treating the worn spots??

this one has been a bit of a departure from my usual builds - it has taken a while - building in a busy repair & service workshop has its challenges i only get to my builds when the pressure is off and these days that time is becoming harder to find i always loved offset bodies, trems and humbuckers so this one has all 3 of those features it is based on the jazzmaster / surfcaster type of shape but a bit smaller - it is quite a small guitar - bright and punchy tone Specs • Body: Top bound and chambered- Queensland maple cap, victorian ash core, Maple binding. • Finish - The wood is polished to a satin gloss and sealed with top grade sealing oil for a very natural feel. • Neck: Victrorian ash with Indian rosewood board.: 25.5”scale - 12"" radius C profile - • Tuners: Gotoh locking mini's • Pickups: Handwound custom made Brierley PAF set - uncovered. • Bridge: Wilkinson floating 2 point trem - stainless steel saddles, nickel steel trem block • Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware • Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector • Weight: 2.9 kg - 6.4lbs • Serial number 018-100411 pics

i am sure someone round here has used one of these and may have found the same as i have the arm is just too high off the bridge - it slides in and screws onto an allen screw that is installed from under the bridge the arm istelf has been drilled and tapped from inside [reverse of fender's] do i really have to cut this arm short and lose the thread? or is it possible to back the allen screw out allowing the arm to slide in further i tried this but it is in so tight i can't budge it with a normal size key possibly locked in so it cant screw out via action from above

the guitar is lightweight at just under 6 pound fat sound mmmm yeah wound back it is clear and bright wind it on and it is thick and meaty with an edge that slices through a dense mix the pickups really are somerthing else and are hand wound by Mick Brierley in adelaide - they are his vintage modern humbuckers sorry about the lack of tool pix for you workshop addicts i run a workshop blog on my website if you care to take a peek alittle more here thanks for the positive comments - it is much appreciated i often call by here for inspiration - the builders who post here are doing remarkable work and i like the fact that posters sometimes get stuck in with positive criticism on most boards you get "aaahhh its wonderful" posts or no replies

Hi all - i have lurked here for quite some time and never posted i won't post all the pics of bits of wood and machines as there is nothing in the process that hasn't been covered here already a conservative project by the measure of many who post here, this one is my 17th effort - a great little screamer - I have had it out on shows several times and it is particularly awesome combo with my 59 deluxe note the heavy duty [3mm] recessed neck plate - a liitel something I have found adds a lot in tone The guard btw is optional - mainly there to protect it as it is a try out guitar - see last pic for the naked look Vintage style 1 piece maple neck 10" radius medium frets Walnut top [4mm] Mahogany core Maple binding shaller heads gotoh hardtail strat bridge Brierly Vintage modern Pickups

here we call em auger bits pull straight into the timber real quick - slow speed and powerfull drill required great for fence posts or construction work crap for guitars and other light wood work

using a point fence is way better than a normal tablesaw type fence use a table saw type fence an you will fine out all about blade drift when you ruined a couple pieces high dollar wood

i use a makita 1/4 sheet palm sander in benedetto's book he recomends using a 1/4 sheet palm sander just make sure you don't move too quick, be thorough, use fresh paper and use every grade grit you can get beyond 1500 you need to be using cutting compound oh make sure you have a good solid thickness of well cured lacquer also you will still needa do the edges by hand

the most valuable telecasters of all were made of pine - a cheap softwood scorned by instrument makers i made a pine tele and it sounds real good - i will make some more of pine - many like the tone you get off a pine tele also many fine hollowbody guitars have top and bottom plates made of maple ply - think gretsch

its butt ugly man i dont think you can do anything to pretty that up the flame maple guard adds to its "unappeal" so keep it may as well go all out and go for the ugliest build on the forum its in the class of that tele on tdpri made out of composite flooring

no it aint a tele but mmm fun to play i bet

+1 on that this bridge is a good choice for a 1st build as it has a deep throw on the intonation, has sideways saddle adlustment, mounts with 3 screws to the body and is back loaded. the saddles also lock. it comes with a shim as batfink says so you can have it high or low depending how your neck sits it gives wide tolerances with placement unlike the recessed TOM or even strat hardtail with the hassle of string through body technically very simple setting it up

#7 or #8 jointing plane is all you need a magnetic [rare earth] fence helps have your cutter honed dead flat across the cutter edge your #5 jack is likely to have a slight upward curve a decent jointing plane will cost nearly as much as a power jointer unless you can find a 2nd hand one in good nick

hey dude that guitar is killer you gonna have a lotta fun with it both makin an playin i betcha you gonna blow all them old fuddie duddies away once you get it crankin more strength to your arm

you better off payin higher money for good wood from reputable dealers seal the ends with wax and set the piece aside for a year in a warm dry area before using in the meantime buy a blank from USACG or warmoth after you finish a guitar or two your brazil mahogany will be good to go if it dont split warping or cupping as its known will machimne out you get what you pay for

nice chunk of wood there dude btw i would recomend using heavier material for ur template - i find 12mm mdf good and cheap - the 6mm will be a bit floppy for general use - finish the 6mm and cut a 12mm working template in 12mm off it - umm actually make 2 so you dont have to use your master template again - dont breathe in the dust mdf makes its very toxic btw how much was that wood? i am in melb also and wouldnt mind checking out that place in balwyn you should go see mathews timber in rooks rd vermont they have some great timbers at good prices

i would definitely leave it as is cosmetically clean her up do the frets and get it playing do not cut it anywhere - you will probably find that when you get it playing it is a fine old guitar in its own right if you want an sg custom just build one and keep the old girl for a tochstone to your past hand it onto your kids when you cant play it any more its prolly worth good money

easier is glue a decent splinter of wood into the hole and re screw the end pin in a match is good

sure - at fender in the early days they used bits of lucky strike cigarette packs i use brass shims - you can get 1/2" brass bar in very small thickness at hobby shops - get a few thin ones in different sizes it dont take much to get the right tilt to bring that action down... that guit looks cool