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KeithHowell

Established Member
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    521
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About KeithHowell

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 11/13/1956

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
  • Interests
    Guitar building and playing.<br />Hockey (field,astro) Umpiring and coaching.
  1. In my experience I have found that it is the soundboard at the bridge, bulging up, is what causes most of the problem. Shaving the bridge weakens it causing it to bulge more. I have repaired 2 guitars recently by using the Stew-Mac method of removing the bridge and heating the sound board and bridge plate with a heated aluminium caul and clamping everything down to take the bulge out and letting the guitar stand for a few weeks. Cleaning up the bridge and soundboard then reattaching the bridge. I made my own cauls from aluminium for a few dollars and they work great. The one gui
  2. I would be interested to know how the template is laid out. In doing a multi scale the template, say for a 25.5" scale on the low E and using an 25.5" template the notches need to be on the line drawn of the string and similarly for the high e. If the template is outside the line of the strings the scale length will be shorter on the final cut board unless each template is compensated for by how far outside the line on the strings it is installed.
  3. If I enter 1 string it generates an unhandled exception. I wanted to use it to generate a fretting template to be laser cut.
  4. The scale length we used on the original Afri-Can guitars was 25" which worked out perfectly with the 22 fret in line with the edge of the can and the strings anchored at the other edge. The break angle over the bridge was just right. A later iteration was extended to 24 frets with the 24th fret level with the edge of the can and the strings still anchored at other edge. This made the break angle on the bridge too shallow and we never pursued it further. How are you going the fix the can to the neck? Ours were a neck through with the end bolted against the end of the can below string
  5. @Scott: I strongly suggest you get your earthing checked on your house. Bad earth dangerous! I can tell you a few horror stories about bad earthing and the damage it can cause.
  6. Sounds to me like you could have a earthing problem on your mains installation. Does this only happen at one venue or everywhere? With different amplifiers or always the same one?
  7. Cant see that working either! Unless it is attached to a random orbital sander which will keep the block relatively stationary with respect to the fretboard. Scrubbing back and forward is going to always round the board to the lowest radius in contact over the area it is in contact with
  8. If the OPB3 is specifying a 50k pot for volume that's what you should use. Without a circuit diagram of the OPB3 preamp its not possible to say if a 250k will make a difference or not BUT the 50k is probably an integral part of the preamp circuit and will most likely give you all sorts of unknowns if you change it to a 5 times higher impedance.
  9. I don't think that is a bad idea at all. Sandwich the maple between two pieces of stable mahogany then resaw down the middle of the maple.
  10. Great tutorial. However one comment: having built truss rods with 6mm Rod: They are just a bit to chunky. 5mm I find is far better using M5 taps and dies. This is comparable to using 3/16" rod and 10/32 taps and dies. 3/16 rod being only slightly thinner than 5mm (about 0.2 of a millimetre)
  11. Running a tube amp off of a variac and turning down the voltage is NOT a good idea at all! While you are reducing the voltage on the amplifier tubes which will indeed give you lower output power you are also reducing the voltage on the tube heater supply which is usually designed to run at nominally 6.3 volts or 12.6 volts +/- 10 % depending on how the heater supply is configured. Reducing the heater supply below its lower limit will reduce your tubes life and accidentally increasing it above the upper limit will most definitely destroy the heater coil.
  12. Ground loops inside guitars are somewhat overrated. Hum and noise are directly proportional to the current in a circuit NOT the voltage. In a guitar the currents are to low to really be a problem for ground loops. Amplifiers where you have several hundred volts (tube/valve) or lower voltages and lots of amps in the solid state case ground loops become much more important. A few volts potential difference between ground points will result in current flow and the resultant hum. Shielding inside guitars is more important than worrying to much about loops
  13. I am finding this threads comments by "Stiffy" more and more objectionable as well as incoherent! If English is not your native language then please say so. We then might be able to help you but you are coming across as a complete moron who looks like they are just trying to cause trouble.
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