DC Ross

That'd be great, just let me know. Thanks!

I'm not sure if they ship to Peru or not, but I have a Chinese-made JCut machine that's been performing well.

http://www.jcutcnclaser.com/

Very cool project!

Just an FYI: you can do all your Cut Extrudes in one operation -- it really saves rebuild times and makes for a "cleaner" model

Looking forward to seeing more

That'd be awesome, ansil! I'm just starting the build this week, so within the next month or so. Let me know how much.

Thanks again, guys!

Thanks for the replies, guys. This client is looking for a tele-style, 2 position switch which doesn't look like it exists. Super basic, forward for the neck pickup, back for the bridge, with no in-betweens. The feel of the blade switch is pretty radically different from the normal 2 way mini switches that we all know; it's a beefier feel that the client wants.

Hey all, I'm looking for a 2-way blade style switch. Any leads are appreciated.

Thanks!

I'm curious as to how Perry is able to build Blackmachine copies, brand them as his own "Hypemachine" line, and legally sell them. I wrote to him and asked, but never received a response.

That's the proper way, Tim

I have an 8" jointer (Grizzly G0490 w/ Byrd Shelix head), and wish it were a little bit bigger. It's just big enough for face-jointing most body halves. The helix head leaves a surface that's practically finish-ready.

For bandsaws, I use a 2hp 14" Grizzly G0457, it's got a tall fence and a 10" resaw capability. I've never found myself needing more.

Planer vs. thickness sander -- That's a bit of a tough call. I have a Jet 16/32 that I really dig, but do wish I had a good 20" planer with a helix head. I use the CNC with a planing bit, it's way slower than a planer would be, and it still needs to be run through the sander.

Changing grits on the sander is more of a hassle than I like, and it's definitely not ideal for taking off more than moderate amounts. If I were to do it again, I'd go with a wider model, so I could run bodies through on an angle, since the paper loads up really quickly from cured glue (I use Titebond original). It's great for thicknessing fretboards and neck blanks, and I definitely wouldn't give it up.

I about lost it when I read "I can guarantee that with a conventional ruler you will not be getting my scale length correct."

I think he's saying that he's developed a completely new form of linear measurement (seeing as how the wonderful thing about rulers is that they are standardized and conventional).

Bone for non-trem guitars, otherwise Graphtech. Plastic just sucks, and brass is more a novelty than anything.

I'm selling a NEW 4 axis JNC-40M CNC breakout board, with shielded USB cable, and licensed Mach3.

Building your own CNC machine, or upgrade your existing machine.

$240, shipped free w/in the continental USA.

PM or email Darren at rossguitars dot com

If there's enough room in the body, and the wiring harness is long enough, the pickups could be moved down, slid over, then tilted out. Not easy, but possibly do-able.

The strings through the intonation screw holes is completely unforgivable, as is the use of a trem bridge plate.

I do like the shape of the body though.

And to be fair, he did say he has a "unique" construction method

Beautiful. I was very happy to see you chose to go with Cherry - that would've been my first choice.

I built a StewMac style neck jig from plans/instructions by Matt Vinson. It works really well, although a bit of a pain to set up.

https://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&pws=0&q=matt+vinson+neck+jig

You can do Al (and other non-ferrous metals like brass) on most decent CNC routers, as long as you take it slow with shallow cuts.

I've been using the JCut 6090 for just over a year, and it's been a good, relatively inexpensive (<$3k) machine that has a 24x36x6" work envelope.

There's always one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24x36-600x900mm-CNC-Router-Cutter-Engraver-Sale-Christmas-and-New-Year-/130832889821?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e763f77dd

This: http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

+ This: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1063&site=ROCKLER

+ This: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000441/3612/woodcraftshop-rule-36.aspx

+ This: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18651&site=ROCKLER

Funny! I realized the same thing after the seal on the dust bin thing on my Porter Cable crapped out.

Apparently, that's how it's meant to be used... "The bit is specifically designed for freehand routing"

Yikes!

To keep it on the cheap (if not necessarily the quickest way): An offcut of 1/8" plexi from a plastic supply place like Tap Plastics, with an X-acto saw (if you don't want to invest in something more suitable), and a variety of sandpaper.

Is... Is that a Snuggie?

A fanned fret compound radius is definitely possible, I do them for my baritones. I don't think a 1/2" difference in scale lengths would really maximize the benefits of the fanned frets, and so probably wouldn't be worth the cost. Feel free to send a PM though and I can give you a quote.

If you have long pieces, some heavy-duty brackets attached to the wall studs is a good solution, stack the pieces with stickers between them.

For smaller bits, I built a scrap cart with wheels on it:

Judging by the 60s-70s plastic trim, I'd guess MDF