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andy88

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Everything posted by andy88

  1. also i should have added that they are both neck-through so no shims or anything like that.
  2. FRETTED I have built a bass that i plan to fret and i am concerned about the action, height, buzz etc. i guess my question is should i go ahead and fret the bass with neck completely flat and then adjust the trussrod, saddle height and nut height till i get it where i want it or should i sand the fretboard so that the part closest to the body will be a few mm lower than at the nut area? the answer may seem obvious but to make it a little more complicated i want as thick a neck as possible. i have a stew mac hotrod double acting trussrod installed in it, the neck is purple heart with black walnut in the center with a rather thick wenge fingerboard. question is how thick can i have the neck for the trussrod to still move it? FRETLESS The question here is pretty much the same as above do i need to adjust the neck etc. or shave off a little bit of it or should i just have a really tall bridge simulating double basses and such where the string is higher away from the fretboard closer to the body? the neck wont be quite as thick as the fretted but still thicker than average and it it 3 purpleheart lams with a macassar ebony fretboard which is pretty thick but not as much as the wenge on the other one. so again how thick should this be so the truss rod can adjust it if that is the path i need to take? I realize that everyone has an opinion about these things and while all thoughts/ comments are much appreciated (after all they might make me think of new things if they dont help me directly) I would much prefer someone with personal experience with building necks, hotrod trussrods, and the wood types in dealing with this matter because i really really would prefer not to screw up my basses. so far they are turning out excellent.
  3. thanks GregP my sense of pitch isnt good enough yet to get it right without lines but when you mentioned the violin it triggered a thought. I feel kinda stupid since i have a violin (moveable bridge . . YAY) and should have thought about it. Ill go ahead and make the entire bass then string it up since it will be string thru i can then just leave the strings loose enough and move the bridge to the correct position.
  4. Most likely only the experienced builders can help me with this one. I'm making a 32" scale fretless with fretlines and I want to use a fixed wooden bridge. This is the best example that came to mind: http://www.ctbasses.com/picview.php?src=Ra...odyHUGEJuly.jpg How would I calculate the compensation/ bridge angle for correct placement. I would use an adjustable bridge but I want to know what kind effect on the tone it will produce and I don't have enough room for a standard bridge. Also I don't know if it will affect the compensation but the strings will go through the body. Thanks.
  5. any ideas on how best to glue scarf joints? that angle seems to complicate things quite a bit.
  6. when laminating what is the best method to use that will insure an unseen glue joint? I've laminated a few pieces together and clamped them tightly throughout the piece but you could see the glue if you were looking for it. Ive heard that sanding the wood down to a lower grit lets the glue seep in better and will make the joint less visible. Can anyone shed some light on this? thanks.
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