buttmonk

Thanks. Have now been considering some more options. Maybe solid maple neck, ebony board and black or white Korina wings. I too like alder but I will do a natural oil finish so I want a wood for the wings that is interesting. At some point I was considering swamp ash as an altenatvie to older, but I think I need the wing wood to balance the brightness of the board and neck like Doeringer said, so I guess that means something like Korina....or failing that then mahogony. Anyone know anything about the sound of Imbuya?

Thx for the input guys!

Hi board, I am going to build a V based around a Carvin NT6 neck thru. I have couple of Carvins and I really love the necks. Bridge is gunna be a recessed tunomatic, pickups will be Bare Kuckle Pickups Nailbombs. I want a guitar for hard rock and metal with occasional blues usage. I want something that really has a growl or howl to it in the lows and mids but is not muddy. Something that is not too bright and twangy but also is not dead in the upper registers either, something that sings the high frequencies and will cut thru but does not make ur ears bleed. Despite all these flowery adjectives, it should be fairly balanced in response across the freqeuncy spectrum. For the neck I was thinking 5 peice laminate: maple-walnut-maple-walnut-maple, ebony fingerboard and SS frets. For the body wings I was thinking walnut or claro walnut. So, what do you think? Does my wood choice match my tone requirements at all? Anyone got any better ideas or advice based on experience? Regards the neck woods I am limited to what Carvin has to offer, for the body wings I am not so restricted. Cheers,

Thanks. So I understand that u are confirming my previous post i.e. since there is no neck angle and the fret board and body are parallel, and therefore the bridge is perpendicular to both, the correct strategy is to sink the bridge so that on its lowest setting the strings thru the bridge are level with the strings at the nut plus some buffer, which in your case is the height of the frets off the fret board. And therefore, in my case, scale length does not have anything much to do with the equation... Thanks again.

Thanks all for helpfull input!! Rgds Q 2) bridge route depth, I got a few hints from reading other threads. Would it be appropriate to calculate the bridge height by assuming that the bridge should be level with the top of the nut (actually a few mm below this to be safe), then route the bridge recess to such a depth that the bridge will be at nut height when it is on its lowest setting, then it will need to be raised a bit to get some fret relief..??

Hi board, I am planning to make a custom guitar body to go with a Warmoth Pro 25.5'' 22 fret neck. The body will be flat top, with Gotoh tune-o-matic bridge with string thru body. Generally I want to know the best strategy for calculating the routes for pups and bridge relative to the neck pocket. Here is my bunch of questions: 1) I guess I should go with a standard strat neck pocket, meaning it will be flat bottom (no neck angle) and 5/8" deep (from top of flat top body)? 2) So if if I want to get away without a neck pocket angle, I understand that I need to recess the bridge, but how much? 3) How do i calculate how far away from the neck the bridge should be? I guess it needs to be slightly angled so how is that calculated? Naturally this is defined by the scale of the guitar.... 4) How do I calculate the pup positions? I am planning to have a neck humbucker and a bridge humbucker... 5) Does anyone know of some place where I can download templates that would cover some of the above which I could just print out 1:1 and use to make my mdf routing template? 6) I plan to position the string thru body holes at the bridge in a "fan" formation so they will not be running perpendicular to the bridge (i.e. in a sense the tension on the string is not pulling straight thru the bridge saddle pieces). Will this cause any problems in tuning etc...? I just think it would look interesting. Once I have all this worked out I will make a template in mdf to see what it looks like and to route from. Any advice much appreciated:)

Thanks Greg! What you say makes sense, based on my primitive electrical knowledge at least. I did go as far as making a modified version of the Seymour Duncan diagram but I decided against posting it here cos I guess Seymour Duncan would not be too happy. It will be a while before I get the pups but when I do I will try this out. cheers,

OK, thanks Come on E and GegP for you helpfull input..!

Thanks GregP! So I think I will ditch my first idea and do as u suggest instead. So of course, my next question is, has anyone got a schematic for this i.e. 3-way and vol with push/pull splitter, no tone?

Sorry, added some more info to the original post. "X" = pup is off, "S" = pup is split i.e. single coil, "H" = humbucking. I saw someone else use this notation on a different forum so I thought it might be standardish...

Hi there, Does anyone have a schematic for this? I want to wire up a pair of Bare Knuckle Warpigs in H-X-H (bridge humbucker - no middle pup - neck humbucker) configuration with only a master volume and a 5-way. I don't want any tone control. Also if anyone happens to have a nifty scheme for adding a 2nd vol so that the vol of neck and bridge pup can be set independently that would be good too. I would like the following options on the 5-way: 1) H-X (bridge humbucking, neck off) 2) X-H (bridge off, neck humbucking) 3) H-H (bridge humbucking, neck humbucking, series) 4) S-S (bridge split, neck split, series) 5) X-S (bridge off, neck split) * I think I want them in series as indicated but if anyone thinks this inadvisable let me know. Thanks,