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Posts posted by DC Ross
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Sure, I'll relieve you of them for $90
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No, most plywood's plys have spaces, or "voids" in them. You can usually see where the manufacturer plugged the outer plys, they're football-shaped. They won't go through the trouble of plugging/filling/fixing any of the internal plys since they won't be seen. Baltic birch ply's are all solid.
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Baltic/Russian Birch ply isn't suggested because of the wood used, but because it's voidless.
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+1. Sometimes it's better to salvage what you can (remove the fretboard, save the truss rod, cut off the wings to reuse, etc...).
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Thanks guys. I went on to use it for headplate veneers, and the outcome was perfect. I forgot to mention that the white rectangle bit in the pics is a scotch-brite-type pad. After using it for these first few times to allow more space around the air valve, I don't think it's necessary and just adds another step.
The air consumption is very little and is only running for a minute, so this would even work with a small pancake compressor. For a minimal outlay of cash, I'm very, very pleased with the results.
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I've been wanting a vacuum bag system for quite a while, but the price has always put me off. $450 for a decent one from Rockler... Yikes. I saw this refrigerant vacuum pump at Harbor Freight and knew I was on to something:
http://www.harborfre...tors-96677.html
My wife bought these clothing storage bags a few years ago, in an attempt to declutter her closet:
http://www.bedbathan...sp?SKU=16698563
With those two pieces, and my existing compressor making the three major components, I dug through my box of miscellaneous fittings and came up with this contraption:
IIRC, it's comprised of a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, a 3/8" ball valve, a 3/8" to 1/4" reducer and a quick disconnect. The 1/2" to 3/8" reducer fit into the vacuum port of the bag perfectly, so it just needed some epoxy to glue it in.
I also put a quick disconnect on the vac pump:
After a couple promising test runs, I tried it for real:
The bag was punctured where it was going over the sharp edges in the roughed-out control cavity, so I patched it up with some packing tape and gave it another go; this time with some protection. I used thin shelf lining foam rubber, since it's what I had lying around, and placed a square of wood over the control cavity opening:
The bag held vacuum overnight with no leaks at all, and worked a treat.
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I'm pretty sure this is the one I have:
http://www.rockler.c...3&filter=dozuki
The specs say it's got a .012" thick blade, but the teeth are set at .023"
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Crazy-ass Koa. This is going on something special tomorrow
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Rockler sells a nice Dozuki saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30. The blade is replaceable as well.
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Perry's idea would work well if Tremmy had a 16" jointer
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I use a jack plane. It works very well if you plan it out.
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Why wouldn't you use a truss rod??? It's inexpensive insurance if nothing else...
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I have a floyd rose routed body from them. Absolutely terible, there was splintered holes through the trem cavity route and the other routes were all wonky and off the centre line.
You are essentially buying a useless plank.
+1. A customer came to me with a box of GF parts/body/neck and asked me to assemble it for him. The centerline was off, the bridge pickup route was too big and encroached into the trem route, the body wood was similar to alder, but much, much softer. In the end, he ended up paying as much as he would of for a higher-end Schecter.
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Edge of fingerboard to center of string. Here's a wireframe for comparison to the previously posted image:
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Most Tune-o-matics are positioned so that the bass side is about 1/8" further back than the treble side. Fender-style hardtails have enough saddle travel that they don't require this compensation.
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Just me thinking, but I think you're way over-thinking this.
+1
+2
Basses typically have more overhang than guitars. For example, mine are 3/16" (.1875"), there's still plenty of fretboard on the edges to not worry about slipping off:
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Definitely some cool Jake Von Slatt inspiration. Really nicely done!
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Pickup winder?
There are others out there that are reversing, not sure which specific ones though.
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They actually do specify, in a way. If it's not stated outright, it's soft, but they do say if it's hard.
I just got a couple boards from them yesterday. Shipping is pricey, but the actual prices are decent, especially if you don't have a supplier nearby.
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You should be proud to provide high quality at a low price for now.Plenty of time to jack things up as your demand increases..
Not necessarily... If you're asking $750, you'll start to be known as a sub-$1000 builder. If, after a few years, you price your guitars on par with other boutique builders, people will still think they're getting a $750-quality guitar. Take Schecter for example; they are not a lot of dough. If they came out with a $2000 guitar, I doubt anyone would buy it since in everybody's mind, they make "lesser" instruments due to their prices.
Be honest with yourself; if you need to improve to compete with factory-quality instruments, you probably shouldn't be selling them as a business. It's another thing if you're selling to your friends and just want to help support your hobby.
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Easy... spend the $28 and buy one
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Yamaha used balsa in the RGX A2, sandwiched between some hardwood.
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I don't think he actually means "patent" -- I'm guessing he means "idea"
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This works a treat. It'd be fairly simple to improvise something similar if you're only pulling a couple studs.
Building Speaker Cabs
in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
Posted
I can't really say, I don't have a lot of experience with cabs... I know a broken-in speaker will sound much different than a new one, and as with guitars, I'm sure it has more to do with the build quality