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About jammy

  • Birthday 05/06/1987


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    Jammy by name, Jammy by nature!

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    Nr. Liverpool, UK

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  1. Definitely do-able. You should really leave the piece over-length as making a bend in the middle of a longer piece of wood is much easier than in the end of a short one.
  2. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamps,_...epair_Jack.html Something along those lines.
  3. LMI is the way to go, call 'em up, I'm sure they'd be happy to help. I've placed orders from a few suppliers last week - LMI's stuff "out for delivery" to me according to FEDEX, and has come all the was from the West coast of the US. The stuff I ordered from David Dyke here in the UK hasn't even been sent yet! Go figure
  4. I'd be worried about getting glue right in to that crack to glue it up with it being so tiny. Still, if you think you can get enough glue deep in to it and if it pulls up nice and tight with clamp pressure (could be tricky!) it could be worth a shot. Cam clamps lying on their side on the top of the instrument may work for clamping it up. Making a curved caul for the back of the bridge so could can apply pressure in the right places will be a good idea.
  5. For the fanned fret I've done I "twisted" the headstock to bring the break point at the nut round to the angle required, makes for a neater look IMO.
  6. Does the crack pull closed easily, with little force? If it does, there's a chance you could get away with glueing it up on the instrument. If not I really would recommend taking the bridge off and replacing it. Can you post some pictures? As for the neck angle: it's a re-shim job on Taylors, nice and easy
  7. The place you have to add length for a job like that is behind the nut. Buy a bolt on construction bass and make a 28" (or as close as you can) scale neck for it by, in effect, adding frets behind the nut.
  8. Depends on what has caused the crack, and how bad it is. Have a good look around inside for any wear around the string holes on the bridgeplate. Sometimes, excessive wear round there can weaken the area and cause this problem. If that's the case, a patch up repair on the bridgeplate and either a replacement/glue up of the bridge could be the answer. I wouldn't really like to tack a crack like that with the bridge on the instrument though, ideally remove the bridge and have a good look over it. Salvage if you can, replace if not.
  9. That board looks great! How did you stop it running off the sides? Or did you allow that and scrape off afterwards?
  10. Radius before tapering...That's the way to do it!
  11. It's not so much the routing of the channel I'm worried about, it's getting the binding to do those 3D bends required to keep all the joints tight round the contour. I think if I was using wood bindings I would defiantly have to scarf joint them and the on/off transitions of the contour, but then I'd still have problems round the corner itself.
  12. I'd have to say a on a chambered the holes in the body have no air exposure (f holes) Semi hollow could mean the guitar is built with either bent sides or like the one in this thread, provided the airspace inside is exposed to air. But that's just me
  13. http://www.vibramate.com/ and http://www.bigsbyguitars.com/products_b5.html perhaps?
  14. Here's link with a pic, but it's not a great pic: http://store.guitarfetish.com/flroflotrsy.html They claim it's "solid machined steel" and that appears to be true. It actually seems to be well built so it'd be nice to try it. Bert Looks like you probably could, yeah. Check around the trem arm holder though, make sure you leave enough material round there for it to be good and strong.
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