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Posts posted by DC Ross
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It depends on what you want your string width at the bridge to be...
I find it's too narrow if they're touching (~1.99"). I leave about 1/32" between them for a 2.125" string width.
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If you have a halfway decent compressor, go for an inexpensive vac bag setup: Space Bags (http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=16698563) and a Harbor Freight vac pump (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html). Get some air fittings and a valve, and voila -- cheap bagging solution.
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Epoxy with a filler additive, like microbaloons, or a fairing filler would be your best bet. System 3 and West Systems are two top names. You'll find them at marine supply houses.
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I do a signature inlay with a bunch of pointy bits on it, and can't figure out an efficient way of accomodating those points in the fingerboard cavity toolpath. Anyone have any tips?
Thanks!
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I use the same press, and I bought the cauls & holder from StewMac. It works great!
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Looking really nice! Just out of curiosity: why cut a template?
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Nice stuff!
Doug sent a test fretboard my way a while back to get feedback on it, and one of my comments was the same as Bionic said: for me, the 12th was much too far up the neck for a perpendicular fret. I place mine at the 6th on my baritone 26.5"-28" boards, which I've found is a good balance of playability, aesthetics, and string tension (tuned B to b w/ GHS .070" strings).
So, what ever happened with that build?
Hey Doug, I thought I sent a bunch of feedback to you--one of the main points being what I stated here. In a nutshell, it will be extremely difficult at best, painful at worst, to play in the first position & suggested placing the perp fret @ 6 or 7, and reducing the disparity between the two scale lengths by a half inch or so on either the bass or treble side (2" is a bit extreme at these shorter scales).
I did want to say that the quality of the board was top-notch, and the faux binding was a really nice touch.
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Nice stuff!
Doug sent a test fretboard my way a while back to get feedback on it, and one of my comments was the same as Bionic said: for me, the 12th was much too far up the neck for a perpendicular fret. I place mine at the 6th on my baritone 26.5"-28" boards, which I've found is a good balance of playability, aesthetics, and string tension (tuned B to b w/ GHS .070" strings).
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Looking at the pic, it seems like you may have been pushing the workpiece into the bit too much. The burning, plus you can see there was material taken away on the body which you were routing flush to, are giveaways. Too much lateral force, especially on thin, brittle bits like that one, and a broken bit's the result.
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Grizzly discontinued those pedestal buffers a few years ago -- about a month before I tried to buy one.
I use the StewMac buffer mounted on their swiveling pedestal, and it works really well. For the tight corners and cutaways, I use a dremel with the cloth wheels.
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That's a really nice present for your paw-in-law. So... why'd you fret it?
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I voted for Verhoevenc, despite "Barracuda" being misspelled
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Meh. For a cheap, knock-around acoustic, I'd take the handle end of an x-acto and push down the offending fibers while I flowed some thin CA into that crack. When I was done with those two spots, I'd just flow some more thin CA into the rest of it.
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I've used Rit dye (used for dying clothing) before on plastics, it might be worth experimenting a bit with it.
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One thing I've always been curious about is how to deal with the seams... I'm really looking forward to more progress pics!
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Are you talking about Ipe? If so, it's used mostly for deck surfaces. Try checking out your local decking suppliers.
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I really like Tru-Oil on Lacewood. Try wet sanding with it
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I'm planning a fanned-fret build, but for February and a 25.5 - 27.5" baritone (using the ABM bridge pieces). I can change the plan and the timeline somewhat if you're a bit flexible.
I'm definitely up for it and will email you.
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Sounds like oil or Shellac would be your best options.
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That sucks. The exact same thing happened to my step-sister a couple of weeks ago.
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Rockler sells a Japanese Douzuki (?) saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30, but the StewMac system comes with the miter box.
A good alternative to the fretboard leveling files is the Great Planes bar sander for $9. I have three sizes of these, and they're great for a lot of things.
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Thanks for all the votes and comments! I agree that upper horn looks way out of proportion in some of the pics. In person it's not as weird, but it is quite big.
It was a tough month to enter... RAD's is certainly win-worthy. I've always admired the cleanliness of his builds. The Swede's bass is another that has the simplistic beauty thing going on. I don't really dig the pinstriping on Hitone's hollowbody, but the build quality looks amazing.
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I know Doug from Parable Guitars uses one, which is a reason why I've been looking into them also. It's at the top of my list
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I've been a member here for a quite a while, and finally decided to throw my hat in the ring. This is my DC-1 body style that I've been producing for a number of years. It was designed to be a very comfortable, ergonomic body that balances perfectly whether sitting or standing. The deep cutaways also allow the neck/pickups/bridge to be placed further back on the guitar, making for a shorter reach to the lower frets, as well as exceptional upper fret access.
It features a bookmatched Sapele back and Maple top. The super-thin one piece neck is made from Lacewood with an Ebony heel and fretboard, and the frets are large stainless steel. The neck is finished in Tru-Oil, and the body in Target Coatings EM9000 (the jury is still out on that stuff). The top is dyed black with faux binding. As far as hardware, tuners are Sperzel, pickups are Seymour Duncan JB and 59, and the bridge is a Wilkinson/Gotoh wraparound. Some other notable things include the offset mother-of-pearl dots, brushed Mylar logo, and eased fingerboard edges for a very "played-in" feel.
Here it is with it's happy owner
This Is So Mechanical...
in CNC Chat
Posted
For under $3600, this 24x36 machine is quite good. I've been using it for a few months.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24x36-600x900mm-CNC-Router-Cutter-Engraver-high-quality-free-ship-hot-sale-/130724877131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6fcf534b