KeithHowell

How is your EVH going? Here's a pic for some inspiration: This an original EVH which he swapped for one of our guitars.

I had a 10 inch blade which I took to my local sharpening service. They then ground it to spec for me and sharpened it. Cost me around $10 at the time.

Another option is to slice of a few millimetres on each edge of the board, cut the fret slots then glue the edge strips back and install the undercut frets. Thereby making a non-bound bound fretboard if you get what I mean. I have on occasion bound the fretboard with contrasting veneer as well.

Are you using a Conical/Compound radius on the fretboard?

In my experience I have found that it is the soundboard at the bridge, bulging up, is what causes most of the problem. Shaving the bridge weakens it causing it to bulge more. I have repaired 2 guitars recently by using the Stew-Mac method of removing the bridge and heating the sound board and bridge plate with a heated aluminium caul and clamping everything down to take the bulge out and letting the guitar stand for a few weeks. Cleaning up the bridge and soundboard then reattaching the bridge. I made my own cauls from aluminium for a few dollars and they work great. The one guitar, an Ibanez Gibson lawsuit copy, lowered the action so much I had to raise the saddle. The other was a Yamaha 12-string which a previous repair attempt had had the bridge cut between the pins and the saddle to give enough break angle for the strings over the excessively lowered saddle thereby ruining the bridge. When I got it off it was so weak I could bend it with light finger pressure. I had to make a new bridge.

I would be interested to know how the template is laid out. In doing a multi scale the template, say for a 25.5" scale on the low E and using an 25.5" template the notches need to be on the line drawn of the string and similarly for the high e. If the template is outside the line of the strings the scale length will be shorter on the final cut board unless each template is compensated for by how far outside the line on the strings it is installed.

If I enter 1 string it generates an unhandled exception. I wanted to use it to generate a fretting template to be laser cut.

The scale length we used on the original Afri-Can guitars was 25" which worked out perfectly with the 22 fret in line with the edge of the can and the strings anchored at the other edge. The break angle over the bridge was just right. A later iteration was extended to 24 frets with the 24th fret level with the edge of the can and the strings still anchored at other edge. This made the break angle on the bridge too shallow and we never pursued it further. How are you going the fix the can to the neck? Ours were a neck through with the end bolted against the end of the can below string anchor point. The can in itself, at least the ones we used to get around here, is not strong enough to resist the string pull without some sort of bracing.

I suppose its awl or nothing

@Scott: I strongly suggest you get your earthing checked on your house. Bad earth dangerous! I can tell you a few horror stories about bad earthing and the damage it can cause.

Sounds to me like you could have a earthing problem on your mains installation. Does this only happen at one venue or everywhere? With different amplifiers or always the same one?

The OP said DRYING not Dyeing

Cant see that working either! Unless it is attached to a random orbital sander which will keep the block relatively stationary with respect to the fretboard. Scrubbing back and forward is going to always round the board to the lowest radius in contact over the area it is in contact with

If the OPB3 is specifying a 50k pot for volume that's what you should use. Without a circuit diagram of the OPB3 preamp its not possible to say if a 250k will make a difference or not BUT the 50k is probably an integral part of the preamp circuit and will most likely give you all sorts of unknowns if you change it to a 5 times higher impedance.

I don't think that is a bad idea at all. Sandwich the maple between two pieces of stable mahogany then resaw down the middle of the maple.