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DC Ross

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Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. Are you talking about Ipe? If so, it's used mostly for deck surfaces. Try checking out your local decking suppliers.
  2. I really like Tru-Oil on Lacewood. Try wet sanding with it
  3. I'm planning a fanned-fret build, but for February and a 25.5 - 27.5" baritone (using the ABM bridge pieces). I can change the plan and the timeline somewhat if you're a bit flexible. I'm definitely up for it and will email you.
  4. Sounds like oil or Shellac would be your best options.
  5. That sucks. The exact same thing happened to my step-sister a couple of weeks ago.
  6. Rockler sells a Japanese Douzuki (?) saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30, but the StewMac system comes with the miter box. A good alternative to the fretboard leveling files is the Great Planes bar sander for $9. I have three sizes of these, and they're great for a lot of things.
  7. Thanks for all the votes and comments! I agree that upper horn looks way out of proportion in some of the pics. In person it's not as weird, but it is quite big. It was a tough month to enter... RAD's is certainly win-worthy. I've always admired the cleanliness of his builds. The Swede's bass is another that has the simplistic beauty thing going on. I don't really dig the pinstriping on Hitone's hollowbody, but the build quality looks amazing.
  8. I know Doug from Parable Guitars uses one, which is a reason why I've been looking into them also. It's at the top of my list
  9. I've been a member here for a quite a while, and finally decided to throw my hat in the ring. This is my DC-1 body style that I've been producing for a number of years. It was designed to be a very comfortable, ergonomic body that balances perfectly whether sitting or standing. The deep cutaways also allow the neck/pickups/bridge to be placed further back on the guitar, making for a shorter reach to the lower frets, as well as exceptional upper fret access. It features a bookmatched Sapele back and Maple top. The super-thin one piece neck is made from Lacewood with an Ebony heel and fretboard, and the frets are large stainless steel. The neck is finished in Tru-Oil, and the body in Target Coatings EM9000 (the jury is still out on that stuff). The top is dyed black with faux binding. As far as hardware, tuners are Sperzel, pickups are Seymour Duncan JB and 59, and the bridge is a Wilkinson/Gotoh wraparound. Some other notable things include the offset mother-of-pearl dots, brushed Mylar logo, and eased fingerboard edges for a very "played-in" feel. Here it is with it's happy owner
  10. I can't really say, I don't have a lot of experience with cabs... I know a broken-in speaker will sound much different than a new one, and as with guitars, I'm sure it has more to do with the build quality
  11. Sure, I'll relieve you of them for $90
  12. No, most plywood's plys have spaces, or "voids" in them. You can usually see where the manufacturer plugged the outer plys, they're football-shaped. They won't go through the trouble of plugging/filling/fixing any of the internal plys since they won't be seen. Baltic birch ply's are all solid.
  13. Baltic/Russian Birch ply isn't suggested because of the wood used, but because it's voidless.
  14. +1. Sometimes it's better to salvage what you can (remove the fretboard, save the truss rod, cut off the wings to reuse, etc...).
  15. Thanks guys. I went on to use it for headplate veneers, and the outcome was perfect. I forgot to mention that the white rectangle bit in the pics is a scotch-brite-type pad. After using it for these first few times to allow more space around the air valve, I don't think it's necessary and just adds another step. The air consumption is very little and is only running for a minute, so this would even work with a small pancake compressor. For a minimal outlay of cash, I'm very, very pleased with the results.
  16. I've been wanting a vacuum bag system for quite a while, but the price has always put me off. $450 for a decent one from Rockler... Yikes. I saw this refrigerant vacuum pump at Harbor Freight and knew I was on to something: http://www.harborfre...tors-96677.html My wife bought these clothing storage bags a few years ago, in an attempt to declutter her closet: http://www.bedbathan...sp?SKU=16698563 With those two pieces, and my existing compressor making the three major components, I dug through my box of miscellaneous fittings and came up with this contraption: IIRC, it's comprised of a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, a 3/8" ball valve, a 3/8" to 1/4" reducer and a quick disconnect. The 1/2" to 3/8" reducer fit into the vacuum port of the bag perfectly, so it just needed some epoxy to glue it in. I also put a quick disconnect on the vac pump: After a couple promising test runs, I tried it for real: The bag was punctured where it was going over the sharp edges in the roughed-out control cavity, so I patched it up with some packing tape and gave it another go; this time with some protection. I used thin shelf lining foam rubber, since it's what I had lying around, and placed a square of wood over the control cavity opening: The bag held vacuum overnight with no leaks at all, and worked a treat.
  17. I'm pretty sure this is the one I have: http://www.rockler.c...3&filter=dozuki The specs say it's got a .012" thick blade, but the teeth are set at .023"
  18. Crazy-ass Koa. This is going on something special tomorrow
  19. Rockler sells a nice Dozuki saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30. The blade is replaceable as well.
  20. Perry's idea would work well if Tremmy had a 16" jointer
  21. I use a jack plane. It works very well if you plan it out.
  22. Why wouldn't you use a truss rod??? It's inexpensive insurance if nothing else...
  23. +1. A customer came to me with a box of GF parts/body/neck and asked me to assemble it for him. The centerline was off, the bridge pickup route was too big and encroached into the trem route, the body wood was similar to alder, but much, much softer. In the end, he ended up paying as much as he would of for a higher-end Schecter.
  24. Edge of fingerboard to center of string. Here's a wireframe for comparison to the previously posted image:
  25. Most Tune-o-matics are positioned so that the bass side is about 1/8" further back than the treble side. Fender-style hardtails have enough saddle travel that they don't require this compensation.
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