stringkilla

Ignoring the obvious nut change are there any other major issues with using a left hand neck on a right hand body? So hard to find a reverse head strat neck. Any ideas?

So, I can then assume, it is authentic and just one of many iterations.? If I replace all the gold hardware what could it be worth, almost 50 yrs old now.

O.K. So where has it been put? What is it's new sub forum location?

Not sure if this is the right place for this but. I have owned my SG Custom White guitar since 1967 and in all my travels and gigs as a band member I have never seen one like it. Now, I've always wondered about this issue but never before pursued it. The biggest difference is in the black surround for the three pickups, mine doesn't have it, and I have never seen another like it. Did I get screwed with buying a second when I originally purchased it? Does anyone know anything about this? I made some awful mistakes to mine by devaluing it with squiggles made with an electric Black and Decker engraver pen. Remember those, it was stupid and ruined any real value.

This drop is a companion to my post for body blank, but is good alone. It is pre cut in the PRS style but could be used in a double cut or LP style body. Seasoned for a good eight years here in New England in dry storage in my closet of goodies. It is the last one I have and is a one of. Asking price for this is, $35.00 + shh. If by chance you buy it with the Mahogany Body we can make a deal as a bundled price and keep shipping costs down. PM me with questions or offers.

This blank is well seasoned at 15 years dry and stable storage. It is, factory radio frequency finger glued, quarter sawed, Honduras Mahogany. A full two inches thick with one rough side. Suitable for right or left hand, chambered or solid construction and perfect for drop topping. I have two on hand at a ridiculously low price of just $75.00 + shipping. PM me with all inquires or offers.

No photos exist, and I have the original neck plate from it, with number stamped in. But, I have been forbidden from selling them by my children, they seem to think I should leave the pups to them as some kind of legacy. But again, yes it was an original 1967 edition and not a re issue, of a tobacco burst Strat. I got luck when I bought it in 1970 for a cool $75.00 at a music store inventory reduction sale.They are still soldered together but not to the pots and are numbered. I guess I will have to be keeping them or my kids will dissown me. This is one reason that I confess, I have done a most vile and despicable act that can not be reversed.

I got this set of super clean 1967 Strat pickups, all three direct from the guitar, I even have the original pots, cap, and some other stuff from the same guitar, and I am wondering what they are worth. Just an estimate before I get crazy and ask too much for them and never get them sold. So what would they go for?

O.K. I also have the same electronic issue mentioned here, but there is a caviet. It has happened to a guitar, my Shecter Diamond, that has never been opened. I have used various cable types and it still is there. And to add to the mystery, it started to happen with my two year old Tele that, also has never been opened. ***???

As an accomplished woodworker I'd say one of the major issues will be, how to maintain it's pliability throught the process. I have done plenty of veneering in my life but all flat work. Most curved or circular work is done in multiple pieces and species so surface forming is not an issue. I too look forward to seeing how you've solved this issue.

Not sure if this is the right place for this. It's realy a stupid question. I have a Fender FM212 Front Man about eight or nine years old, but that is of no real issue. On the control panel there are these two inputs, one is marked PRE OUT and the other, PWR IN. The manual says they can be used for effects device in this way. " Connect pre out to an effects device input, then connect the effects devise output to PWR IN". It goes on to describe how to connect multiple amps and recording or reinforcment. What is concidered an effects device and what will this option do for me?. Does this mean I can say, plug in my wha pedal and use it connected to the amp insted of connecting it in the normal way, guitar to pedal pedal to amp. What is concidered reinforcement??. I don't use it much anymore and I never used it on stage during a performance. Comments????? I used an old Sunn Sceptre, 4 12's and an exrtra 2, 12's

O.K. My reason for this question is that I am very hesitant to drill holes in a very expensive guitar just so I can have a whammy bar. I am partial to Bigsby's but don't want to put up with the inherent detuning effects of dive bombing all over the universe. Maybe my next idea might work. Until next time..........

Does the locking mechanism have to be screwed to the headstock, or can it float with the strings. Not a locking nut mind you , but I have an idea for a decorative piece that I could use as a string locking device, comments

Visual inspection is O.K. All strings break the nut equally. Yes I first tun with open strings and a Korg Mini Tuner. So, I was doing it correctly then. What if it takes too long to get it even close?. How to do it with success is the trick I'm looking for .

O.K. I get the part, if it's sharp, or flat move towards or away from the neck, but. Here's my issue. Once I get the tuning correct with open strings, and find that at the octave it's not correct, and, I move the saddle to compensate the open string is out of tune. What am I doing wrong?. My biggest issues are with my G string, it's never been right. HELP!!!

All good advice. Last post was the correct one. So instead of grinding I may use a shorter set screw with cup points for extra grabbing stability

What if I put a .015 shim under the bridge plate. Will this action compromise the intonation or action set up?. My aim is to not have to the adjustment screws on the saddles all the way up so they look like insect legs, long and spindly. Any comments on this idea?.

Has anyone seen the news snippet about Gibson having issues with the Feds. Seems the Government thinks they are violating the law by having American workers complete work on fingerboard from Madagascar and India. They say that because the fret boards are sawn lumber, it somehow is against the law, and, that their troubles would go away if they let the foreigners do it. Now I ask you, how can this country stimulate a jobs program when the Fed constantly interferes with it's silly need to control all capitolistic endevours under it's thumb. It's Gibson man, this really hits home boys, let's make some real noise!!

So, I will assume, that my impressions and theories are correct. I say this because, I think that what I thought was logical. Now there's a statement that is out there, LOL!! Thank you it helps a great deal.

If a Strat body is supposed to be a flatish surface, and, the neck should then be parallel, setting the bridge saddle height even with the frets should be OK, right. In my theoretical scenario, when the strings are put on in the nut slots, the strings, will be at the optimal height for good action. The string do not set down very deep into the slots and this should work without any string buzz right?. Set me straight here, I'm just trying to properly set the the saddle height for good results. And is this theory the same for all bolt on Strat style guitars?.

OK, I will not take off the neck just bag the body and I will not loosen the neck, don't want to change its set. Just do a little leveling. Thanks fellas

What I had in mind was, to add the vinyl as a sort of wrap around. I mean to tuck it under the fretboard, so there is no discernible edge. Maybe under the binding should there be some, ala Gibson style binding technique. How would heavy duty sign quality vinyl work. I would have done this before but my source for the material dried up. This guitar would see minimum ply over a very long life, not played as a main axe. So it is a bolt on Fender style neck, I should take it off the body. What about the truss rod, loosen or not?.

Here is the idea behind this post. Hypothetical Scenario one; I got a neck that need some leveling. Do I just take off the strings and level, or, do I have to loosen it first? Scenario two; If I should, build a new neck, for some other project and, I want a super smooth surface on the backside can I, affix a vinyl covering to it. The idea being I woudn't have to fuss with spraying it. I have this vision that I could have an image of a human spine printed on the vinyl and then put it on the neck. Any comments will be welcome.

Dude, that is almost, 99.9% what I was after. I especialy like the last one. It sounds like you were using a whaa pedal also, great choice for coloring the sound by the way. When can I see a detailed schematic?????

Well, what I mean is, since I've been a member it seems the majority of posts are about paint and their related equipment types and so forth. We've seen the great work done with inlays and techniques used, but there is not enough of them. I think we should consider a separate forum just for inlays alone. We have some very good artists working in this area lets give them equal space with the painters. What do you say?.