El Dangerouso

I saw the diagram you linked to, but I am confused. Why would I need two? I am only looking to cut the volume of the neck some when the switch is in the middle. I figured I could wire the trim pot (again the trim pot would be in the cavity, set and forget) between the lug that the hot wire from the pickup comes into and the one that is the contact when the (three way lever) switch is in the middle. I am pretty sure this is what I'm looking for in form (not necessarily value), but I want to confirm the value. The 500k (matching my volume) seems to make sense, I guess I could use 250 or 100 depending on the tone I was looking for form that P/U in that position. http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDe...EARCH=&MPN=

Hello All, I'm wanting to affect the "mix" of the neck and bridge humbuckers in the middle position (more bridge, less neck). I have decided that the best move would be to wire up a trim pot internally, as I don't plan to change the mix once I've got it right. I would imagine this is a fairly common thing, but after a few searches, I haven't found this specific info on the forum. My question is this: What value pot should I use, and what are some good suppliers to get one from?

Wes, thanks for that last comment and the links for the sweep vids. I had a good time watching. I think old dude sweepmaster takes himself pretty seriously. He clearly has skills, but no smiles. I saw a vid like that with Joe Stump a while back, and he was cracking up after he finished. No real criticism for the sweepmaster, but just based on the Stump vid I half expected him to crack up when he was done.

Hey Wes, which vid is it with the cool sweep picking? It wasn't immediately obvious to me as I scrolled through. As to the speed of this guy, I see plenty of denegration going on. If speed isn't important to you, that's cool, plenty of good non-speedy guitar playing I've come across in my time, and I wouldn't ever say that something is boring OR bad simply because "it's not fast enough". On the same token, I prefer the speedy stuff, and this IS fast. Could his left hand keep up? Maybe, with enough practice, he probably would have done it if he could have right now on that video, but I think he was putting this out as a "whatcha got?" to other folks simply based on the right hand speed. All that being said, I'm impressed simply becuase it IS fast and I couldn't do it.

Makes total sense. That was more than awesome, thanks! I did already get the blend(through Allparts), so I'll have to go after a megaswitch. I really appreciate the time you invested in your answer. It was really thoughtful and helped tremendously. One last quick question; where would be the best place to find said three position "super switch". I can find the five position easily enough, but could not find a three position even with allparts. Might I be stuck with using a five position?

So... what kind of 3-way switch are we talking about? The Tele or the Gibson kind? Tele/blade

I've been thinking about rewiring my guitar with a three way switch blend pot combo. I've got two humbuckers. I'm sure everyone is thinking, well, just use the blend pot. Here is why I "can't" do it that way. I'm an old shredhead from the late eighties. I want the three way to slam to the neck pickup for some sweeping, and then slam back to the bridge for alternate picking stuff. If I'm playing with both pickups for some rhythm stuff, I want something other than the 50/50 blend of the middle position on the switch. I might want a little more bridge on this part, a little more neck on this one, etc. Could this be done, and how?

For me, at least at the moment, I'm prefering hum-hum: Bridge: Dimarzio Tone Zone Neck: Dimarzio Air Norton Master volume, tone with treble bleed, three way blade with blend knob in middle position I'd love to hear other folks flavors of the month/year. Let the games begin!

The 24.75" scale length means that your strings are at less tension to create the same pitch vs. a 25.5" scale guitar such as a Fender, Ibanez, etc. I would think it best to go on the heavier end of gauges mentioned. I think .11s should be fine. If you had a 25.5" scale length you might be okay with .10s.

I would suggest a Bogner Metropolis. 30 watt, built in reverb, and a 1x12 combo. The Schizo control will allow you to go from perfectly clean to pretty mean with multiple settings in between. Fairly expensive though.

Well, I'd be willing to pay a few bucks extra above and beyond the cost of Duncans/Dimarzios for something like a Miracle Man set. Why not just go buy a Miracle Man set then? They're more than a few bucks beyond Duncans/Dimazios. Cheapest I could find was in the $130 range. I would be willing to go say, $110/$115.

Wes, two things. One, get an ISP Decimator. It will solve all your noise problems. Nothing else works. The Prorack-G WILL work and you can keep the JSX. If you're not wanting to make that big of an investment in noise reduction, best tube gain pedal is the Vox Cooltron Bulldog. Plenty of gain if you're mixing it with the Mode 4. If you're going without the Mode 4, maybe a Rocktron Silver Dragon. Got one I'll sell you cheap if you think you might want to give it a shot. Ever thought about an Engl Powerball?

I know you're happy, and probably don't want to go through further gear gyrations at this point, but have you ever tried a Carvin V3? I've listened to the stuff on-line which is hardly telling, but it DID intrigue me. Carvin has their cool ten day trial deal. I don't know, seems worth a shot. I've got a Boss RV-3 or 5 sitting around unused. I can sell it pretty cheap. It's in good, but not perfect shape and, obviously, works perfectly, or I wouldn't even mention it. I'll PM when I get home tonight and check it out. Have the instruction booklet and the whole deal.

Sad development; I'm sure he made the move mostly for cash. He is really the only worthwhile player the Eagles have. Some year, after rugby catches on in America (sadly, after the girlie sport of soccer will catch on it seems) we might even get to a world cup semi.

Right, but no overdrive/distortion. If I wanted to create a two guitar player situation (play a overdriven/distorted riff and loop it, while I solo over the top) I'd be hosed. I think I've solved this, anyway. I don't think I can hurt the looper with the signal coming out of the Intellifex, and I can even out levels and amp things up with the MX400 mixer from Behringer. It should be perfect. Thanks for taking the time to throw out your ideas. They definitely got me thinking with some different approaches to solving this problem. I have one more question for you. Does Dan Lyle still play for Bath?

I guess a picture is worth 1000 words. Here is the setup. The guitar inputs to the decimator and outputs to the input on the preamp. It has a second set of in and out that goes to one of the two effects loops on the preamp. Preamp stereo or mono out to Intellifex. The Intellifex has stereo out. Left would be direct to the poweramp, right to the headrush. I want to be able to record preamped and effected (with Intellifex). In your example it would record guitar dry, and play only through the effects; making it only possible to have clean tones looped. I was looked to do clean and dirty rythm and then play lead over the top. I want the loop to play back without any extra processing. My real quesion is, do I need to preamp the headrush or will it pump out enough level, and do I need to do something to the signal coming from the Intellifex to keep it from damaging the Headrush?

....or worse.......much, much worse.

Here is what I want to be able to do. I want to be able to record a pre-amped, effected signal, and play it back as is while I play along in real time with a different signal. E.g. record a clean, chorused and delayed part and play over it with an overdriven lead tone. Here is what I have: ISP Decimator(noise reduction)-->Preamp (with parallel and serial effects loops, one of which must be used by the Decimator)-->Roctron Intellifex(stereo in and out)-->Randall RT2/50 Power amp(one input)-->Weber MASS(not that this really matters in this case) The looping would be done on a pedal, in this case a Headrush E2. I'm assuming that I can come off the right side of the stereo out on the Intellifex, route it through the Headrush, and y it, along with the direct signal from the Intellifex, to a single input to the RT2/50. My really question is do I need to buffer/preamp the signal back to match levels? If so, what is the best way to go about doing that?

I agree, you will play best on whatever guitar feels best/you enjoy playing, but for the record, Buckethead's guitar is not a standard Les Paul. I read some article on him/it and it has either a 25.5 or 25 inch scale length. It looks normal on him because he is a huge guy, like 6'4" or maybe more.

I guess, as usual, I wasn't making myself clear. I was planning on getting the tubes from Mike at KCA, and then selling them on ebay if they didn't work out.

#1 Thanks fellas for the the replies. I appreciate the fact that you would take the time #2 I'm not trying to run down NOS or any brand. I wouldn't describe myself as a "tone geek" really, certainly not o the EJ scale, but I can pretty well hear the difference between power tubes in my above described scenarios. What I'm getting is that you will be able to hear a difference between brands in the above scenarios assuming your ears are good enough, and you're not exclusively running some metal chugga-chugga setup. #3 Which brand you like probably depends on the variables in the rest of the amp, and personal taste. Like all other things "tone" it's very subjective, and your opinion will almost invariably vary from the person next to you! #4 I think I'll give some a shot. I'll talk to Mike at KCA. Can't hurt, and there's still a market for them on ebay if they're not to my particular tone taste.

I know that, at least when an amp is cranked or the power section is being hit with a strong signal, EL34 will sound different from 6L6, etc. Here is my question: how much does branding in the tubes really play into the equation? I hear/see clowns talking or on boards and they say, "Oh, the tubes in the amp were BS, I changed them to RCA blackplates (insert any brand in where I put the RCA) and the amp is the bomb!" or something like, "Brother, don't buy anything but Mullard, they'll make your s**t crank." Okay, I am prepared to accept that some tubes might be poorly manufactured and, therefore, have less preformance, but I am not prepared to part with any money until I have a scientific/technical explaination that shows me that paying a premium for a particular brand will make an audible difference or, at least, a length of life difference. I figure, armed with a little true technical knowledge, I can make a smart buying decision via e-bay etc. or save myself some cash. psw, lovekraft, gorecki, other hidden geniuses?

I've used it both ways, actually. I have the 100w version. My first was with a Bogner Shiva 6L6 and I used it as a load box for DI recording. I went to an Engl Powerball and I used as an attenuator to bring me down to bedroom level and not blow my 2x10 cab. Originally, I had the Engl into a 4x12 without the Weber. My end evaluation is that it is probably best as a load box for DI. However, tone is a subjective thing. I might say "that sounds awesome" and someone else would say "that's pretty rough." I think maybe just the specific way that the cab and the Weber react isn't completely to my liking. As a DI box, it worked great. It just simulated a cab without having to interact. One thing to note. If your amp is rated at 100w, Weber says that's clear power, so on dirty channels it may be putting out as much as 150w. Make sure your load box is rated properly.

I'm pretty happy with my Weber MASS. Could be a possibility for your load. Palmer has to be the best, but you might pay as much for that as you did for your amp!

Brian Moore C-55P. Looks great, full of innovations (curve top, acoustic trem, output jack on the back) and plays great. Love the twin humbucker setup. Standard is Duncan Custom in the bridge and Duncan Alnico II Pro in the neck. Great quilt top, sunburst finish. Time to go play, I'm all worked up!