Keegan

Are you asking if a normal humbucker will fit or if it's advisable to use a guitar humbucker on a bass?

Not saying it wouldn't help. It's just a PITA. =P

Oops. I guess I'm stuck with the Schaller anyways. It sits the furthest away from the bridge pickup as any bridge and I still only have 1.5mm.

Next time I should measure that out beforehand instead of just following the plans.

O.o Definitely want to see a schematic for this. Either I don't know enough about electronics to understand how you could do this or you're full of it.

Well if you have the caps their in the rectifier circuit, it cuts the power, to the RMS voltage, and say you have a 5Vp at the diode, you would now be producing a 3.535 Vrms DC voltage after the capacitors, so in theory, I'm not disobeying the laws of Physics, and in fact all I'm doing is increasing the amperage with all the parallel circuits. And I'm redirecting that amperage back into the main line through a few transistors or in the case that I'm finding out, an op-amp.

The point is that you can only get out what you put in. All of the power(well, actually less because some is lost to heat) going into the circuit will equal the power coming out of it. There can't be a net gain or loss(excluding loss to heat). If you gain amperage, it's because you lost voltage, and vice versa.

You don't increase amperage with parallel circuits anyways. The current is divided equally among them, including your original circuit.

You might get it sound different, definitely not louder though.

Yes.

You're having problems getting a clean enough tone out of a solid state amp with active pickups? Maybe it's your ears that need cleaning

Let us know how defying the law of conservation of energy goes for you. The signal is going to want to fall to ground and work has to be done to raise it above ground. In batteries a chemical reaction generates this work. In a passive circuit the mechanical energy of your arm is converted through the inductance of the pickups into electrical potential and you get sound.

So if you're talking about more output you either need batteries to push your signal to a higher voltage or more electromagnetic/mechanical energy(strumming harder, using stronger magnets, using more turns of wire).

Looks like a good guitar for the Kahler. Did you find specs on it? I'm curious if it'll fit my guitar.

Hmm, that sounds like it could be bad.

I was just curious. I might consider it for something else.

What's the difference in weight between the kahler and schaller? The kahler looks like it weighs a ton.

The string thing doesn't seem so bad, you could just put a cloth down when changing the strings.

Oh, and there's also this http://guitarworks.thestrandbergs.com/products/

The gold is more of an orange though, and it requires some routing.

Oh, you're talking about finishing.

Probably this http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/vintagecream.html

I'm going to use a schaller top-loading on my current build. I'll let you know how it goes. I like it because the string spacing is adjustable, the intonation range is huge, and you only have to drill 3 holes. Plus since one of the holes is right in the center, you can place it a lot easier. It looks comfortable for palm-muting too. Plus it's the lowest cost aside from the cheap-ass chinese one.

Warmoth sells it for the cheapest I believe, only $78.

Designing and implemeting the electronics. I like figuring out what sounds I want and building a circuit for it. Choosing pickups is a bitch though, but I try to stay clear of the common combinations and choose something interesting without losing my mind over it.

Other than that the entire design process is fun. I can't say I really enjoyed the actual building, but I might have if we had the tools to do it properly.

Btw if any of you guys need a wiring harness done, schematics that you can't find anywhere else, or ideas for control layout I'd be happy to do it.

I've always enjoyed soldering.

It's those rosin fumes, they're addicting.

Yeah, vintage white is definitely darker than that.

Off-white might be a little lighter. You probably want aged white or parchment.

Here's aged white by Lindy Fralin:

Here's vintage white from a Duncan Antiquity:

Here's cream from Warmoth:

I particularly like coffee-dyed white, but it only works on pickup covers. Here's what it looked like on my strat:

As you can see, aged white and coffee-dyed are the closest. Coffee-dying makes them look dirtier and old though.

I'm not sure about a neck, but you could smoke up some tasty meat with it.

If you're itching to use it, try it for a fretboard or top cap.

Parallel won't do anything to the sound, series will do a little bit, but it seems kind of silly to go to 18v just to burn through twice as many batteries. If you're happy with the fresh 9v sound, you could put 2 in parallel and use lithium batteries for the longest possible battery life.

I think 18V would just add more attack, since the higher voltage is just going to make the peaks more abrupt.

What sort of set-up are you using for your amp and pedals? You may be able to get what you're looking for just by getting new tubes or something. Especially if you have EL34 tubes, you could try a 6L6 or 6V6 for more clean headroom.

There's also this http://www.precisionmusictech.com/xbat.htm You'd have to contact them about the availability of the 18v version though, I haven't seen any. GuitarElectronics just has the 9V, and if you ran that with a battery also in your guitar it would be 18V, but it might blow the circuits in the X-Bat(I tried putting 18V in it and it fried the fault protection, giving me a nasty popping sound when the battery got put on the hot signal output when plugging in and unplugging, it still worked fine other than that though).

1. They come with everything, except the selector switch. You might need some wire too.

2. I think if you buy them in person at a dealer you can request the long-shafted pots, not sure on this though. If not, you can get them for like $15 extra for all 4. Or if you get the 81/85 set it comes with the long pots.

3. They come already wired for that, plus they include a wiring diagram which is also available on their website under the technical information for the specific pickup.

Good choice. Are you aiming to copy the Pensa-Suhr or just using it as inspiration?

If you wire batteries in series, taking one out will cut both of them out of the circuit. If your guitar worked with just one battery, you only had it in parallel.

Only the vibrating length of the string has any effect on anything. The bridge is brighter because the higher harmonics have a larger relative amplitude on the string compared to the lower-order harmonics. In the neck position, the opposite is true.

If you could place a pickup anywhere along the string, it would go from the most trebly at the bridge to warmer as you approached the 12th fret, to brighter again as you went toward the nut.

Hmm, alright, I figured out an H-S schematic with the same switch (on-on-on) to get neck, single coil bridge, and bridge humbucking. Thanks for that idea.