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Spagbol

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Everything posted by Spagbol

  1. Most violins (bodies) are actually made out of Spruce (top) with Maple used for the back and sides. The reason Spruce is used is because it is strong along the grain but laterally flexible - the front or top of violins always has the grain going along the length instrument, enabling it to vibrate in the correct way. It's all to do with the way the body resonates and vibrates... which is very different for an electric violin. For an electric violin it's a totally different storey - You're slapping wads of paint onto the wood of an electric violin (as opposed to thin layer of varnish on acoustic violins), using a pickup for the sound amplification (and added colouring!), not relying on just the body of the instrument, plus with most electric violin designs, there's so little wood there to vibrate/resonate, you could use just about whatever wood you wanted (within reason!) and it wouldn't make a whole lot of difference to the *ahem* "tone" of the instrument. So with that in mind, the costs for the body/neck should be virtually nil cos you probably have enough wood lying round as leftovers from other projects to cover them that is more than adequate quality. If not, it's still not going to be much of an expense. Fingerboards need to be a hard wearing wood (on cheaper violins it's usually stained rosewood or boxwood or cheap ebony but on better quality instruments good quality ebony is used) and again won't be a noticeable expense if your making it yourself. Pots, knobs, jack and wiring should not come to much but added with the costs for pegs ($12), tailpiece ($10+), chinrest ($6+), Bridge ($4.50) and the pup ($130) will blow your budget (example prices just from stewmac). Plus unless your carving/machining skills are good, it will probably take alot more than $100 of your time to make the neck (if you want it like the one in the piccy - with a traditional scroll/peg box)... To be profitable, I would use high quality components, make sure the quality control is tight, use good/interesting/unique designs and aim for the mid-range (£500 ish) market. I think only mass produced stuff using machines that are already set up and marketing that's already in place can possibly compete to sell this kind of thing profitably in the budget market. Of course, that's only my opinion based on the "making-to-sell" mindset and I am in the UK - it could be a totally different scene in the USA?
  2. Nothing! I have it spare so just email me your address and I'll mail it to you. I'll try and get hold of v2.10 eeprom over next couple of weeks - if I'm successful I'll mail you that too :-)
  3. Congrats man, know you've been after one for a while... Fancy a free upgrade to a 2120?! The only physical difference between a 2112 and the 2120 is the Eeprom inside (and the colours of the panels etc). To upgrade to a 2120 you just need to replace the eeprom and change the 2 jumpers inside your 2112 to 256k when using the 2120 eeprom (or 64k for the 2112 eeprom). I have a 2120 and I upgraded the Eeprom to v2.10 software but I still have the 2120 v2.03 Eeprom that came with the unit. It's just a straight swap so if you want the chip, just let me know. The v2.10 Eeprom is kinda hard to get hold of in the UK (the distributors (Arbiter) don't know jack about the digitech line... I was told that all software updates were downloads and nobody ever heard of the units having eeproms! But get through to the right guy in spares and he knows exactly what you need) but if you want I can try and get you a v2.10 eeprom. They are a free update to 2120 owners but 2112 owners supposedly have to pay because it's a major update, not a minor one - the charge was US$75 in 2000 but it's now £100 RRP in the UK!!! ( see here or here ) Given I don't know what software revision yours is (look on the startup screen and let me know!) I can't tell you what you'd gain by inserting the 2120 v2.03 eeprom... but if you're running v1.03 (the last version for the 2112) then there's loads of updated stuff! What's new in the v2.10 eeprom over the v2.03? 5 new modules (Pedal Phaser, Reverse, Time Warp, Sampler, and Stereo Sampler), added 41 additional factory patches that came from the 2112 (so would include all the 2120 patches plus 41 of the ones that got chopped) and they fixed the speed of the dynamic modifiers, added the volume pedal update, and made the MIDI implementation better. If you just want the patches that are available in the latest 2120 update, download This but if you want the other benefits, you'll need to update the eeeprom.
  4. Spagbol

    Forums

    Bookmark - but then I have the main site bookmarked too. Just quicker to go direct than wait for another page to load and then find the linkl etc!
  5. By the way, how deep is the routing for the vine inlay? I once saw a photo of a set of Jem fretboards (not attached to necks) at the Hoshino factory and the tree of life inlay had been routed right through the fretboard. Is that how they actually are done or do you suppose they were prototypes or test fretboards? How deep do you do the inlay Jeremy?
  6. I have a reasonable scanner and would be willing to try and scan it in and can send you the resulting file if you want? If you want me to do that, bung me an email on divabanana@hotmail.com Bear in mind I'm in the UK and the mail service is shite (just ask Brian about a CD that was supposed to get to him about a month ago!) so don't know how long the photocopy would take to get to me.
  7. Wow, thanks for all this cool information Jeremy. Gabe... gagging for that template! Can you post a link to it when you've done?
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