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Cherryburst

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Everything posted by Cherryburst

  1. Cherryburst
    Ignore the post above - I'll just go with a 1.75" thickness and avoid the problem altogether. I'll probably make two prototypes out of some cheap wood (like pine) and try each bit, and decide which one I prefer before doing the real one.
  2. Cherryburst
    Oops - it occurred to me that if you use a 3/4" bit on both sides of a 1.5" thick piece of wood, the roller guide on the bit is slightly below the edge of the cutting blade - does this make for a problem when turning the wood over and trying to route the other side, that the roller will be trying to lay against the contour of the other side? http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-C1189-4-22r-Roundover-Shank/dp/B0000DCZ3P . .
  3. Cherryburst
    I'm working on a new project - it's a solidbody doublecut vaguely similar to a LP jr. I'm thinking of using my router to make the edges VERY rounded kinda like an Alembic or Ibanez Satriani. The body is 1.5" thick. If I use a 3/4" roundover bit (both sides) it'll be round all the way around. If I use a 5/8" roundover bit, there will be a very slight (barely visible) 1/4" flat strip in the middle of the side. (I'll obviously sand after routing to smoothen out any "seams") So should I go with the 3/4" or 5/8" router bit? What do you guys think? . .
  4. Cherryburst
    I just got the neck and it's very nice. Instead of Tru-oil I'll put on a hard finish as they recommend. 2 questions: 1. What satin finish does anyone here recommend that feels similar to bare wood? (and is easy to apply) 2. It has the cream phenolic dots. If I ever want to dye the rosewood fingerboard (w. Behlen Solarlux) for a darker look, will the phenolic dots absorb any of the dye? Is it neccessary to tape them over? (Thanks again)
  5. Cherryburst
    I'm waiting on a Warmoth neck that I've ordered, which I intend to finish with Tru-oil. It's unfinished maple with the Indian Rosewood fretboard. I know these things come from the factory dipped in a "conditioner" called Nelsonite. But before the Tru-oil, I'm kicking around the idea of staining the maple part of the neck to make the whole thing look like Rosewood. I would use some kind of Brown stain - either Behlen SolarLux or StewMac's ColorTone - with 91% iso alcohol. Does anyone foresee any problems with the alky+stain penetrating the Nelsonite and/or maple?
  6. Cherryburst
    Consider a neck with the frets removed (to be refretted later). Dot inlays. And using the Stewmac fret radius sanding blocks, is it better to.... Using an existing 16" radius fretboard, sand it rounder to a 12" radius (w the 12" block) -- or -- Using an existing 12" radius fretboard, sand it flatter to a 16" radius (w the 16" block) ??? (please don't ask why )
  7. Cherryburst
    How "wet" to make the wood when pre-wetting? Just a light wiping w a wet cloth, or a little bit more sponging? How long to leave it pre-wet (to soak in) before applying water-based stain? And did you use maybe a light wet/sand 1000-or-so grit for "de-whiskering"? Thanks again.
  8. Cherryburst
    OK thanks, the Minwax water-based color chart is here, and winter white is in the middle: http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_stains...ain.html#Colors Yea, winter white sort of looks like it has some blues/grays in it. To get it custom mixed w all white pigments, would a place like Home Depot do that? And did you find that being water-based it raised any of the grain?
  9. Cherryburst
    How about if I were to take the white pigment that Stewmac sells, and mix it (very diluted) w denatured alcohol, and apply that to the bare wood? That seems like it might give a translucent/MK white sort of finish that would take Truoil on top of it?
  10. Cherryburst
    Hey, here's a followup question - same blond basswood/alder wood - suppose I wanted to do a sorta translucent/Mary Kay white type of thing under Tru oil? Of course the Tru oil is going to impart some amber-ish color on top of the white - and that's OK - but what sort of whiteish stain under it might be good? It would obviously have some opaque white substance in it. What might work? Minwax water-based pickling stain? How about the Stewmac opaque white dye they have w water based lacquer - but thinned out? Does Behlen make anything translucent white w/o mineral spirits? Thanks again.
  11. Cherryburst
    Wow! Thanks for posting that, it looks good. I guess that's the Red Blood stain? http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2007234/BE...Lux-Stains.aspx
  12. Cherryburst
    Thanks guys, I did some more reading up and mineral spirits (oil) based stuff is out for this If I don't want to DIY mix it myself, it looks like Solar Lux is the best choice? (or any other comparable alcohol based)
  13. Cherryburst
    Thanks, I think I've got a better wording for my question.... what kind of stain would go best w Tru oil on top of it: Alcohol based (Behlen Solar Lux) Oil based (most Minwax) Water based (Minwax and who else??) (are there any issues of a water based stain raising the grain on alder or basswood?)
  14. Cherryburst
    Suppose I have an Alder or Basswood body (something fairly "neutral" in color and doesn't really need grain filling) which I want to give either a Walnut-brown or Mahogany Red stain before finshing w Tru oil Is there any specific stain brand (pre-mixed) that anyone would recommend under Tru oil? Would there be any advantage to anything water-based? Thanks.
  15. Cherryburst
    I was reading through some old threads and I found this one. I've had almost the exact same idea for a 26.5" scale neck. What one could do is buy an unfretted Warmoth neck with the 24 fret extension which adds 1.062" (scroll halfway down) http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretboardExtensions.aspx Glue a piece of wood under that extension and drill new mounting screw holes about 1" offset from the originals - then you could mount the neck to the standard holes on the body, and the nut would be 1" further back for 26.5" from the bridge. Then using the Stewmac fret-scale calculator, cut fret slots and install frets for a 26.5" scale. You would still have a 22 fret guitar (or maybe 21 frets - I calculated it a while back) Might that work?
  16. Cherryburst
    Folks, thanks so much! Here's a link to Z-poxy if anyone else is interested: http://www.amazon.com/Z-Poxy-Finishing-Res...z/dp/B0006O8ESK One more related question... suppose I was building a maple neck from scratch. Would a black-stained epoxy be suitable for filling the fret dot holes instead of the usual plastic dots? Just asking.
  17. Cherryburst
    (Yes, sealer is a given, I would definitely use that) But what if I pour just *a little* too much black-colored epoxy, and I get a slight crown in the groove that would need to be sanded down... would the dried epoxy be substantially harder than the wood around it, and require some rigorous sanding?
  18. Cherryburst
    How about a wood filler with some stain mixed in? If so, would it be preferable to use a water/latex based filler like the Behlen Wood-Fil that Stewmac sells (Elmers and Minwax filler are also water/latex based) Or a solvent based filler (w stain mixed in) like Plastic Wood?
  19. Cherryburst
    Suppose I have a finished maple headstock. I take my router and do some kind of inscription/logo/pinstripe. The router bit is about 1/10" wide and going about 1/10" deep or so. What type of black wood filler would anyone recommend to fill in this? (essentially a thin routed channel) Something that will go in, and then can be "wiped" mostly smooth while still wet... and then lightly sanded later... and then another coat of finish applied... so that the inscription/logo is flush w the maple around it? What black wood filler would anyone recommend? (or a regular filler that could be mixed w a black stain before applying?)
  20. Cherryburst
    Thanks guys - yes, I meant the plastic binding nibs. The blocks make sense. Is this the scraper you meant? And would I use it first before the blocks? http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/item/0654 (and thanks also for the heads-up on that less expensive fret tang tool too)
  21. Cherryburst
    I have an 80's era LP which has already been modded, so I'm not too interested in keeping it bone-stock. I'm thinking of a DIY refret with the fret-edges over the binding. No nibs. What tool is recommended for removing the nibs on the binding? Some kind of fine-grit flat-file? Dremel?
  22. Cherryburst
    You say this is your own design correct? Well, you neck and or heel can easily and likely be in different proportions than a strat and your scale will be off. Just the shape of the body. The neck will be from Warmoth (std Strat size). Maybe I should have mentioned that in the first place?
  23. Cherryburst
    There isn't any template like that because the distance of concern is from the face of the nut to the saddle of the bridge. You can't set the distance from the bridge to the neck and then adjust the fretboard on the neck to get your scale right I don't see why not. When Fender makes a Strat, they place the neck pocket and trem route in the exact same place every time. As long as you're using a std 25.5" scale, they'll always be in the same place. I don't see why no-one makes a routing template like that.
  24. Cherryburst
    Thanks, but the body shape doesn't matter - I'm not replicating a Strat, it's my own design (sorta like an Explorer) but I need the exact strat pocket/trem routings so that the neck and bridge are the proper distance apart and line up perfectly. Does anyone make a template like that? Or can the stewmac one be glued together?
  25. Cherryburst
    Stewmac sells a template for Strat style trem routing here: as well as a neck pocket template here: But does anyone sell a combined template? I'm interested in not only getting those 2 routings correct, but getting the distances between them exactly right too. If a template like that is not available anywhere, Is there some way to combine/glue those 2 templates together? (to have them the correct distance apart)
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