axemannate

So, I assume that since the strings are carrying current, the bridge ground will be disconnected. Does this mean that there is no way to use passive pups?

Here's a link to the pots. http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/parts/part..._potentiometers $12 is a pretty negligable cost considering you wont have to waste time and money messing around with findint the right knobs or messing around with dipping them in goo.

Have you though about using the push-push pots that warmoth sells? Ive used them and they are way more convenient than having to pull up a pot.

I've been thinking about this. If you are planning to play with an orchestra, and can afford a guitar that only sounds good in a few keys, it seems reasonable to get one that is tuned and tempered to fit in with the orchestra. Segovia would probably have loved this, and I'd like the idea of using it on a classical guitar. And even thought we're not talking about a classical guitar here, Billy Joel's, Elton John's, Alicia Keys' pianos are tempered. Perhaps we've finally reached the point where technology will allow this to be done for a guitar. Then again, a piano isn't locked into a specific temperment, and "equal temperment" may not be the best sound for say J.S. Bach's Well Tempered Clavier" pieces. It's sure not what Bach was composing on/in. Todd edit: Just notice they offer different temperments, including one for that ^ exact collection, so I sent an email asking if they'd consider selling just a fretted fingerboard for a classical guitar. Just look at yngwie malmsteens DVD with a japanese orchestra. It sounds amazing and he's using a plain jane strat.

I just got Jim English's book "Making a laminated hollow body guitar" and he starts by making a plaster mold of the back of an old hollow body. He then pours epoxy resin into it to make a male part of the mold, and pours epoxy resin on the male part to make the female part. Then he justs puts the veneneers in the mold and clamps away. I highly recommend the book as it has revealed a lot of the mystery in building a hollow body type guitar for me. Hopefully i get started soon you can find the book here: http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....Electric+Guitar

hit the purple heart with some heat from a torch or a heat gun. you dont have to scortch it, just get it hot. it'll turn from brown to a dark violet.

NICE WORK DUDE! What kind of nut are you going to be using if you are using a trem? The reason i ask is because Ibanez is coming out with an 8 string model and I'm sure you would be able to order one of their 8 string lock nuts that is going to be on it. I want to build an 8 with a whammy sooo bad and the kahler 8 and the ibanez locknut would allow me to rip on the trem all day long (:

it looks pretty metal to me as is. If i wanted to make it more "metal" i would put some emgs and a floyd on that sucker and maybe stain the top black. And anyways whats wrong with kiss? if you want it to look hadcore, put a hatebreed sticker on it

edge=lo pro egde=edge pro<egdge II/III. Stay away from edge III. either the lo pro, origional edge, or edge pro are the ways to go, and personally i would go with an origional edge, but its really prefrence since all three bridges are great.

You dont even need the steam option on the iron. All I do is take an old rag, soak it, put it on top of the fingerboard and let the iron heat it up. I keep a water bottle nearby to resoak it before it gets dry and burns. I can pull off a fingerboard in 20 minites with this method since there is a crapload of steam getting thrown at it.

5 years. JK, Duplicolor takes foreverrrrrrrrrrrrrr to dry. I tried it once for one of my first axes, and never went back. As long as you put it on thin I would wait a month or two with the stuff, then go ahead and shoot the clear.

Thanks a lot guys for all the info. Esspecially about the 1/2" blades, I would probably end up ruining some nice wood with a 3/4. Also Mikro, that thing looks pretty nifty. I may have to rig something like that up myself.

I am in the market right now for a new band saw and have almost decided that I am going to get the 1hp Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've only heard good reviews about it. There is only one thing I am not sure about. Has anyone ever tried to resaw with it. I would mostly be sawing maple tops out of 8/4 pieces. Stock, the saw is only able to saw up to 6" high but with an attachment and a new blade it jumps to 12". I would only be sawing up to 7" so I won't be using the full 12". Also I would be using a 3/4" wide blade. Does anyone have any experience with this or any reason I can't or shouldn't do this.

i just got the sata 2000 digital hvlp and it just incredible. if you got the extra cash lyin around, id go for that.

I use two part polyurethane. I was told almost all two part urethane clears have some UV protectant although I'm not too sure about the rattle can stuff. Any one know? Anyways, I cleared half a scrap piece and let it bake outside for a month or two and there was almost no fading on the cleared side and the other was an ashy gray color.