Alac Luin

I'll be honest, I am new at guitar building. It really does appear to be some form of "particle board". I only have one picture available at this time, and all you can see is paint. There is a good size chunk taken out of it (bass side-upper cut out, at the neck pocket), this would show the "wood" the best. It appears to be a non structural point and I am planning on building it up with epoxy or bondo. I'm having issues with my USB port on my computer, so I can't upload any new pictures. Anyway, I'm likely to start a thread about it in the projects ongoing once I gather most of the parts I need to do the build, and get my USB port fixed. If for no other reason, I really would like to get an idea where this body came from .

My issue with electrical tape comes from seeing what happens within a car's engine compartment, the constant heat melts the stick stuff. I have to remember that it's rather unlikely for a guitar's control cavity to reach 300 degrees F. I've thought about picking up some of that slit Convoluted Tubing I linked to earlier for use as a wire loom, to hold the pick-up wires for routing through the canal of a strat body. I can honestly find many uses for it, so I think I can justify buying some.

I'll ask here instead of starting a new thread. This has to do with MDF bodies, paint striper is a bad idea isn't it? I'm kind of afraid that what strips the paint would also degrade the epoxy/formaldehyde that holds the MDF together. I found this body on e-bay and fell in love with it because it was so ugly and simple, it wasn't until I had it in my hands that I found out it was MDF (or something similar).

I just don't like having that much exposed wire, the heatshrink would have only needed to act as insulation in the open area to calm my mind, and I'm not satisfied with the adhesive qualities of electrical tape to use it as permanent fix. I could convince myself to shield it with something like this.... http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...746783_-1_10409 in the 1/4ID size, but not sure if it would fit the switch. (smaller sizes can be found other places) Am I over reacting? Probably Only recently getting into guitar electronics I find many aspects, um, haphazard, but it works so who am I to complain.

Tried it, wasn't worth the effort It was just easier to go the little loop way, I guess I wasn't brave enough to try out the one bare wire thing.

couldn't one say strip about an inch (or 3/4 inch or whatever..) and place small amounts of heatshrink placed over the exposed wire, leaving gaps where the solder joint goes? I am going to be wiring up a 4 pole switch in a few days, I may try this....

Finally received all the parts and finished the assembly, I've got to say I like it at least through the amps that I have (only small practice amps at this time). So I'm happy with my choice of pick-ups. I went with the wiring from an American Fat strat special from fender's site. Well, this was it for my first full assembly. Now off to my next project, I've got 3 more in the works , this if fun stuff it really can be addictive

I recently did my first upgrade, mostly just to have some soldering experience, to a cheap Baja strat clone. I used the GFS Lil' Killer rails, they are on the higher price for strat sets but find they were worth as they sound nice, at least to me. These may be more of an option for a more metal like sound in a strat. (only so much can come from a strat). One word of warning, both the mid and bridge are oversized, so the pickguard would need to be trimmed. I did mine with a dremel, used the grinding tip (or whatever that tip is that looks like 80 grit sandpaper) at first and almost made a horrible mistake. Switched to a finer tip and went better, but would actually suggest useing a template or something.

The fender S-1 switching? as talked about here.. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11170 I have seen them on e-bay from time to time, but they usually go kind of high.

I've got 3 windows open, this thread, the thread linked to, and "the secret life of pots" page here. I'll assume "barely any change" refers to "audible" change. Audio tapers seem to have little control on the 0-5 range, with the something like 80 % difference between 5-10 range. This is speaking only about voltage. I understand "voltage" change and "audible" change are two different things. I think I'm beginning to get it.

I have them on order from a place called GuitarElectronics.com. I went with them since (for me) they are a local company, even if I did order them online. They stock them, just not on hand at the time. If there was an advantage or no real difference, I would have changed my order. I've looked at a few other places (stewmac and Guitarfetish for example) which only carry audio taper. There are so many sources, its hard to keep them all straight

thank you, for the quick reply. This certainly breaks it down in clear enough terms for me. I think I'm going to hold out for the liner pots (they have been on back order for a few weeks from my supplier).

I'm finally building my first guitar after reading much of on the subject. I don't yet know everything there is to know, but I know enough to question myself : My understanding... Tone Pots = liner Audio Pots = Audio Taper What I've seen while ordering, linear pots are hard to find, which leads me to believe most people seem to be using audio pots for tone control. Is there an advantage for this? I've done a little searching on the boards here, and it seems there is debate on this, unless. Audio taper tone pots- smoother operation Liner taper tone pots- more precise control On a side yet related note- Fender's TMX, like/dislike?

I was planning on using push-pull pots. It's just what exactly I'm gonna do with them is the issue I'm looking over some of the mods at guitar nuts right now. I like the detail of shielding in the quieting the beast section, I know It's most likely over kill (if using the SCN/humbucker combo) but I plan on shielding. Your instructions on how to reverse the mid is what I was thinking, but I'm more accustomed to reading automotive wiring schematics, but this sounds simple enough The "Neck on" looks like another simple yet useful option. Thanks again.

I've noticed that volume jump on my Ibenez, although I haven't been able to put words to it until now. Thanks for the tip on adjusting PU hight I'll keep that in mind, in case I need it. After reading a review of the PG+, the benefactor of this guitar was sold, I'm glad to hear others like it Right now, I'm not sure. I'm trying to find different options that are available. I've looked at fender's S-1 switching, but I don't need that many options. I'm looking at putting an out-phase/in-phase on there with the singles (I think I can do that with DPDTs). I'm still reading wire diagrams, which is actually what brought me to this site almost a month ago, I've been amazed at some of the wiring diagrams I've seen here. On that note, whoever owns that square guitar with the hundred or so switches, your a sick man . No hurry here yet, I've still got a few months before I'm ready to assemble.