H. Acevedo

Thanks for the advice daveq. I would of posted the diagram but don't know how. I did find out what my problem was. The problem with the first switch was not the switch being bad but the neck pick up had a broken wire around the coil. I found that problem by using my meter and checking ohms. Luckily, I only had to unwind the pick up about 12 turns to find the broken wire. I then soldered the wire back in place. I still had a slight problem with the switch though. On position 2, sometimes if i wiggled the switch it wouldn't quit working. It would only do it in that position though. The problem with the second switch was the way it was wired. Like I said before, the wiring directions were different from the first switch. So I tried to rewire the switch the same way the first switch was wired. It worked perfect after that. Again thanks. Next time I'll try to do a little more work to find out what the problem is. If I would of used my meter I probebly would have found the problem.

Greetings, I just put my electronics together on my strat project. Traditional set up with 3 single coils, 1 vol., 2 tone. I,m not getting any sound from positions 1 and 2. Positions 3, 4, and 5 work perfect. Also, the first tone control is not working very good. The second tone control works perfect. The first tone control works somewhat but you can barely tell a diffrence in tone. The switch that I'm using is from Fender. I do have a replacement from Switchcraft. I've noticed that the wiring directions are different for each switch. I tried changing out the switch first but ended up with more problems. This time nothing would work except position 4 on the switch. I triple checked the wiring directions on both switches and matched wire for wire on each set of directions. Is there something I'm overlooking? Thanks

Thanks krazyderek. It was the bushing itself that cracked. The bushing is made out of metal and the base plate is plastic. I just looked at my router agian and see no holes around the base plate other then the predrilled holes to attach the plate to driffrent brands. Do they make a bit kind of like a flush cutting bit, only that the bearing on the bit is towards the top of the shaft instead of the bottom?

Can anyone recommend a good set of router bushings. I have a carftsman 2hp router. I bought a set of bushings from Vermont Tools, but ended up cracking the bushing. Not sure if I was using them correctly. Let me explain. I attached the new bushings to the base plate that it came with. I then attached the base plate to the router, after I took the old one off. Then I choose a straight cutting bit that would fit in the center of the bushing without cutting or grinding the bushing itself. After that I began to cut into the work piece following the template edge that I made. When cutting I noticed that the base plate was getting hot for some reason. I figured out that the wood chips from the cut were being trapped under the base plate. The base plate had no holes so that you could see the area that you were cutting. I assume that the reason the bushings cracked was because of the heat, but not sure. Is this the correct way to use a set of bushings? What I want to do is to be able to follow my router around the template to cut the shape that I need. THANKS

Question? Does the type of scale that you use on a guitar (24 3/4, 25, 25 1/2) have any bearing on the tonal characteristic on the finished instrument? I've read somewhere that one of the first things to consider when building a guitar is what scale you want to have, because that sets your overall tone and the type of wood you choose highlights and colors that tone. Is this true? If so, then what type of tone does each scale produce? I got this information from the technical section from Novax Guitars. The author of the article is Ralph Novak and was taken from the 1995 Guild of American Luthiers Convention Lecture. The article is a very intresting to read.

I,m building my first guitar. I've got a Strat style body and I'm mounting a Les Paul style bridge on it. How do I locate the position of the bridge on the body. I've noticed that on LP style guitars, the bridge is set up at a slight angle on the body. I'm using a 25.5 scale neck. Should I just measure 25.5 inches down from the nut and locate the high E saddle at that point. Then move the low E saddle back 1/8 to 1/4 inch back to get the angle I need? Thanks