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Everything posted by Metallion

  1. I saw http://www.customluthier.com/ Looked good. Alas works no more.
  2. Have any of you got a U100 fretboard (Ebony, 10" r?) made by a custom fretboard maker /inlay artist? Or experience of a competent custom FB/inlay maker that could do complex inlays good. Looking for someone pro that can make a FB with the elliptic pearloid inlays proper as of the U100. http://medias.audiofanzine.com/images/normal/aria-guitars-u100-585830.jpg
  3. If anyone has a Cirrus - Also looking for the knob placement on a 6-string... A: C-C low-eq to hi-eq B: C-C vol to mix C: C-C vol to low-eq D: C-C vol to mid-eq E: C-C mix to mid-eq F: C-C lo-eq to mid-eq G: C-C mid-eq to hi-eq H: C-C low-eq to mix I: C-Vol to edge of 24th fret ...and back cavities dimensions: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231770&d=1318531451
  4. New Topic: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=45576 It's Very Old so humidity won't affect it either way on this issue. Maybe I'll try the superglue.
  5. I have some frets on a old Brand-name Classic neck that is protruding, bending up perpendicular to the fretboard surface, on the sides of the FB - flat in middle. You can press the fret-ends down by hand, about 0.5-1 mm, but as soon as you let go they rise again. The guitar is really Old, so humidity has no short time passing affect on this, either way. More like Metal fatigue, plastically getting back to it's original shape. I was thinking of applying some wood glue at the sides while pressing down for setting, but then you have to make sure that the (new) Fretboard-flat position of t
  6. I have some frets on a Classic neck that is protruding, bending up, on the sides of the FB - flat in middle. You can press the fret-ends down by hand but as soon as you let go they rise again. I was thinking of applying some wood glue at the sides while pressing down for setting, but then you have to make sure that the (new) Fretboard-flat position of the fret won't be out of line and causing fretbuzz and whatever. Has Anyone done it?
  7. Looking for a r 2.5mm Profiling Router Bit for making the radius on the JEM body edges. http://static.keebali.com/jemsite.com/jem/origin/jem777_blueprint.jpg Where can you get them?
  8. Anyone know from what show this was recorded? Yngwie Malmsteen Plays Flight of the Bumblebee http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70APtQuc31E Seems noone knows on Youtube. Is the whole concert recording available somewhere? (right forum?)
  9. Get som Flat Fret press pieces [stewmac] and press where obvious. Place it over 3-4 frets and where rocking, press. More accurate work than that needs sufficient equipment... Or do you mean on the SIDE of the FB?
  10. Building from pictures, ain't got no access to a Cirrus.
  11. I'm getting it as close as possible to the Cirrus. Peavey won't reveal the extent or measurements of the "Graphite reinforcements". http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/...206%20Maple.cfm It's Walnut - WN/maple/walnut/maple/WN - neck. See Images on any 6-str Cirrus. 5: 6:
  12. How much Carbon rods, Graphite rods, should be needed for this neck? 2 Gr rods, 1 on each side of the 2-way TR x what length? and x what av. area, circular, rectangular or square?
  13. The 6100 available are 18% nickel/silver hard alloy. Equal to the Allparts?
  14. There are some builders who prefers Stewmacs Fretwire to Dunlop's (6100 etc). They claim it's a harder, more durable fretwire. But why does Fender and Ibanez have Dunlop as standard fretwire on their originals? Sound? A subjective taste and not a "Better" model answer maybe.
  15. Steve Vai's EVO guitar had a similar crack in the body. Anyone knows how that got fixed? http://www.guitarwa.com/jtsb/dssb/200604/997.html Heard about "vacuum" glue inserting - no home fix.
  16. Where is the optimal position for the end of the Trussrod on a neck-through? Last fret?
  17. Top img of plank with contour-outline of right piece + expected crack orientation. Bottom pic of cut piece, crack still visible - chip upper left corner from crack (went through) - "side" surface to be glued to maple. 5cm thick WN piece, so bottom or top is cut 1cm.
  18. Having some Walnut for a bass body, Cirrus style. The outermost right walnut bodypart - surface to be glued to maple, se http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/...06%20Walnut.cfm - have a diagonal crack from top down towards the bottom, going about 2cm in at top and surfacing at the bottom (gluing surface). The crack is a hairline and doesn't really facilitate any real glue to ooze in. The issue is sound affecting and any possibility of the crack extending (from use). I knew it had a crack in the plank but cut it out to see the extent of the damage. Is such pieces useful or jus
  19. Allied Lutherie - "Sorry, we only offer truss rods from our ready made stock. Todd"
  20. Body starts at about 24th fret, 667mm from nut. http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/...06%20Walnut.cfm Buter I got mine from Thomann. They certainly look and feel of good quality, won't be able to tell you how they perform in action for another couple of weeks. What lenght is it? Can't find any long ones there.
  21. Looking for a Dual-action truss rod for a Peavey Cirrus style Bass through-neck 6-string 35". I expect a 700-710mm one to be needed. Thought LMII would have some but didn't. Where can you get one, delivered to/in EU?
  22. What it s the body edge curvature radius on a Peavey Cirrus Bass? Also looking for the head angle of the Cirrus.
  23. Got no Pau Ferro for a 6str Bass 35" ? Not available in the Calculation file.
  24. There is no Seller in Sweden I know of that sells Rosewood for just double that of Walnut, it costs 5 to 11 times as much!! Walnut: ca 2500 Euro/m3 (local dealer), Pallisander: 11110 Euro/m3 (Fanerkompaniet AB), Eastindian Rosewood: 24300 Euro/m3 (Holm AB) So it's not just a couple of dollars more! "Just a small amount of Wood..." No Wood Dealer in Sweden sells less than a Whole Plank, 2-3 metres.
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