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kench

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  1. Hi all, I'm going to replace my Gotoh TOM bridge with the Schaller roller bridge with adjustable string spacing. Because the Gotoh's spacing is slightly wide for the neck. Both bridges have the same post spacing (74 mm), but use different size bushings and studs. Gotoh bushings are 11 mm in diameter and have M8 threads, while the Schallers are only 7mm/M5. Since the post spacing is the same, I can easily fabricate new bushings on the lathe, which will go into the 11 mm holes on the guitar, and will accept Schaller's smaller studs. But then there will be too much metal meat between the studs and the wood. I am wondering if it will effect the tone. What would you guys do? Would you plug the old holes with wood and drill new holes for the new bridge? Or would you just make 11 mm studs with M5 thread that will go into the existing holes? (this is easier to do for me) Btw, the guitar is a LP style guitar with sapele body and neck, maple top and ebony fingerboard. I had built it back in 2005 with a lot of help from this forum.
  2. I agree on stirring. Think like this: each resin molecule should mate with a catalyzer molecule (this may not be scientifically accurate, but the principle is true). And that takes a lot of stirring. And use something that is wider than a stick to stir (I use a dinner knife).
  3. I believe there are many types of casting resin (polyurethane, polyester, acrylic, epoxy...). But I use polyester casting resin to make polishing wheels (to polish glass edges and bevels). I mix cerium oxide powder into the resin, add the hardener and then drop the mixture into the mold and wait overnight. Then I use my lathe to true the wheels. It hardens very good even with a lot of cerium oxide in it and machines very well on the lathe. It seems that it can be sanded easily so I am guessing it should be good for pore filling too. The viscosity of the mixture is like slightly thinned lacquer, so I guess it is enough to fill the pores.
  4. I've had no problems with CA glue. But you definitely need to spread it as thin as you can before it cures (single coat works for me). Since it has very thin viscosity, it penetrates every single pore. I wait over night before the sanding, otherwise it builds up on the sand paper much more quickly and it may not cure as hard, depending on the CA brand. Result is very hard and very smooth surface. But it is very bad for your lungs and eyes. I will also try polyester resin next time (the resin they use to make fiberglass products). I believe Warmoth use polyester as a pore filler too.
  5. I have heard somewhere on the web that alcohol soluble aniline dyes can be mixed with lacquer thinner in order to tint the finish. Is that true? If yes, should I dissolve the dye in alcohol first, then mix it with thinner/lacquer?, or should I mix the dye directly with the thinner/lacquer? I am re-finishing my home made LP guitar and I want to achieve something like a tabacco burst. I have some aniline dyes in variety of colors. I'd like to use them.
  6. Warmoth asks $60.00 for just shipping anyway. So I decided to get the woods locally.
  7. Hello everyone I am living in Istanbul, Turkey. I had built a LP guitar back in 2005 using woods from local timber shops (sapele body and neck). The guitar turned out great (even better than some Gibson I handed). Now I want to build a custom bolt-on guitar. Finding tone woods in Turkey is not a problem, but it is hard to find hard rock maple for the neck. Because there are lots of maple here but the sellers don't usually deal with luthiers, and they don't know much about woods they supply. I don't want to end-up with a soft maple, so I will probably buy a neck blank from US. You guys probably have your own favorite wood supplier over there, but I believe StewMac and Warmoth are the only ones who send worldwide. Probably there is no scientific or certain answer to this question, but which of the two are better quality? I'm sure there are people here who used them both on their guitars. StewMac blank: 27" x 4" x 0,8125" 20.50 USD Warmoth Blank: 27" x 4" x 0,75" 15.00 USD If there are better sellers who deals worldwide, I would like to know them too. Thank you.
  8. Actually I'm a bit undecisive on refinishing my guitar. I had finished it with shellac (as stain and color coat) then nitro clean on top.. But I was not 100% satisfied. This time I want to try Poly and I'm trying to find out the posibilities with Poly. What weren't you satisfied with, exactly, that you want Poly for? If it's warm colours, don't bother. If it's water clear type stuff, you're more likely to come out happy. Actually it is the color transition to the edges which I was not satisfied with. I had added burst after I finished it with shellac. With an amber aerosol can to match the mahogany on sides and back.. Color matched perfect but it is not transculent so it didnt make a good burst. And the wood grain doesn't show on dark edges. Then I bought a spray gun and did the clear coats with it and also used it on many things. Now I'm thinking of refinishing my guitar to a similar color but with true transculent finishes and Poly seems to be the fastest and the most durable way. And besides I want to try Poly Here's a picture of it (It looks better in person though, camera flash ruins pictures)
  9. Actually I'm a bit undecisive on refinishing my guitar. I had finished it with shellac (as stain and color coat) then nitro clean on top.. But I was not 100% satisfied. This time I want to try Poly and I'm trying to find out the posibilities with Poly.
  10. Hello.. I was wondering if I can tint clear poly urethane with analine dyes. To achieve transculent or sunburst finish for instance. I have analine powders with several colors.. but poly's are not sold in cheap small packs so I wanted to ask on here before buying a poly. Or should I use spray analine dissolved in alcohol (or water) for color coats, and then spray poly only for clear coats?
  11. Oh thank you. I'll try to find similar products over here. There are some CLOU brand concentrated liquid stains here with a huge variety of colors. I believe they are similar to Colortone stains. If Colortone works, Clou should work too. I'll try.
  12. Thank you but unfortunately "House of Color" is not an option for me as I'm located in Istanbul. Flammable products can't be shipped by air. But they have an informative website. I'll check it out. Btw.. maybe aniline dyes work can be mixed with clear Polyurethane?
  13. I'm considering to try Poly on my next paint job but I'm not experienced with it. What should I use to tint clear poly for a tranculent look.. or for a sunburst for instance. What is best to use?
  14. The idea of using angle grinder is to CUT the wood with the discs... NOT TO SAND it away until the desired shape. So lower grit discs much better. Higher grit discs sands smootly and slowly, which may sound good because you can do the work gradually with more control.. but that BURNS the wood because of the friction, no matter how smoothly you are using the grinder. Coarser grits works like a saw... there is not much friction because it cuts and removes the wood right away when it touches. I've had great results with a 40 grit flap sanding disc installed on my 10000 rpm angle grinder.
  15. That diagram is the same with the diagram came with pickups... I wired my guitar that way. Unless I made a mistake when wiring.. or used a damaged wire, it should be ok. But it looks all ok from what i see now. Here are the values I read on ohmeter: -6 Ohms when touched one tip on another (ohmeter was not calibrated so this may be the reference value of a good electrical contact) -6 to 7 Ohms between all ground points And between the middle terminal of the 3-way switch and the jack's ground: -11 ohms when the switch is in middle position -17 ohms when the switch is on bridge or neck pickup All values read when all volume and tone knobs are turned up to 10 It's a standard 3-way LP switch.. so I know which is the middle terminal and which is the ground terminal. I get 6 ohms with the ground terminal (btw... the pickup's back plate is also a ground point, right? because I read 6 ohms when i touched the tip on the pickup's height adjustment screw.) Thank you so much for helping me. But I think there's a mistake in my wiring that I couldn't see now. Soon I will have to remove the strings and hardware anyway for fret leveling and buffing the finish... I will re-wire the guitar and I hope it will be ok. Thanks again.
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