Keegan

Anything specific you're looking for? I have a bunch of misc stuff I'm not using.

Yeah, some kind of DPST leaf switch.

Oh. The guitar tab program I use is set to E3 by default, which is 165. Odd. I assumed it was to the correct pitch. I guess they just moved it up so it'd fit on the staff more nicely.

Found another source that says it's E2(82) for guitar and E1(41) for bass.

Whoops.

Sorry, didn't realize cutting bass was different. That makes sense now though. You're allowing the higher frequencies to pass while reducing the volume of anything that can't go through the cap.

So yeah, you might want to put 2 or 3 .001uF caps in.

Are we talking about a bass or a guitar? I'm so confused. 100Hz is recommended bass cut for guitars and 50Hz for bass http://www.recordingwebsite.com/articles/eqfreq.php

Could you simply put some tape on the pins on the other side to hold them in place?

I'd try around 70-80Hz, you could get that just by adding another .001uF in parallel. You may even need to go lower and use a third .001uF cap for about 50Hz, but I doubt it.

edit: btw, .001uF and 1Mohm is 159Hz. And how is 4th string 2nd fret an E? Isn't that an F? Or do you mean on guitar? In that case it'd be 330Hz at that fret, 165Hz at the 6th string open E. Lowest note on a bass is 82.5Hz, but the Q of a filter like this is probably pretty big so I think 80Hz or possibly even lower would work.

edit 2: Wait, by the diagram it looks like you have it wired as a volume knob with a treble pass, not a tone knob.

Volume:

It should be wired like this, in parallel with the output, not in series:

No. That's just what I'd go with out of the choices you gave. The YJMs wouldn't have enough output to keep up with a humbucker. Plus p-90 construction sounds better in my opinion(more aggressive, better for rhythm) and won't pull on the strings as much as the YJM would.

edit: And they'll balance with the 500k pots better since they'll be more bassy/middy.

I'd use two SDS-1s and wire them to 500k pots and have the JB in the bridge.

How big is that thing? O.o

Just a few diagrams I made for on/on/on DPDT switches. Let me know if there's anything wrong with them.

edit: The color code is for Seymour Duncan humbuckers, btw

I've seen hardware that was called "brass" even though it was just copper-plated zinc, not actually a copper-zinc alloy.

Is this maybe what you're seeing?

In any case, I doubt the core is really steel but rather zinc or nickel.

You could make your own non-angled bridge, or just use a strat hardtail and route it out non-angled.

Oh, that's a shadow. I thought there was a dark grain in the wood in the shape of a Fender "F". That was freaking me out.

Well I guess if you have locking tuners you could swap out strings to play drop tuned.

Or just deal with the floppiness of 10s

Drop C and B are so low that you probably need another guitar for that with Ernie Ball Not Even Slinkys on it.

Without knowing anything about your guitar or what you like, I'd recommend Everly B-52 heavy-bottom 9s.

If you like em heavier, 10 or the heavy-bottom 10s should be plenty. I used the 11s but only cause I down-tuned to Eb and needed the extra tension/treble.

They're great for metal/rock because they're punchier than normal strings. They're like a more aggressive set of nickel-plated steel strings.

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/pro...brid?sku=106028

Depends, what scale length and what tuning?

Also, what are you using now and what's wrong with them specifically?

I vote the first body. The second is too big and pointy.

Gibsons have a different color code than seymour duncans, but I don't think not having it in humbucking would make so much noise.

Have you checked your ground connections with a multimeter? Perhaps you don't have all of them soldered correctly this time.

Ah, it's probably just the cheap radioshack PVC I have. Yeah...it says 180 degrees Fahrenheit on it.

Whoops, I assumed it was all the same.

I use a spool of wire I bought at Radio Shack. Its pretty sweet.

That too. And since it came with green I can throw that in there just to confuse myself when I open it up later.

More bass since the bass side is further away from the bridge. You could do the same with the other pickups if you felt like it. It's not really necessary, just keeps the bridge from being too thin-sounding. You could angle the neck the opposite direction for less bass in that position.

Not really. You'd need a preamp and it's going to sound like crap most likely.

You'd really be better off with a kit, PCB, or just buying an amp.

Harder? You don't need to screw around with stripping the wire and it doesn't melt like PVC. Plus it's more flexible. And the cost difference is insignificant for a guitar. You're only using like a foot of wire.

Why not just make the whole neck out of bamboo laminate?

Not necessary and might make it impossible to get enough relief(though not likely), especially on a Maple neck.

You might use them in a non-maple, baritone, or super thin neck.